Northmount

Some malls will let you setup for a couple days for a much more reasonable fee. Contact the mall management company. Tom

Drill out holes at the end of each slot with a brad-point bit, then use a coping saw to cut the slot. Same principles as cutting a slot in leather using a round punch for each end of the slot, and a knife to cut between. The brad-point bit is similar to a forstner bit. Drills a cleaner hole than a typical twist drill. Tom

You have a couple queries about your clicker press. Please advise these fellows if it is still available, post a couple pictures too. Tom

Moved your request to leather sewing machines. You'll probably get more answers here. Tom

Edited: Looks pretty rough! Frame made from 4 X 4 X 1/2" rusty angle iron, with minimal tools (drill, hacksaw, file). Oh, and lots of wire brushing! Pic 3 and 4 show skiving, then modified to allow more adjustment of the knife, pics 5, 6, 7, 8. Knife holder needs to be re-done. Tried milling a nice recess for the blade using an end mill in the drill press, but too much slop, so it jumped and tore out a small piece. Now that I have a milling machine (which I haven't used yet since it is at my sons place) I should try prettying it up some. Tom

The Chinese one or my copy of the Scharf? Tom

What about just doing the head and flames? And repeating that. Tom

A pencil works well as an applicator too. Was mentioned in another thread here. I've used it a few times since. Works well for me. Don't have the slots in the Tandy applicator to clean out, just wipe with a rag or paper towel. Tom

The OP's IP address is in Hemet, California. Tom

Try aluminum foil tape, used for sealing joints in HVAC work. About 1.5" wide, self adhesive. Should be able to bury it between layers, easy to stitch through if needed. Tom

Locked! I think this has deteriorated far enough. Tom

Pictures? Descriptions? Thickness? Colours? Tom

If the edge you are cutting from is on a curve, the guide will follow the curve, and of course the knife is parallel to the guide, so it does cut curves. The radius will be limited at some point. The smaller the radius, the harder it will be to guide the cutter. Tom

You could use a brass hammer too. Won't deform the punch. May need to dress up the hammer face once in a while. Long time ago, we used lead hammers. When they got beaten up too badly, used to melt them down and recast them. Had 4 or 5 molds so could do a batch at a time. Now lead is no longer safe to use! The lead hammers didn't bounce either. Tom

Take a look at the saddle examples here. The first pic shows the stamping done after wet forming. The next 2 show stamping done before wet forming. The third pic shows both stamping done before wet forming, and the makers stamping on the flat with no wet forming so you can see the difference with just this one maker. If you want to maintain the crispness of the stamping, it has to be done after wet forming, while on a solid form. Tom

Crock pots are good. Have seen them posted here before for melting wax and blending NFO. Just don't tell your wife what happened to her crock pot! Tom

Sounds like it should be double boiler. Most recipes melting any kind of wax use a double boiler or equivalent to reduce risk of inflammable vapours and a possible fire. Tom

I assume you are talking about book binding. Is that right, or slip covers for already bound books? You might like to give your location on this planet. Might be someone closer to home that might be interested. Your IP address looks like Fort Worth, TX Tom

Reduce your photos to about 800 X 600 pixels, which is quite adequate for most web viewing here. Then you can post lots of photos! Tom Edit:. You can create a gallery, upload your photos to it, then paste the link in your posts.

I prefer the deadblow hammer. Also stick the punch into some beeswax before punching each hole. Cuts easier and is easier to pull out. Tom

If the leather is soft, it will snag easily and show wear on corners quite quickly. Snagged the sleeve on my nice lambskin jacket going out the door one day. Caught on the screen door handle and ripped it! I would hesitate to use it on case exteriors if it is very soft temper. Tom

Looks like it may be burned in, pyrography, like woodburning. Tom

You can use a clamp or a vise as a press to make nice clear impressions. You can also use a dead-blow hammer to eliminate the bounce that occurs when using a hammer/mallet. Tom PS I'll also move this thread to "How Do I Do That".

Reinforcement tape from Lisa Sorrell sounds great. Another option would be fiberglass window screen, or even aluminum wire screen if you really need additional strength. Either can be cut to whatever width and length you need. Tom

Have you tried replacing the needle since the jamb? May be bent or point damaged. Tom