Jump to content

Eccho

Members
  • Content Count

    185
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Eccho

  1. Eccho

    Leather Guitars

    Looks cool, but I don't think anyone who appreciates the sound of their guitar is going to be interested. I have a 1959 Martin acoustic, and a 1967 CBS Masterworks acoustic, and they both just sound better every year. As the wood ages and drys it gets mellower. I bring my Martin with me to Texas in the winter, and there is a noticeable difference in the sound just with the change in humidity levels. During high humidity, whether in Canada or the U.S. , I keep desicant packs in the guitar case to avoid any kind of warp. Having said that, I am sure wrapping an acoustic in leather is going to deaden the sound big time. I am not a fan of solid bodies but I would think they too would be affected. However!!!!!!!!!!! There are thousands of non played guitars hanging from walls, and used as decor items,and they would certainly be conversation pieces wrapped in leather and braided...........I have to learn to write short hand. :>)
  2. I think cdthayer is pretty close, I thought maybe a skinning knife, so along the same train of thought, although it does not look like it had a very sharp edge to it.
  3. Yes Herman Oak is a higher quality of leather. The lower quality sides and shoulders are great practice material, but if you want good quality in the end result,you must put good quality in at the start. Everyone is always looking for cheaper leather, cheaper hardware, cheaper lace, etc. Find a quality product line that you can live with and price your end product accordingly. You wont be sorry. JM2C
  4. Are you sure your two pieces are the same exact size? It almost looks like your top piece of leather may be slightly larger than the lower one, so when you try to match up the stitching marks you get a riffle in the larger piece. JM2CW
  5. Buyer beware, some or all of these hides may not be allowed into the North American market. I would be cautious.IMHO
  6. Very nicely done. I really like your tooling, is that an original design?
  7. Your knives are stunning, I too was wondering what a custom made blade would be worth. Say a 4in. blade, just walking around, everyday,belt knife. I would make my own sheath. Nicely done.
  8. That puppy weighs in at 78+ lb...............shipping will kill ya....IMHO:>)
  9. Terrific looking! I really enjoy the finish on the inside, makes the piece really pop, well done!
  10. It appears to me, that the cup on the left is possible clay or ceramic, although I lean toward clay, and the one on the right looks like it might also be ceramic that has been coated in clear acrylic. We have a pine table at the cottage that has about a 1/4 to 3/8" coating of clear acyilic to protect the soft wood from dents and scars, plus of course it make clean up a breeze. I have seen it applied on a small scale, where it was poured onto the object to be coated and "brushed" into place with a hair dryer on low heat setting. There was of course no actual brush used, just the air current of the blower was used to move the liquid around and the low heat kept it from setting up too quickly. Looks terrific when it is done. Another thing it could be is epoxy resin coating. This is a two part system, resin and hardener, it also gives a clear as glass finish. Here is a you tube how to do a bar top, if it will help. Good luck.
  11. Goatskin is more durable than cowhide. It is softer and more supple because of the lanolin in the leather. This lightweight hide is flexible, so you typically do not have to break in goatskin products. It is more durable than cowhide and is water-resistant. Goatskin is warm, but breathable, so it is comfortable to wear. Goatskin has a pebble-like grain, so the grain has distinctive ridges. Goatskin leather is produced into straight-grained leather that is rolled in the same direction while it is drying, and crushed goatskin is rolled and ironed to flatten the ridges. Kidskin is from young goats, and is very soft. I hope this helps answer your questions. :>)
  12. Here is a quote from a leather care specialist. Although leather does indeed become a little suppler after applying olive oil, this instant gratification comes with a price. Olive oil, and every oily substance for that matter, will not "nourish" your leather, but actually accelerate its deterioration. Leather is extremely permeable, and will soak up any oils you put on it. When oil first saturates leather, it seeps to the back-to the part you can't see. Eventually, the oil ends up spreading throughout the leather and naturally resurfaces. Once this happens, your leather will have unsightly oil spots. I suggest using this as a learning experience. Make a new piece, dye it, then use leather honey, or Ausie to soften it. Then your finish. IMHO
  13. I don't believe you should have put olive oil, or any kind of oil on first. The dye cannot penetrate the leather. There may be others, with more input. I don't think it can be salvaged but I am not sure. Good luck.
  14. eglideride is right ! It says everything that needs to be said. Nicely done!
  15. I find I get the most efficiency out of my time by having two or three projects on the go at all times. I precut useable scraps into bag ends, gussets, boot chain straps, of various sizes and then instead of wasting time while one project dries, I simply put it aside and go on to something else, dying, stitching, finishing, burnishing, there are always other things to do. Also, In my area we have a veterans hospital with a leather room, and they make key fobs, coasters, and trivets for the various legion branches with their individual branch insignias tooled in. They are always extremely appreciative of leather ends being donated to them, as the hospital has limited funds for supplies. Many retirement homes also have craft rooms with leather workers looking for material......Good Lord.... I am a blabber mouth ! :>)
  16. Eccho

    Arbor Press

    Why not just get yourself a makers mark that only requires a couple of mallet blows and looks great. You don't need a press. There are a few sites around and you can pick which one suits you. I bought mine from " Grey Ghost Graphics " for around .$65.00 and it works excellent. It leaves a nice clean impression, and it weighs about 2.5 ounces (guessing). Or there are electric brand irons as well. JM2CW :>)
  17. Welcome! Tandy Leather has many wallet kits as well as inserts for tri-fold, or bi-folds. If you are fairly new these might be a place to start, and may give you some insight how it all works, so you would feel more comfortable doing an original piece. Good luck !
  18. This might help...http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/1385-02.aspx I have some of these and they are pretty doggone tiny. Good luck !
  19. IMHO you want to have all of your tooling and dying completed first. I would then stitch, and I like to finish with Resolene ( personal choice ) as this coats the stitching as well, I am sure there will be lots of opinions to come:>) I like to put my hardware on last if possible, simply because I don't want Resolene on it and I'm too lazy to mask etc.
  20. Try http://www.leathersmithdesigns.com/leather-rivets-snaps-grommets-eyelets.htm Shipping might get you though.
  21. You did fine, and I don't remember what I use where or when. I have been thinking I should make a log, with a finished pic, measurements, hardware used, leather weight, dyes and stains, etc. While I know the human hand is not capable of duplication, you can come close enough for 99.9% of the populace, if you have the proper data available.
×
×
  • Create New...