JLSleather

I really MUST update some of my software. And I still need to learn how to scan a blue gun on a flatbed scanner -- can't convince 'em to lay parallel to the machine bed! Still, even if it's a bit slow, I was able to eeek out this 'passable mess' for a gal who makes great clicker dies The artwork is hers, I just made it a "button" that would show up on a web page.

Well, yes - I DO know Hit on just what I wanted the first time doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen. Instructions are written in a way that if you "figger" a standard "pancake" holster, you can then easily convert that to what some folks call an "avenger", or a simple IWB, or a clip-on, etc..

http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/gun-holster-patterns/

Looks purdy good -- that's a bold stitch! Might try needle one size smaller, just see if'n ya like the look. And call Bob, ask him to drop half a dozen spare bobbins in the mail.. cheap, and very handy.

31?@! And he carryin' TWO (and I assume 1 in the grip)?@! Who he goin' to war with? Bunny prollems down there? Maybe he just need a couple magnets sewed into a new belt? 8" long, maybe he need a THIGH STRAP? Oh BTW -- sent you a small box this mornin'... jus case its too hot ta fish...

I don't find Osborne tools anywhere near the quality they used to be. I know punches need to be sharpened, but I shouldn't have to sharpen it BEFORE I use it. I have some dies - including mallet punches - from TX and they have been good. Lately, I also recommend Sandy 'n' friends at http://intdieco.com/index.html Great service - the dies are always quick, reasonably priced, solid, sharp, and spot on size. ETA: Been braggin' on Sandy 'n' friends for long enough, thought I better send her a note, ask if it's okay if I put their link up on my site.

In the process of updating the software ... maybe get it to show in grams, or pesos, or whatever that is...

Some guys will buy machines because they want to earn money, others will have them because they like doing it. Either way, up to you if it's "worth it". Determine what you want to sew. Making yourself one holster? Probably not "worth it" getting a machine. Sewing one belt? I'd pass. Sewing TEN belts, total, I'd still pass. You want to sew 10 belts per week, I'd get a machine. "They say" that the 441 machines will sew leather an inch thick. Personally, I don't see myself ever needing to do that. Most of my belts and holsters range from 3/16" to 5/16" thick. The machine that sews those "can't" sew my wallets (it "can", but I don't care to change it, only to change it back). So, decide if it's "Worth it" to get a machine. And IF it is, decide what you want to sew (leather thickness AND thread size you want to use) and there's your starting point. For a good while, I made more wallets than holsters, so I had a machine that stitched the wallets very well, and hand stitched the holsters (which are short).

As for me, my comments were intended to AID, not to denigrate. FWIW.

Leather stretches - and weather and heavy use aggravate that. Best bet - use good cuts of leather, preferably from along the spine of the hide, and subject it to getting wet as little as possible. Beyond that, you can gain some stretch resistance by using layers (a cord of three strands is very strong), or by lengthwise TIGHT stitching, or even by laminating with man-made materials (like webbing) which are made with interlocking fibers to prevent linear distortion.

Each his own, I suppose. I don't personally tolerate even those (MULTITUDE OF) holsters with stitch lines 1/4" or 1/2" from the goods. Short of cutting the thread AND pulling at the glued layers, this one won't loosen.

What keeps the Sig from dropping down? Ride on the grip?

Sandy is "da man", eh? Talented AND funny. Paper pattern is fine. Tell her Jeff sent ya (she'll ask 'Jeff who', but the service is still good!). http://intdieco.com/index.html

Just FYI -- $300 per side is about a 50% markup. A grade leather from H.O. tannery is about $200 per side ($8 per foot).

"Value" is subjective -- question is what's it worth TO YOU? I personally don't mind PAYING more AS LONG AS I'm GETTING more. The same stuff at a higher price is not "value", nor it less stuff at the same price. I like Wickett&Craig leathers, usually get the skirting leather and have them split to thickness I want. It isn't free, but it's quite good. Hermann Oak is also very good. Price is a little less, but there's a minimum order of 10 sides, if that's a concern. Both carve very nicely.

Yer 'nuthin' fancy' sheaths look purdy darn good, actually.

I always liked that one. I still get asked to make it on occasion.

