tsunkasapa

How did you know my first initial is E?

Same here. And if it is sold as 'Buffalo' that is what you will be getting. BISON is generally labeled as such. The only thing I can think of, that would be even close to what you are describing would be the Highlander leather that Tandy sold years ago. Chrome tan about as thick as saddle skirting. But they haven't offered it in about 8 years. If you were over here I would suggest brain tanned bison or moose.

I always use waxed thread, no matter the weight of leather. I HAVE unwaxed threads, but I wax them before use.

Not necessarily. It can have a firm to very firm hand. I have a couple sides as firm as any veg tan. You might look into 'milled' veg tan. It is tumbled as part of the process and gives it a softer hand.

Wet it from the back.

Very nice job. I've never done Bibles, but I did quite a few Boy Scout Handbooks back in the day.

Just wondering why you don't just buy the weight you need to start with?

Very nice!

Frankly, I wouldn't waste my money. In 40+ years I've never used one or felt the need for one. YMMV

I didn't see a single thing from ANY sales that excited me enough to spend any money. Not one.

And your leather was far too wet if the clamps left those marks.

He doesn't have a leg to stand on.

They will work, the single caps are just flat on the back. I don't use rivets very often. If a project is properly stitched I don't think they add anything.

Double caps are for applications where both sides will be seen, that's all.

3 guesses where we'll find the OTHER boot.

That's not anything I've ever given any thought to. I would say that you are the only one that sees it. Sometimes with LACING I will work from the middle both ways, but that is much more noticeable.

With soft and hard Arkansas stones and a good strop you should be able to get it where it will cut just fine. I strop my swivel knife blades on paperboard rather than on leather. It doesn't wear on the corners of the blade that way.

No, it shouldn't take much effort to cut. MOST blades are universal, there are some old ones I have that take a special blade. And you should GENERALLY be 1/3-1/2 the thickness of your leather. If one design element crosses another (think one vine crossing over another. Or Celtic knotwork) then you wouldn't want to cut so deep.

Doesn't look all that 'rusty' to me. Nice job.

Welcome, from the DRY side of the state.

Nice job! Looks very straight.

I'm a big fan of a plastic bag, kept in Tupperware.

Wet it well and mold it over something the size/shape you want the bump to look like.

I have used vinyl flooring in the past too.

You can try oxalic acid. 2 teaspoons to a pint of water.