Constabulary

don´t know this particular motor but my first guess would a be a too tight V-belt.

I´m thinking about selling my BUSMC / DVSG #6. its the later model. Its fully restored and comes with bobbin winder and some accessories. If you need just the head (machine it self + bobbin winder I could ship it but If you need the cast iron stand too I´m out. I can send pictures and a video if you want.

There were 111 with just needle feed (meaning bottom feed and needle feed combined and not moving presser foot) and the 111w141 had just drop feed (no walking needle and no walking foot) but all 111w155 had triple feed and that includes the "walking needle". Maybe stitch length is adjusted to zero?

or just want them

the JACK Servos from College Sewing also have this "4 prong output" and the 2 prong output - the 2 prong is for an LED light afaik but the 4 prong is nowhere mentioned. Maybe worth checking with JACK or College Sewing? EDIT: Dumb me - the 4 prong is for the needle positioner - I removed it so the output is free But I don´t know if this output can be used for a foot lifter too

Thats real amchine hoarding. That guy needs professional help, I think. I would not even touch 90% of that stuff but everybody has his own preferences. Nice filthy chair at 00:51

I had similar problems and seems often are the snaps the problem - The best snaps you can buy are DOT, STIMPSON and OSBORNE. I get best results with REAL brass snaps not steel or brass / copper plated. REAL BRASS - made in the USA - not China! Thats at least my experience. I once bought Chinese snaps and they said real brass - figured they were copper plated steel and just one part of the set was real brass - they all fxck you. Better buy Made in USA brass snaps from established manufacturers.

On newly restored machines I use S-761 for a while as is has a good cleaning effect (there is always some dirt - somewhere). Later I use plain sewing machine oil (like Lily White Oil) http://www.spartacusgroup.net/NATO_S-758_NATO_S-761_SGOMP.html I use S761 for almost everything from Household to mountain bike chains to sewing machines. We had this in the Army and used if for all weapons from MG3 down to P8 and to me the specs are pretty convincing. So no reason for trying something else. But everyone has his "miracle" oil or secret oil mixture. I just buy what worked for me for years.

NICE - where have you found the nickle plated staples?

College Sewing in the UK has them as well as other bits: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/Durkopp-Adler-291,-292-Sewing-Machine-Parts

Ha ha - haven´t even noticed all posters are Krauts or live in Kraut Land Never mind

joergfbernhard Das Forum ist international, besser in Engisch schreiben this is an international forum, better write in English

I want the head

Nope - all gone - even in Germany. There is a looooong thread in a German Sewing Machine Forum where they have replaced the pulleys and timing belts. Seems to work but it was a pain ITA. I´ll look for the link and post it here. EDIT: it was an Adler 189 but same problem and same belt afaik https://naehmaschinentechnik-forum.de/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1485

Or increasing import taxes on Chinese products

I have no adjustment data for the Singer Class 7 but I would assume you have to lower the needle bar a tiny bit. It happens that the needle bar moves a up a little bit over the years (?) of use. Or you probably have bring the hook closer to the needle. I would download the Consew 733 Manual and use the adjustment data because it is a very similar machine. http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/733R.pdf All to my best knowledge. EDIT: looks like you are sewing 1 layer of relatively thin leather - what happens when you sew 3 - 4 layers of leather or thicker material in general?

I have no idea I never worked with Dexion angle profiles or the like. They would not be my 1st choice to be honest (for optical reasons). I would probably choose to sort of tubing push-fit system - if you know what I mean.

Nice idea again but why not using a needle threader, a serger looper or a plain twisted wire loop? BTW - How do you get coffee splatters on top of a thread stand?

The cutting board idea originally came from UWE. The board has a nice surface and just costs 6€ on my side of the pond. https://www.ikea.com/de/de/catalog/products/80233430/ a little bit more in the US but still a nice piece of wood for the money https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80233430/

If you have the chance upload some pictures here. It easier to evaluate machines when we can see them. It depends on the condition, the accessories and how the machines are set up (f.i. no stand, just a treadle stand or a motor stand) I do not know the market in the US (or the federal state you go back to) but I think it´s not worth bringing a 29K3 back home. The 29K172 is a different story - it is a large bobbin long arm patcher and it for sure is worth a lot more and afaik the spare parts of the 29K72 (series 29K71 - 29K73) will fit for the 29K172 machine. Meaning the spare parts situation is a lot better then for the almost 100 years old 29K3 with small bobbin and "not so good" parts situation. But if the 29K3 is in pristine condition with nice decals and uncle sam pays for moving it over the pond I´m sure you will find a buyer for it. Functional machines are for sure easier to sell than machines a potential buyer has to restore so it depends on the condition and if the machine is properly working or not. Check if all parts are present (compare with pictures you find on the web) and in best case test sew it - download manuals and test the machines. EDIT: Just noticed int eh topic the machines come with treadle base

I have modified it - originally it had one heavy cast iron double pulley but it did not work with this machine setup.

Me too - you could sell it to me If you ever come across a 97 head only drop me a note - we both know that these things can be shipped over the pond

The flat bed attachment is made from a IKEA bamboo cutting board and a piece of scrap metal. Slit right of the metal plate is because I made an odd move with the router but I can live with it. I think I´ll fill it with some wood filler.

So after having the machine in a space saving manner mounted on the end of my 111G156 table I figured the idea is space saving but I needed the work space left of the machines so I needed another solution for my "Caliber .45". Some pictures of the new setup for the 45D91 Stand is from a patcher and I have added a "pedal mount" from a flat bed Singer stand. Pedal mount is nearly flush with the ground but since the stand is on brake casters I still can easily move it. Still have to do minor modifications (ball caster on the left end of the pedal mount and so on) but it´s almost done. I also made a flat bed attachment

For sure everyone wants the best machine but often they are over the budget. Charging the credit card is easy but could cause other problems in the following weeks or month. You sometimes see people here who sell their expensive machines after a few month or so. Probably because of being short of money for too long cause hobby / business did not pay off, it was not the right hobby or just other things (or bills) took priority - lots of different stories. So why not staring with a used machine - I know you barely find the heavy 441 type machines used but why not starting with machines like the Singer 45K or other vintage machines heavy leather sewing machines? It for sure depends on the local market and often people have better access to new machines than to used machines but I would consider vintage machines at least as an option. These machines have been used for decades in all branches of the leather trade, they for sure do not have all the advantages of modern triple feed / unison feed machines (well, new machines have their issued too) but they are reliable and some of their "drawbacks" are often neglectable and depend on the product you want to sew. I don´t want to hold you back from buying new but used machines can be a good and affordable start into machine sewing. And I tell you - restoring AND using them later on is very satisfying. But restoring is not everyone's cup of tea. My 2 cents