CowboyBob

Alot of times the hole in the end of the needlebar gets elongated,loosen the needle set screw & see if it moves left to right,if so get a new needlebar.Alot of used machines we get in need them changed so it is a common problem.

You can loosen the screws that clamp on the back pressure bar & rotate the shaft counter-clockwise will fix it.

And you wonder why did a Japanese company design it that way?Which is nice since they are more in common with alot of the Singer screws.

It is a 15/64" x 40tpi

You will have a very hard time trying to find feet & some of the other parts for the 78 ,the 111w is no problem.

It makes a regular lockstitch. Parts will be very hard to find if needed for it.

Ok, put your stitch length on zero so the feed dogs aren't moving & measure the distance from the needle plate opening to the feed dog on both the front & back they need to the same distance.Look @ the hook position on page #2.In this manual.Note to everyone NEVER USE CAM ON TOP FOR HOOK TIMING! 441 Engineers manual.pdf

This screw is still tight on the shaft & this adjustment does not need to be made.If it was my machine I would leave it alone.There is also 2 other larger screws that hold it tight to the shaft so it should never move.

This is NOT where you time these machines!That adjusts when the hook starts it foward motion in relation to the needle. Look behind the round front plate on the lower rightside,you turn the machine so the needlebar is about an inch into the material & you'll see a 6mm allen in there.THIS is the timing adjustment for the hook.Lower the needlebar down all the way & turn machine handwheel towards you until it rises 5.5mm the the point of the shuttle should be @ the needle & approx a good 1/8" above the top of the eye of the needle.Like Rockyaussie mentioned check to see if the bar got pushed up first b4 you start adjusting the hook! Look @ screw #2 in the attached file.This is the one that is attached to the hook driver & the only way to adjust the timing.So re-tighten your other screws ,your machine should be OK & just use this method for re-timing. CB441 manual pg8.pdf

You might want to check these out. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html

I think the best thing to do is loosen the screws that hold the cam in place,each screw has a locking screw,so loosen the locking one first & then you can back the other one out 1/2 a turn,do this to all 4 & it should break loose.It would be pretty hard for any penetrating lube to get into the correct spot ,so this will work.Then of course you'll have to snug the screws back down & re-tighten the lock screws b4 you run it.It looks like your machine has allen screws in it.

My guess would be like most other needles they put a scarf in them so they will work in modern machines.

Do you have enough slack in to foot lift chain?

Are you holding onto the needle thread for the first 3 stitches?

I can't speak for other dealers BUT I would say anyone that is selling machines probably would or should check them.Many years ago when we were selling the Adler 205's everyone we tested seemed to sew good since they were tested when we got them so we just started shipping them w/o testing a maybe the 3rd one didn't sew when the customer received it so we decided quickly that machine ever goes out w/o being gone over (this means checking every nut,bolt & screw for tightness) we also check timing,tension & oil & test sew every machine & it doesn't matter what brand.

I checked with 2 different suppliers of parts here & they both say they are discontinued!

Hey Ray, It has 35 teeth & here's a manual. 108u20.pdf

Someone put a double needle tension on your machine & cut one of the posts off(on the rightside),you can see the marks, so when you thread it on the lower discs put it through the one on the back so the thread runs straight. I couldn't find a 1245 manual but the threading is the same as this manual which you must have right or else it wouldn't be sewing. Pfaff 141, 143, 145, 151, 153; 142, 144, 146 Instruction Manual.pdf

What size thread is this? And are you SURE it is threaded correctly & don't forget the hold your needle thread the first 3 stitches.

Yes,these screw are 1/8"x44tpi,it's possible that the PO ran them loose & the holes got enlongated & won't stay tight properly,Locktite should work work,if not you could buy a new feed bar if you can't get them to hold.

(it would be offset so you keep your current feed dog & needlebar)Tennessee Attachment here in the US can make a single foot but they would need to know your needle spacing,you could make your own by buying an extra set of double needle feet & cutting off one side.

We got $450.00 for the last 47W66 we sold.

Run the needlebar all the way down(BDC) turn the handwheel towards you so the needlebar raises 3/32" or 2.4 mm & the point of the hook should be @ the needle for it to be timed correctly.Here's the Engineers Manual JUKI 341 engineers manual.pdf

Since it isn't loosening up yet,you could try to take the head off the stand & lay it on the backside then take the thumbscrew off the head(the one that locks it so it won't rotate) & spray WD in there,you'll be able to get more in it & then spin it again.

They are good machines alittle better than a 31-15 since they have the walking(hopping) foot.If she broke a needle & it quit sewing the needlebar probably got pushed up,easy fix.They were made for leather coats & you can get cording feet for them too for upholstery.Also lookup 31-19 & 31-47 all the parts & manuals are the same.