kgg

It is basically a straight drop in. All you have to do is adjust the needle bar up a small amount by loosening the screw at the top of the needle bar. Move the needle bar clamp up by the same amount as the difference in length the new 135x 16 are longer. If I remember it is just under 1/4" that you move the bar up. Note also the original needles have a flat side at the top of the needle where as the 135x16 have a completely round shank. So when you put it in make sure you line it up properly. I think you need more tension on your top thread to haul the bobbin thread further into the leather. Yes Adjust the downward pressure on your pressor foot. It is adjusted by loosening the nut on the funny bolt with the two springs attached that is closest to the head (seated in the frame). The other normal looking bolt is for adjusting the stitch length. If your pressor foot is leaving marks loosen the nut, if it is not moving the leather along tighten the nut in to haul the springs down. kgg

The ones that come with the machine I think are HAx1 needles which can be purchased up to size 22. Size 22 needles are good for V138 max. This will depend on how thick and tough the leather is. If you change the needle to a standard industrial 135x16 you will get better needles and a better selection of sizes. Does that mean the long groove is on the left. Which would be correct. When you have the bobbin threaded properly in the hook assembly. 1. As you pull on the thread with the bobbin facing you it should rotate the bobbin counter clockwise. 2. Hold the end of the thread coming out of the assembly with one hand and with the whole threaded assembly rested in the pam of the other hand. Try and lift the assembly off your pam. If thread just pulls out freely and the assembly doesn't lift off your hand tighten the tension spring screw in by 1/8 of a turn. Try again until you can lift the assembly off your hand and suspend it. The thread should unwind from the bobbin slightly if you give it a gentle, gentle upward jerk. What you are going to find is these little machines can do a nice stitch but you are going to spend a lot of time tinkering with it to get to that stage. Once you figure what size of thread / needle size is best for your needs and setup, leave it. I think they are fun little machines and a great way to get started on a budget in the one arm bandit machines. Funny thing through is I still have mine but sold the Consew 223 cylinder (not heavy enough, small bobbin) and Pfaff 1245 (too finicky) is for sale. Best of luck, kgg

A couple additional ideas. Do you have the long groove on the side the thread enters the needle? How full is your bobbin? I like to keep all my bobbins in the 80 percent range. I would step back and do a process of elimination. Check thread path, correct needle size (V207 size 23 /24 needle), needle installed all the way, positioned correctly and do the bobbin drop test to see if tension is correct for the thread size (to little and bobbin falls to floor , to tight the bobbin will not allow thread to come off bobbin). Try using some V69 thread on the top and bobbin just to see if it would pickup and lock the stitches properly. Then re-thread the top with V207 and see that works. If that works the problem is in the bobbin. There may not be enough head space in the bobbin area to clear V207 properly, incorrect tension in the bobbin tension spring, bobbin hook assembly incorrectly thread. Large threads need to be threaded through the holes farthest away from the hook and under the spring also the bobbin when you pull on the thread rotates counter clock wise. Personally I don't know how you got V207 thread through the eye of needle if it was the one that came with the machine. I would suggest about thinking of changing the size of the needle to a standard 135x16 needle, which is a simple process and needles are easy to find. kgg

I looked at your video. I have a couple of comments. When you bring down the needle to pick up the bobbin thread you should have held the end of the top thread and pulled the bobbin thread up through the hole once the needle had cleared the bobbin cover before attempting to bring the needle back down again. Also what size of thread are you using? Is the thread matched to the correct needle size? kgg

Maybe applying a bit of heat using a soldering iron or hair dryer may help to loosen the screws. Also maybe try a poor mans ratchet, vise grips on a screwdriver as close as possible to the screw head. While pushing straight down on the screwdriver with one hand and turn the vise grips with the other. Just a thought. kgg

I would first check https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1155862/Juki-Du-1181.html?page=6#manual of the Juki Du1181n Engineers manual. kgg

I do have a Juki DNU-1541S and am not quite sure what you are calling a "spring feed". A few photos of your spring feed and complete thread path would be very helpful in getting the problem sorted out. Also what size of thread and needle are you using. kgg

