Ferg

That is a great deal! Want to sell a couple of the ones you have your eye on? Or, How bout I go together with you on an order? Just PM me. I am interested. ferg

Check with Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. 1 (866) 362-7397 ferg

EagleScout, These machines were never intended for heavy production. They are Patchers. Will sew into the end of a boot or shoe and even a glove to fix a tear or bad threads. Great for sewing recognition patches on jackets and shirts. It is said they will max out at 1/4". Anything below that would be a plus. I want to use it for sewing small items and little gussets. The needle hole in the Needle Plate is 1/8" from the end of the arm. Only one foot design available for it as far as I know, it has teeth that will mark most any leather. Wiz suggested I use the tool handle dip on the teeth to smooth it out. I think the "dip" will normally give it enough traction since the notched foot is the only thing moving the material. The 29-4 has a small bobbin, it holds 21 feet of #69 thread. With the digital servo I can slow it down to one stitch at a time if I wish. My knees and ankles have long passed the ability to sew with a treadle driven machine thus the servo. I love machinery of most any kind, this little machine is priceless in it's simplicity. That is probably why they have been around for over 100 years. ferg

About halfway through the build on this little beauty. You folks who like to see the Vintage Singers refurbed to their original beauty will not like this I imagine. That said: I have wanted a Vintage Singer Patcher for some time. Had the opportunity and decided to build it with a Servo motor. The table is somewhat like the many presented on the forum except the top and the bottom are made of 1 3/4" solid Hard Rock Maple. Pedestal is 4" square steel tubing with 1/4" steel plates on the ends. Pedestal is not welded. Obtained a Digital Servo Motor from Bob Kovar, same one on my Skiving machine. I have a few decals for the machine, unfortunately I haven't been able to find a complete set for the 29-4. Stripped the finish off the head. Seems it had been spray canned several times. A few screws were not original, replaced them as well as a new Bobbin Winder. I did not disassemble the head to refinish it. Masked all of the parts not requiring paint finish and sprayed it. Masked the drive pulleys and large hand wheel, haven't decided if I will repaint the large wheel but will not do the smaller drive pulleys. The maple will be finished with Poly Urethane. Maple has not been finish sanded or the edges shaped at this point in time. Anxious to show the progress to someone outside my family. My wife actually thinks it is a beauty. Thanks for looking, ferg

AMEN! ferg

http://www.tolindsewmach.com ferg

I have a fairly large logo stamp. It is magnesium a good inch thick. I don't think you are going to have much luck with the delrin etc.on chrome tanned. I don't have one so I do not know for sure. I do know that mine in a two ton arbor press is about right. It takes all the pressure you can muster with your arm to make a good impression in chrome tanned. I have a large hot press. I put my logo stamp in it, take the temperature to about 240 degrees Fahrenheit, place the leather on top of something rigid, pick up the stamp with a very good pair of heavy leather gloves, place it into the spot you want. Close the press for about one minute. Voila! there is your imprint. ferg

Bob, Time will tell. It seems to be in pretty good shape. Haven't tried to sew anything with it yet. ferg

I have one I just bought last week. Exactly as yours. Only bought the head, am building a stand for it with digital servo. A few things missing and needs a refurb. Will post some photos when I get it finished. ferg

I lay the leather on either a marble slab, nylon cutting board or a piece of wood/MDF, with the edge of the leather close to the edge of stone etc. This gives you some much needed angling of the blade without cutting into your table top. Knife of any type needs to be super sharp and stropped often. ferg

I am betting on the quality levels. May be considering an entire hide with different areas of quality. ferg

I believe you would need to look at the Techsew 5100 or several other of the large machines. Keep in mind that you cannot sew with the smaller/finer threads with these. ferg

My skiver has both top and bottom feed, I would need to use a single feed to be sure that was the best way. Anyone considering one of these machines should know that other than the Fortuna, almost all of the machines on the market are exactly the same with different names on them. Fortuna is certainly the one that has been copied the most with at least one glaring difference. Just check out the photos of the different makes you will see the difference immediately. I also have several hand skiving knives I use to clean up corners mostly. That I do with a French Edger at times. ferg

I spoke about the feet in original posting probably being available somewhere. I still think they could be had IF someone cared to make them. I have modified enough leather working tools/machinery to know nothing is impossible, you just need some tools, ingenuity, and an idea. ferg

I have two of the Super Skivers, would gladly give them away for a very good price. Round knife works well especially the smaller ones. I have a straight blade skiving knife, it does a marginal job as well as several sizes of round knives. I have a one inch French Edger I use when not using my Skiving Machine. ferg

I think almost every make of sewing machine has piping feet for them. Bob Kovar probably has them. ferg

Imapeopleperson That machine looks to need a lot of work. I will give you $250. I would pay the shipping IF you can crate it. ferg

No but I am curious as to what this looks like and how it works. Looked on CR site didn't see anything. ferg

Haven't seen one. Do yo have a photo? ferg

You have a clutch motor. Servo motors are easier to handle, only if the machine will do what you expect though. ferg

Realistic thickness is 3/8". Foot lift is about 7/16" to 1/2". Will sew with #207 thread in top with 137 in bobbin. Preference? #137 max and will sew very nicely with #92, #69. I do not sew with anything less than #69. Wallets, purses/handbags, chaps, belts,and lining leather with some critical tension adjustments. I find any machine that you have setup for 1/8" to 1/4" leather thickness wil need readjustment of tension for thinner material. ferg

Wiz has filled the grooves in the toe/foot with the material you get to cover/insulate pliers etc. You can also file/grind part of the teeth off the foot, don't remove all. It will need some traction. ferg

I assure you, other folks have the same problem including me. My old eyes are a little tired and I need brilliant light to see what I am doing. I become frustrated when I think I am at exactly the right spot. Practice has a lot to do with it. I try to train myself with odd ball methods to accomplish things like this. The marks are the most positive so far. BTW: You could certainly make the notches with the Dremel. If the notch across the top of the foot doesn't help you, try making a little groove on the side of the foot. ferg

Google "Sewing zippers in Leather" Also: "Sewing with Zippers" BTW: I am sitting here looking at a commercially available zipper and the only thing I see as hard may be the 1/2" ends with no zipper teeth. That should be no trouble at all. If you want a nice clean end on the zipper ends, I hate the metal stops and ends, Cut a piece of very thin leather twice the length of the end of the zipper beyond the last teeth and exactly as wide as the zipper cloth. Lightly glue the thin leather onto the fabric at the end, turn it under gluing that side also. Now sew through the thin leather as close to the last tooth as possible crossways. The zipper slide will not go beyond that point. Do this on both ends of the zipper. You can use most any kind of lining leather that is only about 1oz - 2oz in thickness. ferg

Problem with cutting the feet short is, will the leather still be pulled through under the feet. If your needle foot doesn't have a slot in it, very carefully file a small "V" notch directly in front alignment with the needle and exactly in the center "Left to Right" on the top of the needle foot. If your foot is black the file will show a bright line. If the foot is already bright metal, using a permanent marker with a fine point, make a thin line inside the little groove you made with the file. BTW: Use a three cornered file and don't do the filing while the foot is on the machine. ferg