I got mine from Uwe - but I think he said he's not carrying those any more. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1SET-KG867A-suspending-edge-guide-fit-for-Pfaff-335-1245-sewing-machine/152966209333?hash=item239d7f1f35:g:Do0AAOSwcxVaxtlC https://www.ebay.com/itm/1set-KB-205-adapter-bracket-FIT-for-Durkopp-Adler-205-370-204-370-Cobra-4/152755036186?hash=item2390e8e01a:g:s1QAAOSwFFZbBSKK

Guess he meant this fella ... https://www.etsy.com/shop/LeatherStampsTools?ref=seller-platform-mcnav

I aint fixina make wunna those, but that was priceless -- nice work up get the attitude flowing to hit the gym this morning! Despite the pixelation, that was certainly hi-res enough for this conversation! That looks quite a bit like a thingie I had years back for POKER CHIPS, though I suppose back then it was injection molded (?). You have a point also about the view -- maybe transparent (or at least translucent) is good. The "gun 'n' holster boys might just buy that if you make it horizontal and make it "drop out" like a wheel gun cylinder ... Maybe that aint cost effective, though. But I'm purdy sure you folks got driftwood up there on the north beach.. maybe could pick up a chunk while up there rasslin' them crocs for the next project?@! Gotta stretch the bones .... 'preciate the talk!

SO if a fella had a chunk o wood layin' out back the barn, could drill holes through the block spaced a bit like this. Then chase them same holes with a spade bit (yeah, I know -- somebody wanna git fancy and cut it out with an end mill on a cnc mill.. fine, whatever) 1.1" deep (or 1.250 deep, with a "thumb hole" on the sides of the holes). Which gonna look a bit like this (go ahead, somebody with all that 3d rendering stuff make a purdy pic ) #8 screw through the two end holes into the machine table to hang it, put the bobbins in and they don't unwind (no tape, no knot, no dust collection...)

Some things are flexible in the order, but I ALWAYS tool before adding linings. ALMOST always dye before assembling, and USUALLY apply final finish at the end. I have stitch groovers, but don't often use them - often opt for a CREASE instead of a groove (the stitch marker will still work). GENERALLY oil after dye (more often than not).

I always "temper" that "hand made" speech a bit. I've had people say my work "cant be hand made" because it was 'too perfect".. and you can find thousands of people on cutesy (etsy) claiming that their included defects somehow make their trinkets "worth more". Example - I love the look of hand stitching, but I'd rather see good machine stitching instead of poorly done hand stitching. Hand made is only valuable if it's WELL made. I don't charge by the hour, nor do I pay by the hour. I look at the item for sale, and decide if it's worth the asking price. Long stories about how much time was spent on it, or how much they spent on training, or how their Grandma makes her cookies, do not change the VALUE of that item. Long speeches about how long a guy has been doing it, or how much "experience" they have - also do not add to the goods. If a guy really is good at it, that will show in the work. If he's just been bopping out something for a long time, that will show too. And I've seen some "new guys" with real skills. In leather, what makes it "worth more"? I look for CLEAN hides, even dye applications and clear finishes with no streaks or spots, tight and consistent stitching, neat edges and corners, lace - if used - should be beveled and smooth. What DOESN"T add to the value? Stories about scars and brands making a project "unique". Flaws do not "add charm" or "character" to the finished goods. Calling defects (material or workmanship) "hand made". And the BIGGEST LOSER - TIME. There are extremes on both ends, of course. One guy wants a fortune for a simple little project because he took so long to make it. Sorry, I do not reward people for being slow, or inefficient. On the other hand, some other guy knows he isn't getting a huge amount for the sale, so his plan is to make it as inexpensively as is possible - lower grade materials and quick as possible. I personally don't hang out with either of those guys Now, I certainly "get" that something that takes longer will generally cost more, as things using more materials. But there is an "acceptable" time period for a given article. You can tell me you spent all week making that belt, every waking hour. But if I'm looking at a nice clean, solid leather belt done well with good materials, I'm auto putting that in the $60-80 range ... and no story about 100 hours matters. When I shop, I go by that old question: "If you cant TELL the difference, then why PAY the difference?" Convention says that "fair market value is what you can get". BUT in the end, it's YOURS, so YOU decide what to sell, and what price to sell at. So if "it feels like I am charging to little" then you are.

I wondered if anybody was going to point that out.

I haven't yet done it, but I will For the 'clones', I like the idea of a simple piece of wood. If my drill press hadn't pooped I'd be done Few things to get organized around here, and then I'll put one up. I suppose the 'trendy' thing to do is to post all over social poo trying to bilk leather workers into buying yet another item, or plans for an item. But maybe I'll just post a pic and a tip, and you can do what you like. Note you will need: something to drill with (hand drill might be easiest) small twist drills, 1/8" and 11/64" 1" spade bit (you could do with a 15/16" if thats what you happen to have) ruler and pencil block of wood, size dependent on number of bobbins retained couple of #8 screws x 1" (or 1 1/4")