It is a drop feed machine used for high speed sewing of fabric. In my opinion it wouldn't be suitable for sewing anything expect light weight fabric. kgg

Thanks Constabulary, It is a nice trick to stop the fraying of the binding material and give that clean finish. If you want folded ends at both the beginning and ending of your binding run, where you have both ends of the binding run butted together rather then overlapped, you would fold the starting end of the binding in as well. kgg

Exposed raw edges like that of the top edge on a tote should be either folded over and sewn or edged with binding / edging material to prevent fraying. All lot has to do with your design things like is the inside of the tote being lined or not lined. To do binding you have a choice of either using raw edge or double fold binders. Binders come in a lot of sizes based on what size of binding material you are planning on using, which can be either be purchased as raw edge or double folded in small lengths or larger flat coils. Small lengths can be fairly easily man handled but if you are planning on doing any amount you will need something to control the amount being spooled off and to support the coil. I would check with Cobra and see what they recommend as the changes needed to the throat to accommodate binding attachments. If I am doing small / large runs of binding I have my own attachments that allow me to use inexpensive flatbed folders/ binders on my cylinder machine which is a class 341 clone. That way I don't have to make mechanical changes to the machine to do binding and I am able to use the folders/ binders on all my machines.

Simple way would be to determine the no load stitch length by 1. removing thread from needle and doing a foot long seam in a piece of ordinary paper. 2. count the number of stitches it punched in a 1 inch section at different locations in the seam. As sometimes stitch consistency can vary with worn parts. 3. without removing the piece of paper, do a reverse stitch or a inch or so at the end of the seam. The needle should go backwards into the same holes the forward stitch made. If not it maybe because of worn parts or being a bit out of adjustment. kgg

Whatever the limitations are for the Singer 29k class of patchers the Chinese patcher is even more restricted. The fit and finish are typically poor at best. kgg

If you mean the cheap Chinese patcher, which I do have one myself and not the real Singer 29K. They are a tinkers delight. It is fairly easy to change the needle to a 135 X16 industrial needle which does open up the selection of thread you can use. The drawn back is always going to be the size and capacity of the bobbin. The bobbin is really small. Some people have made major changes and some have had good success but it definitely would not be my first choice in the one arm bandit class of machines. kgg

My first guess is the feed dog is to high and banging the pressor foot. I would first download the Juki Du1181n manual and compare the height of your feed dog to that of the Juki 118. If it is out of spec it is a simple adjustment outlined on page 27. kgg

Excellent advice. kgg

Yes, should you need the extra torque and speed reduction gained by adding a speed reducer it is fairly easily added later to any industrial sewing machine. For what you are sewing I would take a wait and see approach. Great if you need one otherwise it is just a nice attachment. You can also add a needle positioner later should you need one but be fore warned that some people have had problems ranging anywhere from difficult to not work properly when added to a machine with certain speed reducer configurations. Some people like the needle positioner and some not so much. I think the best machine that you listed is the Juki 1541 but I would advise you to buy a Juki DNU-1541"S" with the safety clutch. The others that you listed are various clones of various Juki machines. Another option maybe the Juki DU-1181N if you only really need a walking foot, others could advise you better on this. Some people say a needle feed machine may struggle when you have multiple layers of material in a seam, where as plain jane walking foot machine may not. There is no one machine that will cover all the bases. I have both of these machines as well as others myself. The way I have my Juki DNU-1541"S" setup it really hates anything under 3mm thick which is approximately equal to the thickness of 7 oz of leather. The Juki DU-1181N is quite happy doing things under 3mm. As for reliability both have never given me any problems other then the typical "USER" error stuff. The Juki DU-1181N was a fair bit cheaper then the Juki DNU-1541"S". I would advise you to look at the following videos which may help to do decide if a compound feed is your best option: Juki DNU-1541S Juki DU-1181N

