MADMAX22

There are several makers that glue the pieces together over a curved table/barrel/whatever they can get a slight curve over as you have done. Lots of makers use one size smaller in the bobbin so 277 top and 207 bottom. I personally like grooving the inside or use a creaser or whatever to make an indentation for the thread to sit in. This keeps the thread from wearing on the cloths and what not.

Thanks for posting this. Parts catalog will be very useful. Think it would be nice to have a in depth video going over all the adjustments you dont want people to do, alot of us dont have the option to send our machines back across the US not to mention the cost of doing such is prohibitive in my opinion. Ofcourse I am one of those people who does my own vehicle maintenance regardless how badly the dealer would like me to drop it off in there shop. Noticed these machines seem to come with a all silver/chrome thread tension assemblies now, are these any better then the old black ones that first shipped on these guys?

Use a pricking wheel not a overstitch wheel if you do that method. The pricking wheel actually puts little pricks in the leather which you can find with your awl. Overstitch wheels are meant for going over your stitching afterwards which is a good idea as it smooths it out. Make sure your awl is bloody sharp ecspecially when doing thick leather like that. A good stitching horse helps so you have full control. And like said practice. I also like to poke a couple of holes so the awl is warm then rub it on some bees wax, this lubes it up a bit and makes it easier to push thru thick leather.

Good looking stuff, a little different. I like the pebbled interior with that dye job you did. Maybe a little bigger pictures next time so we can see a few more details. The one with the flap did you stitch the extra strap ontop of the strap to allow pull tabs for both in and out? If so thats a pretty good detail.

Character and patina IMHO are fine because its an actual description of something that actually happens and describes an outcome that is actually true for certain leathers so if someone thought the item would stay looking new forever they would be sorely disappointed with a vegtan wallet for example. That being said whatever works and whatever you can live with, its hard to have to many ideals when ya gotta feed the family.

I personally like when all the specs are listed first or have a tab that you can click for just specs ( 277 thread, 1/4" vegtan leather, brown dye.....), I will skip thru everything else to get this. That being said I am a ex Navy mechanic/operator and spent many years dealing with just specs and procedures. Same thing when I go shopping for say a power tool. Could care less about the story telling me what I can do with it, I want to know the power rating, electrical requirements, blade size.... People seem to fall into different categories of how they perceive things and one trick is providing for a few of these categories. I dont want to read about how the leather item takes on feelings and love from everyday use (actually read that in a description once). Thats just me though.

Do some searches on "lin cable" and you will get all kinds of good info related to leatherworking.

A 4 ft bar of 1084 goes for $20 which is enough to make several knives and a few mess ups http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/1084hc/ 1084 I would guess is similar to some of the older round knife steels although its impossible to be for sure without analysis. Yes there are better steels for knife blades but 1084 is about as easy as it gets for backyard knife making. I personally like W2 when I was forging because it was easy to forge, made a great hamon, and was honestly almost as easy to heat treat as 1084 although it did require sitting at 1800f give or take for a few minutes before quenching. Others like D2 or CPM whatever but your getting into needing a good HT oven. Oh and just a reminder HSS unless it has a specification that goes with it which correlates to the various additives in the steel it can be just about anything, remember marketing can be a little missleading when dealing with large companies that want your money and dont care about much of anything else.

Here is another listing for the same stuff which says it is .5mm http://www.sajou.fr/en/2388-waxed-linen-thread-size-40-30m-spool-colour-174-very-dark-grey.html If you look here http://www.fineleatherworking.com/linen-thread/waxed-linen-thread-ecru it will show what the lin cable sizes which are different as well but 632 equals .5mm and 832 equals the .43mm so its probably one or the other depending on the sites accuracy of measurement.

The weaver knife is probably made by dan marlin if I remember right, the state is probably texas. If I am right that is a very nice knife. He use to make them for weaver at one point in time. I have one of his knives and it is used often. The two older ones on the right the dixon and sharpleigh are probably nice blades as well. If you want them to work properly ya need to get some training or maybe some insite from that knife sharpener on how to properly sharpen and maintain the edge. I wouldnt get the dixon reprofiled just take enough down on the edge to get rid of the chips. Lots of times people will get impatient and start grinding on a blade which can kill the heat treat with a quickness.

Yep, like I said call. Or spend more for less from a fancy website.

Call goliger http://www.goligerleather.us/ you can get A grade cheaper then the B grade from SF.

The description says .45mm I believe so close to size T135 if I am reading it right (.017in)

Make sure the hook pics up the loop before changing direction. May have to bring the needle up a quarter inch on the up swing before this happens (sounds like ya were doing this) Also check the allen head bolts thru the access port where the reverse/stitch lever is (not too tight or the handle will be very hard to move). Ive also found the one in the access plate below the lever may need tightening as well. It still happens on mine occasionally but is reduced.

Just order from wickett and craig or any of the other decent places. Goliger has good prices and quality product, maverick is decent, hide house is pretty good. WC is closer to you I think then the others unless you specifically want HO leather. Oh and all the places I listed have better prices then SF for the most part.

Not just the saddle boys and girls there JLS. Just some of us dont have the blue gun Plus ya probably have to teach the saddle peoples about "tactical" and its extreme necessity (except for the ones making them tactical saddles)

Gonna have to try some reading on that, let us know if you send that email and what ya get back. I always hear/read about how this thread is better then that poly better then linen or nylon vs whatever yet when you ask specifics about how much longer they last noone actually comes back with any accurate information that can be backed up with anything. People also chime in on the shelf life of this or that but how that affects the longevity of your projects is also a question I would like to find out in reference to modern threads.

Reminds me of a barber near one of the bases I was at, guy must of been 70 yrs old and his hands shook all over the place. Scary as all heck the first time ya went there and he broke out the straight razor to finish up the cut, but that guy gave the best haircuts around and I never shed a drop of blood in his shop.

Haha I can see why ya are passing on that one Looks worse then putting together a jigsaw puzzle.

Thanks for finding out some real details Wiz.

Curious what was tweaked for the difference of being maxed out at 138 thread to 277 thread and 3/8in to 5/8in leather. Some pretty hefty differences in capabilities.

Guess either those guys are messed up or springfield leather is fluffing the cobra some http://springfieldleather.com/Cobra-Class-26 Specs seem to be all over the place.

Yeah the S needles dont do as great for thick leather or other tough materials IMHO.

Unless yours is one of the ones that requires washers to be installed to maybe make it in the same holes. Not to mention this thread is over a year old FYI.