Constabulary

This manual + parts list is for sure helpful 29k71-71-73 Service Manual and Parts List.pdf

29K8 is basically the same as the 29K1 / 29K3 / 29K4 and the like with just minor difference which could be a different needle plate or an oil cup... It´s approx 100 years old or older. Very few parts are still available, major wear parts are no longer available, gear box pinions of the more modern 29K7x series do not fit. 29K7x series bell crank levers can be modified to fit. Needle / hook timing on these early models cannot be adjusted. Only thing you can adjust is the needle holder which often can be moved to the right a little bit. If this does not help you may try a new shuttle / hook which remained the same until today. Parts # is 8604 I have restored a 29K1 a while ago - maybe it helps: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/60554-29k1-pre-christmas-barn-find/

The 31-15 also is a drop feed machine. A lot larger than the 99 but still a drop feed machine. When ever I tried to sew suede with a drop feed machine it caused troubles. The problem always was the friction between the suede and the presser foot. Maybe it depends on the kind of suede. Maybe a Teflon foot can be helpful but I haven´t tried it. If others have different experiences it would be nice to share them.

Agree with Wiz #69 or #92 is sufficient for sewing on patches to hats, caps, uniforms... I have used a patcher (Singer 29K71) or my drop feed post bed machines for that (Singer 34K earlier and now Singer 51w) Sometimes gluing the patches in place with a water soluble glue stick before sewing helps. Sewing on patches IMO does not require "big tech" / super high $ machines. Look up "810 post bed machine" - thats basically what I´m using but mine (Singer 51w) is many decades older and has no reverse. Maybe a CB-810 or the like already does the job. Not sure what you can find locally but checking with dealers who have adverts on top of this site (turn of add blocker if using one) is a good idea. But what ever machine you decide to buy test them before buying with the thread and needle size you want to use or have the dealer to sew off the machine with what you want to sew.

You are hopefully aware that the Singer 99 is a tiny domestic drop feed sewing machine, right? 4/5 oz one layer or multiple layers of it? When you put a layer of fabric on top of the suede it may work better as it reduces the friction between suede and presser foot. If sewing suede on top and bottom I´d rather use a needle feed or even better a triple feed machine. My 2 cents.

34K11 is a heavy one among the 34K class machines - lets hope it has the shuttle and bobbin cause they are obsolete (not the same as for 34K5 and the like). The machine is using 328 needles.

usually it is just the need bar height you have to adjust (in best case) - most likely lowering it a tiny bit does the job. maybe this thread here is helpful: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/93484-singer-16-41-hook-and-needle-timing-help/

sorry if I got you wrong

Hard to tell when not siting inform of the machine. If the needle bar rock frame is a bit off / has play sideways you can try to loosen the set screw screw (#1) for the pivot point stud #2 (don´t know the name) on the top side of the needle bar rock frame and carefully tap in the stud a little bit (if it really is loose). When done make sure you adjust #3 if necessary. Hope this helps

Dürkopp 241 is very similar to Singer 111w. How much is it off center? Maybe needle bar bent a little bit? Or needle hole in needle bar is worn out a bit? You can use Singer 111 needle bars for the Dürkopp 241. They are available fairly cheap. https://www.ebay.de/itm/Needle-Bar-For-Singer-111W-Consew-225-226-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-240498/152426180931

You juts have to adjust the needle bar height. The 135x17 is a little bit longer

Video is a bit poor and old but you don´t know the thread path but you know threading in the video is wrong? How do you know?

I´m sorry to hear that. Just as Glenn said, we also had a couple of good conversations mainly about Singer 45K´s and their parts. Al actually did by far the best 45K restorations I ever have seen. The best was just good enough even on spare parts. I remember I offered him some Adler parts that fit the 45K´s as well but he refused and kept looking for the OEM Singer parts. Some here may remember his efforts on Japanning the machine bodies. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/73078-first-try-at-japanning-on-a-restoration-project/ https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83226-first-try-at-japanning-on-a-restoration-project-the-conclusion/ Rest in peace Al.

due to BREXIT expect to pay 20% UK VAT + custom fees on top.

The "W" serial number chart once came from LW member Gregg From Keystone Sewing Singer 32 just came to my mind first but Singer 17w is the one - obviously. You most likely will need one or two part donor machines. Not necessarily 51w ZZ machines but maybe a 17w at least. When I looked for parts for my Singer 51WSV2 I found that the OEM hooks where available new somewhere for around $80 or so. But I was able to install a Durkopp hook I had in my parts bin so it did cost me a buck. Its a slightly different hook but it works. The hook slide plate is still available Singer # 221215

Your German is becoming better

Very cool machine - a Zig Zag Post bed machine. The Zig Zag cam kinda reminds me of the Singer 32 flat bed machine. W1387801 dates it to 1951 - quite interesting because it is the early 51w design but 1950´s era made. You learn something new every day. Would like to see more pictures of your own machine. I have restored a "basic" Singer 51w a while ago.

Agree, Adler 69 triple feed but as MICHIEL said hard to recognize more details just from its backside. However - looks like the big hinge for tilting mack the machine has been replaced with a solid plate - quite suspicious I´d say.

I´d compare parts lists to see what parts are different.

I´m kicking around this large hook conversion idea for... ever. Actually never ordered other parts then the hook. Back then (guess more than 1.5 years ago) I got one from JIE YI - made de in Taiwan and it appears to be quite good quality. They at least have a website and looks like this is the "heavy thread" version (B1830563BA0) according to their website: http://www.jieyihooks.com/PRO/jieyi/JRT1/1055.html

So you had no blade at all? I though you had one which was just bad or so... important is that you found a reliable source and even better who even has access to an original blade. However when I look up planer knife maker / industrial blade maker (for what ever purpose) I easily find a bunch of them but of course depends on your market but I´m sure you have several industrial blade maker in the US as well.

I would have looked for a maker of wood planer blades.

ISO = In Search Of I guess

"Identical" was not obvious enough as it seems. There are at least 3 hooks (most likely more) for the 111 / 112 series machines, some have bobbin cases with caps some have a drop in bobbin case. However they all work and fit in the hook saddle that is mounted in 111 and 112 series machines. So to say the hooks are interchangeable but some fine tuning may be necessary. You can even run certain "foreign" brand hooks in the 111 / 122 series machines - f.i. Dürkopp 239, 241, 241, 249 hooks. Some Juki , Consew, and other brand machines are using the same hook saddles as well so their hooks will work too. Thats the nice thing on Singer machines - when you look over the fence a little bit you will find a lot of similar parts on other brand machines. Last year I installed a Dürkopp hook on my approx 100 years old Wheeler & Willson based Singer 51w post bed machine and new made needle plates, feed dogs from Chinsese made "Golden Wheel" brand machines as well. You know what I mean? That works because a lot of modern machines are sill based on the decades old Singer machines. Certain parts have never changed or maybe just slightly.