JLSleather

Interesting question. Over at the blue gun store (one of them anyway) the pic shows the safety DOWN. On my model, the safety is UP. I don't know the reason for the difference. But, I know i had to CHECK mine, because i never actually gave it a thought. What are you molding that high on the weapon where that actually makes any difference?

Okay, one more then I don't oil formed holsters. I do oil tooled rigs - and pretty much everything else. Keep in mind then when I oil, it's almost like hold a bottle of oil in one hand, and TALK ABOUT oiling -- almost that lightly. I don't 'soak' anything.

OHHHHHHHHHHH! You meant BRIDLE (not bridal). When I saw guns n bridal, I thought we were getting a new version of "shotgun wedding" Still, the leather looks clean an purdy .. nicely done!

Red -- Did you modify the center foot of that machine? Wondering how you turn corners without that stupid dimple showing on the edge (from the contoured foot).

You SHOULD be able to dye white nylon thread. Long as it aint waxed. Lots of people doing it. And.. I would NOT use 138 for holsters. For a reinforcing panel or stitching in liner, it's probably fine, but then you'd want something heavier for the construction stitching anyway, and changing thread 'mid-stream" would be a big enough pain to make it not worth doing anyway. For holsters, a feller could git by with 207 - I wouldnt go any smaller that that.

Usually, I'm thinking "ENOUGH with the basket weave", but you pulled it off -- that basket weave 'thatch' looks GOOD

You might get away with 1/2" if your filler is the same thickness as the revolver.

You learned to put messages on a forum from your computer. Stitching leather is easier than that.

Aint never tried that one, though I guess I could. The 24's worked so well I didn't try anything else

Oh, yeah, I get it. Which machine you buy?

Uhh.. not sure what I did, but .. you're welcome

That's a good question. I was thinking I got these from Bob (toledo) but not on the receipt. Maybe some that she ordered.. we'll find out together!

It may turn out to be true that you were treated better by Steve. At this point, what do you feel he has done for you? I mean, since you haven't got the machine yet.

Doesn't seem to. I'm not the only one doing it, either. I could steer you to one guy's website of very nice looking holsters - who uses 277 with 24's - but I'll let him pipe in if he cares to.

Just like you set tensions, and check before you stick it in the high-dollar stuff.. don't hurt to throw a ruler on it if you've been moving things. This is purdy durn close ta 6/inch. You can see that the stitch line turns at 1 1/2", three more stitches (3 per 1/2") so it's consistent. Oh, that's 277 thread with a 24 needle.

6/inch should be fine. But either that first picture is SERIOUSLY misleading somehow, or yer measurin' stick is broke That LOOKS much smaller than a six. Keep in mind the type of needle can make it appear a bit different. Here's a pic, jus a piece o' scrap.. showing 6/inch. The natural thread is a needle with an LL point. The black thread is done with an 'LR' needle, WITHOUT changing the stitch length. Stick a ruler next to it, and get right at 6 / inch.

I'm with Ferg.. too many stitches / inch. About 5 - 6 is fine.. not much finer than that, especially with a needle that size. I use a 24 mostly (#23 for 207 thread).

Got 'er.. THANKS

Yeah, I see that was you 'n' me back then, too Couldn't remember why I didn't already buy the stinkin thing. Then saw teh 2-3 week wait time. Yeah, guess I gotta just get over that -- and wait. THANKS!

I don't know just what the question is -- but the toolin' is purdy

I know it was here, but now can't find it. SOMEBODY posted about a dummy for the Smith Wesson SD 9/40 VE. Somebody tell me who has that - and when I git the gun I'll draw the pattern and share it )

http://springfieldleather.com/36993/Pen%2CDyeliner%2CBroad-Tip/

Maybe these .. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/1249-04.aspx

Down in that neck o the woods, you aint too far from S-T Leather in St Louis. I've never used their carving leather, but I get lining leathers and liquids through them. Some of the hardware / buckle stuff, too. The materials are good, the web site sucks Still, you can see what you want, and call down there. ( stleather.com ) or from your area maybe just drive down and look. I've used a lot of knives to cut leather, but I still go back to the utlity knife for long straight cuts, and a #11 x-acto for curves. Works as well as anything, and I dont waste time sharpening (pitch the blade and pop in a new one)>

I thin dyes 'thinner' than that, but I'm with chief on the oil.. never considered thinning it. I don't know if you need a "formula" for thinning dye, but I would recommend writing down what you did.. like simple as maybe a piece of masking tape on the bottle. If you never need it, no harm done. But I've mixed dyes, used them, made no note, only to have someone say "hey- kin i git another one like that" Some dyes i use full strength. Some I thin as much as 30:1. I just use dye solvent.. that denatured stuff will kill ya quick!