You would get better advise if you gave us a better understanding as to majority of what you are planning on sewing (fabric / leather ), flat items like wallets or round items like bags and how thick. The flatbed machines you have listed maybe either to much / not enough machine or the wrong style (flatbed vs cylinder bed). Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Buying a used anything you really need to see and hear it in operation as Wiz has suggested. Which in this case is going to be impossible as you are 3000km away from that particular dealer in Toronto. Juki's tend to be costly on the used market. While Juki's privately owned do occasionally come available most have been used in an industrial/commercial setting. If you can find one from a dealer within a reasonable drive, in good shape and for about the same price, probably a little more, then a new clone I would choose the Juki over the clone. In your area they maybe as scarce as hens teeth. Probably not going find them as all the accessories in the photo are some of my designs and 3d printed. Slip on mini table (takes under 2 minutes to attach/ release), holders for scissors/needles/bobbins (at the top of the machine), bobbin holder (over the bed), the binding guides and binding tape platter, the accessories holder for needles / bobbins (to the right of the machine) and the 3 spool thread holder (at the rear of the machine) kgg

I wouldn't be to keen to do many bobbins of thread up at a time as they will develop a coil memory which if left to long may affect your stitch look. If you are doing a bunch of bobbins in different thread sizes colour code the bobbins with a permanent maker or a light dab of ladies nail polish (many colours to choose from) . Like pink marked bobbins are V69 thread, purple V92, black V138 you get the idea. kgg

I would also check out Japan Sewing Machine and Company who are also in Toronto. Their clones are called the "Kobe". Ask for Chris, great to deal with. I have purchased three new machines from him.Two flatbed machines, Juki 1541S, Juki 1181N and one cylinder bed machine a Kobe 1341. The casing on the JapanFuji seems a little rougher then the Kobe. They call theirs a LS-1341 but in reality it is 341 clone. I was pleasantly surprised as I went to buy a Juki LS-1341, decided to give the Kobe a try. The price was right and like yourself some of the other clones were in the ball park of a true Juki. If I don't like it after six months I'll sell it and get a true Juki LS-1341. So far it has handled everything I have thrown at it. It came with table, servo motor, both a knee lift and foot lift for raising the pressor foot as well as thread holder (which I never even took out of the box, I use my own). It can handle V138 top and bobbin out of the box but I think I could easily use 207 as the top thread. Some people like the needle positioner and others not so much, depends on what you need/like/want. a needle positioner can be installed later should you need/like/want one. For my needs I didn't need the speed reducer.Once again if you find that you need/like/want one it can easily be purchased and installed later. A nice thing is I can use and interchange bobbins between all three of those machines. I do recommend you get additional true Juki bobbins as they seem like they have much better manufacturing tolerances. In the picture I have it setup for binding with a mini 8" x 8" flatbed, which maybe a little difficult to see in the photo. Which ever machine you decide on all the best of luck. Stay Safe, kgg

I would call their customer service and say that if a tech doesn't call you back in the next 72 hours you will take them up on their 60 money back offer. kgg

I still think old iron is the best iron. The domestic plastic sewing machines with a 1000 different stitches are just consumer junk. How many of them are going to working in 10 years let alone a 100. kgg

Willbury in Ontario you are also facing another couple problems, certification and insurance. Nanny state anyone. 1. When you install equipment that is not CSA approved you will need your setup inspected by the Ontario electrical inspection authority and tagged before it is put into service unless you buy a certified setup from a CSA certified manufacturer. Forbid anything happens and it has not been inspected / tagged potentially you maybe left holding the bag. This in the past did created problems prior to the new trade agreement. If I am not mistaken now they have an agreement where CSA or UL certifications are recognized on both sides of the border. An example would have been as simple as buying say a electric stove across the border in the USA and you had a fire. The first thing the fire inspector would check was the nameplate for the CSA certification, no CSA certification your insurance probably would walk. 2. Count on installing a system that can handle at least twice the current of the three phase load rating. Which in turn means your operation cost to operate the clicker will increase. Depending on your location and setup you maybe better just off getting a 3 phase drop to your property. Some addition things to checkout, kgg

If you could do a video of the rear of the machine it may be more helpful as this would show what the rear drive rod is doing. It could be as simple as one of the bolt has come loose that tightens down to this shaft. kgg

Like the old adage, you get what you pay for. My experience is if the thread is going to be exposed to a lot of bleach, as in washing, and drying the bonded polyester thread will hold up much better. kgg