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garypl

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Everything posted by garypl

  1. I agree and normally don’t use clamps when gluing leather. In the few cases when I feel clamps are needed, I put pieces of scrap leather (usually 6-8 oz) under the jaws of the clamps and the dents stay on the scraps and not on my project! Gary
  2. In my business I only discount for quantities - repeat orders are the same price if quantity ordered is the same. Nobody has ever questioned or complained about this policy. Gary
  3. I use a cheap air brush from Harbor Freight to spray acrylic finishes as well as oil dyes. Works great, simple to keep clean, and if I need to replace it I only have to spend @$10. Gary
  4. I’m not sure how this works as a pipe rest, but personally I would at least use leather with a smoother backside or, better yet, line the piece with another piece of leather so both sides look good Gary
  5. Beautiful job on the saddle Ryan! I wouldn’t know where to begin on a project like this. Did you get someone to mentor you, read a lot of books, watch videos or a combination of all these to tackle this project? Gary
  6. Very nice case - and carving really stands out nicely! Gary
  7. Really nice carving! The last picture shows a circular piece - how big is it? Gary
  8. I think airbrushing will allow you to darken it without overdoing it. Test on a sample piece and stop when it’s slightly lighter than you want it, then oil it and see how it looks after the oil dries overnight. You can always give it another layer with the airbrush and repeat until it’s the color you want. Gary
  9. I think it might be more trouble to use hide glue than it’s worth. I use hide glue for woodworking and it works great for gluing up chairs because eventually you can reverse the bond using alcohol or warm water and reglue the joints. Downside is that you have to mix the dry glue with water and heat it to dissolve the glue. You have to keep it hot while using it to keep it in liquid state. I have an electric glue pot that keeps it at a constant temp. I think there are easier ways to seal edges Gary
  10. Did you try rotating the needle guide slightly to try to correct the problem? Sounds like the front of the guide is hitting the outer foot, so maybe turning it slightly will give you the clearance you need? Gary
  11. No, it does not cut the leather - just marks a thin line. I often dampen the leather first to make a heavier line. It is easier to make curves because it is a sharp point. I only use a crease to make decorative lines, normally on straight edges.
  12. I have the creaser but I normally use a wing divider to mark my stitching lines. Seems easier to me. Gary
  13. I need to look on Craig’s list more often! I bought my Consew 206RB-4 on Craig’s List for $180 complete with servo and table and I love it! Had to spend a couple of days resetting and retiming everything and just recently corrected a problem that was caused by a bent needle plate. Works great now and I wouldn’t mind finding another deal like it! Only problem I have not been able to correct is reverse stitch length. Only reverses into the same holes when stitch length is at the maximum, which I never use. Oh well...
  14. Forgot to mention I heat this in a jar in a pan of water on a hot plate (double boiler) stirring to blend the ingredients. I use an old jar to make a batch, then pour into a smaller jar for daily use. When I make something for somebody I give them a small tin filled with this balm to use on their leather item. I bought the tins on Amazon, they hold about 1 tablespoon full of balm. I use a heat gun to melt it into the tin. Works great! Gary
  15. Here is my recipe: Beeswax - 50% Carnuba wax - 10% NFO - 30% Lanolin - 5% Lexol - 5% Paraffin - 1 shaving Makes a fairly soft leather balm that you can rub into the leather and heat with a hair drier to let it quickly soak in. Gary
  16. Have you thought about wet forming the upper dome section and then stitch the bottom cylinder to the dome? Don’t know if this design would work for you, but seems it would give you a smooth surface all the way down. Gary
  17. I have sisters living on the north side in Chicago, around Touhy and Milwaukee Ave, Evanston and Wheaton. Pretty crowded up there and I don’t miss the cold weather! Whenever I add a lining to anything I glue and sew the lining to ensure it won’t peel off. Maybe some thin pigskin lining will work - it’s cheap enough to try.
  18. Hi Neil, I don’t make watch straps, but rather than butt joining the ends in the middle, I think I would just sew a small loop in one end for the pin and attach the buckle at the other end. Use a thin piece of leather, maybe 1-2 oz, for the lining. Kind of like making a small belt! You could stop the lining at the ends so the leather is thinner where you have to make the loops for the pin and the buckle. I grew up on the South side of Chicago but left there for good in 1981. In what area do you live? Gary
  19. I did a comparison two years ago between Edge Kote, Angelus and a Giardini. Here is a link - you may find it interesting. I have pretty much switched to Giardini. Gary
  20. If the leather is thick it may be difficult to sew that close to the edge without seeing this problem. I always leave leather oversized, sew, then trim to size. If this isn’t possible, I sew @3/16” in from the edge so there is enough support to prevent needle coming out at an angle. Gary
  21. Andreas - I would like the Bianchi videos if they are still available. Please PM me your PayPal info and I will send the money. Gary
  22. Mike is right on - you have to go really slow to prevent overruns, which is why I use the smaller tips. I usually seal the surface with Resolene before I paint, so if I get paint out side the border I can quickly wipe it off without staining the leather. I seal the paint after it dries. Gary
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