dikman

Chris, why not just post the file in the 3D section? Then it's there for anyone who wants it.

Congratulations! There's something satisfying knowing that you have a machine that can punch through almost anything!! All you need now is an ubiquitous 3/8" upholstery-class machine for lighter duties and you'll be set.

My thought too.

Another advantage of a home-made reducer is you can tinker with the ratios by changing pulley sizes.

That's neat, Don. I would imagine the only reason it hasn't been offered is cost? Plus, of course the bog standard servo is a straight swap for either a clutch or another servo motor, no messing around.

IF it uses an optical sensor. It appears that most, if not all, of the generic servos use Hall-effect sensors, not optical now.

You may find this site useful here in Oz if you don't have any sources close to you. https://www.vardhman.com.au/

Should be more than enough, I use a 550w (well, so they say, who knows what it actually is ) Lishui Skyrit on my Seiko and it goes through whatever I put under it with #138 thread. Of course, I do have a speed reducer fitted too.

"spinny thing"......

My Skyrit's are from Lishui and I've been happy with them.

Spyros, I reckon that's pretty good for the money, and if I didn't already have a large wet-wheel grinder I'd buy one. Here's a thought, if you've got access to a lathe you could turn a wood wheel to replace one of the wheels and use it as a burnisher.

My thoughts too. It would be an interesting exercise - but only if someone gave me the motor, I wouldn't buy one just to see if it would fit!

A direct drive sounds good but a "normal" servo is perfectly adequate for my needs, simple to fit and can be fitted above or below the table. If it needs to be replaced virtually any servo can be slotted in. It also allows a speed reducer to be fitted, which will give slower speed with increased torque, something you can't do with a direct drive. My servos can also be easily swapped amongst my machines, if needed, something I couldn't do with a DD. A DD certainly looks neat but adapting one to older machines could be a bit of a pain and from my perspective not worth the trouble. It would be an interesting exercise to try setting one up but I'm happy with my setup(s) so I'm not about to try. For a garment machine they may very well be a great solution but I'm not convinced about their suitability for leatherwork. Just my thoughts on the subject.

The "generic" push-button servos work well with a small motor pulley and either a reducer or large pulley to replace the handwheel. I know you said you don't want to fit a reducer, Chris, but you may not have any choice in order to achieve what you want.

That's a LOT of stamping!!!!

Brooks, they are beautiful! In answer to the OP's question, no reason you can't use a Dremel, but make sure it's a variable speed as the fixed speed version would be too fast. I normally do my burnishing on a bench unit but I use a Dremel for small and odd-shaped areas. I made a couple of wooden attachments for this.

Bargain!!

As far as I know there is no .stl file freely available for that gear ring. The chap who made it sells the kit so is not going to give out the file.

Here's a copy of the user manual to start with - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1005412/Singer-Class-31k.html If it works with a domestic needle then it's likely that the needle bar has been re-adjusted and will need to be reset. You need to check the adjustments and timing of the needle and hook. As JJN said if you can set it to work with 135 needles then it will make life easier as they are a very common type. And in my opinion get rid of the old motor, it belongs in a museum as given its age the wiring insulation is likely to be brittle and cracking so potentially dangerous. A servo motor will make sewing much easier. There are guys on here who sew the sort of stuff you're talking about and hopefully they will chime in.

Those J. David awls are certainly beautiful looking, and yes, I'm curious how he makes them too. Slipangle, you did a nice job on those, they look great.

AmyK, unless you're into tinkering with things changing the handwheel may not be a straightforward project. You will not find a larger replacement handwheel, what you have to get is a large pulley with the same shaft diameter as the machine and then ensure it can be locked to the shaft. I have had to drill and tap more than one pulley to lock it to a shaft. If you're not keen on messing around with the gradient strips in your servo controller I think your best bet will be to sell the servo and buy a new one (I'm not aware of any newer ones that use the optical gradient control like yours). Even if you buy one of the inexpensive generic servos on ebay it should work better than the one you've got, and if you fit a box speed reducer you'll be able to make the needle crawl. If you can handle a screwdriver and spanner you should be able to fit the reducer, or get a friend with a little mechanical ability to help.

"No play in the pedal" doesn't sound right, pedal movement should move an arm on the motor controller that will vary the speed. Can you post a couple of photos? Replacing the hand-wheel with a larger pulley works well BUT it isn't usually an easy option as it requires some mechanical nous. A box reducer, as mentioned, will be the simplest to fit as it is a fairly simple job but may require new belts.

Nice solution. I like the colour on the first holster.

The usual way to join the ends is like Wiz said, basically a metal staple. Makes it easy to re-size the belt.

What he said. Very impressive.