blue duck

A setter is going to help tremendously with the deformed posts/caps. For now I use a hand held setter, a Pres-n-Snap, that works well for what I need. As for the length, if it is appx. 1/8" above the surface, that seems to work on most leather, for really thin leather, you might try a bit less. It may seem wasteful, but a test snap on a scrap will save you lots of grief.

I don't know of, and I doubt there is, a standard for thickness. You should find the leather that will fit yours or your customers needs and wants. Then if needed skive or thin the end down to fit the area you are concerned about. Like on the end of a belt where it turns over for a buckle. A bench splitter would be ideal, but you may need to improvise to create a smooth professional look.

Would just like to add a note on skiving. Although the leather itself is probably soft enough to make your seam, the problem becomes the bulk of the two layers of leather once turned. It will leave a rather significant lump. By reducing the thickness you will make a much more finished looking project. Another help is to hammer the seam down [in the direction you want it to lay] once sewn and turned. As you mentioned do a test. Where you will really notice it is at the corners. You can also clip a series of V's going around the corner and it will lay much better. i.e. V V V V V with the point close, but not touching your seam

craigslist post has expired.

Tried to pm you, not sure if it worked.

You sir are full of brilliant ideas. Thanks for sharing.

Very nice Cody! Mom's are usually patient but she will be thrilled with this present. You even tooled the bottom. The next one will go faster.

Mine is a 155 but pretty sure it will work. It is 10" x 13 3/8" Be glad to get any other info you need. Just holler.

I think you have a start there. A walking foot is certainly a start. As for the size of your projects, if I understand what you are saying, it isn't the size i.e. chaps vs key fob, it is the total thickness of what you want to sew. How many layers and how thick each layer is. Honestly there is no such machine as one not meant for leather that can still be used for leather. It really doesn't matter what level of the craft you are at. You can find either a used one for less, or perhaps one not meant for hours a day use. But with your level of knowledge I would suggest contacting a dealer (or more than one brand). Tandy would not be my first choice in this venture. See folks on the above sponsor list or do a search here. There are several folks that can steer you right. Good luck.

Very very nice indeed! Did you use heat on the edge paint? The design is really nice as well. Your own? It is great to see what quality can be accomplished using more affordable tools. Much to be said for the talent as well.

You might try The Thread Exchange. They have quite a selection. As for the leather, there are many online places to look. Seems like everyone has a favorite. But perhaps you could give a bit more info as to what you are looking for. Sides, blanks, going to tool it, weight, etc. ?

By all means let them make something. Card wallets are an idea. Not much leather and they can have something to give mom, or grandparents or teachers, or neighbors, or.... A gift that actually means something. The pride in their work will last forever. Something you can do with your children for many years to come. Ending the stitch line is just back stitching a couple of holes. Follow the same thread line top/bottom, end at the back side, clip close, if needed touch end with lighter.

What are you trying to find Harry? Patterns, construction techniques, ideas? If you understand construction techniques and create your own patterns, this book may give you some ideas. However, there are no detailed patterns. The drawings that you see in the description of the book are pretty much all it amounts to. I found it interesting, but if I were you I would see if a local library could get it in for you to check out if possible. If there is something specifically you are wanting from it, I can try and find it for you. kat

Gary, was that price under their Elite, Gold or regular pricing? Thanks.

Far from a book expert, but you might try using a good tooling leather weight that you are comfortable with. And then stitch it to a thin enough piece to do you turning.

Thank you so much. Think I need to talk with the client and see if I can't turn his head a bit. You have come up with a good alternative. I thought the cant was a bit shallow as well, but when I put it on him with a 30* it stuck out behind him or beside him a few inches. I will try and post a pic or two when done and we can all have a good laugh.

Thank you so much. The weight/size is exactly the concern I am having. (Why or how he thinks he will carry it daily is beyond me.) I am pretty sure he doesn't even have the belt to support it, but may be another order. I hadn't thought of lining it, as you suggest. That would certainly help. Might try kydex? Hmm, now you have me thinking. Thanks again. kat

Project request to me: Cowboy style holster to be carried as a cross draw, appx. cant 15* forward, for a Desert Eagle. The weight of that small cannon is what has me puzzled. I am trying to figure out how I create enough support to keep it at that angle, yet keep it in that style. He wants it for an existing belt, to carry everyday. There may be a perfectly simple answer to this, but I am not coming up with it.

Thank you. They had a sale price on two of them, so thought mabybe….. Oh well, next time.

Is there a special link? I don't seem to find a sale price for all the items listed.

Quite a process. Very nice.

I have wondered the same thing. I talked myself out of trying them after using kitchen knives. Those almost seemed disposable. And if they chipped, they were useless. That said, I would also think that the material quality is like steel. There is the good, the bad, and everywhere in between. I just wasn't ready to spend more to see if that theory held up. Look forward to seeing what other have found. And if the quality of cuts is comparable to steel.

For what it is worth I find Barge contact cement to be the best. Pretty sure it was originally for building shoes. Once leather with leather is bonded, it is stuck. You will tear the leather many cases before breaking the glue bond. That said I don't know about your specific case. If you do choose to try it, I think the toluene free barge is not as tough as the regular. Also make sure you use good ventilation. Finally, it sounds like you are applying it to the finished side, so if you rough up the area where you are attaching the patch, you will get better adherence to the leather.

Got a sweetheart? Christmas is coming faster than I want to think, you could make a nice bag. Small but still a t-bottom construction like a tote. Drop collar, zip top. inside and outside pockets for phone, keys, tablet, etc.. But that is just an idea. Think it would be a great hit.