RockyAussie

Nice lookin blade dirkba. And you get 2 cutting sides as well, just flip it over and keep on cutting.

Hi MADMAX22, The flap does loop around the keeper at back and therefore stops it from swivelling. I prefer to show of the croc for that little bit extra. I am working on some pics at the moment on how this buckle holding extension Jig is made and a couple of pics here might help to clarify. Should have the pdf finished tomorrow I think.

No I would not bother, when and if it gets too bad cut back to the d and make a new loop go right over. This will reduce the stress and can look good if well done. A bit like this belt buckle holder I mean.

Does this leather crack when you bend it over tight before any treatment? If it does I would not use it. If its just for yourself take at the studs and put in some webbing like the seat belt material.

Good point MADMAX22, I would always set my bridge area down on around a 90 degree rounded angle if doing this but it looks like the type of leather more so a problem to me. Any patterned leather would work better generally though. Re the clicker set up for line marking, I am doing a new one for 45mm (1 3/4") belts this week and will make up a how i did it pdf file and post. Previously I used a roller line marking machine and each one would take over a minute to do well and now they take between 15 and 20 seconds each.

Hep that"s it. A controlled wrinkle instead. Looks way better.

Jewellery is mostly what he is known for but he has a far bigger range than that. Neiman Marcus and Saks are among his clients I believe. I,ve seen wrought iron and leather chairs and Croc watch bands and wristbands I've made and so on. He used to go to New York every year for some months at a time so I think he would know some people there.

They look great and very saleable I think. The slicker lines I don't have anything handy that I have done that way at present but there are many methods to achieve it the slowest is with a bone slicker and ruler and rubbing in with even spacings. The prototype watch band in this poor picture shows what I mean as it was done this way. This was improved dramatically when I had the embossing plate for the name made up to include these lines. I hate sweaty watch bands and this gives airflow. The best width of line onto veg I found to be .25mm. These lines are done before gluing and attaching. I have done them on larger products one line at a time in an embossing press but multiple knives meaning clicking knives attached together and sanded down would be a lot faster again. I do this method on some things when I want the line around in a hurry. Get a clicker press you wont be sorry.

With your talent I think you should have little problem but some luck is is always a help. I do wish you well. Re the d rings could you put a bar across and right through the catch flap and reset the D's to there and turn the original bar into a small pocket? Just a thought, look up John Hardy at the green school in Bali. Ask him where to look there.

Wow that looks too good to sell. Did you not like the top handles or what?The corner work is very nice I must say. How is the job situation going in NYC?

Very nice design work the maker and owner should both be proud.

I think when I was last down there they had some good stuff but they often don't have stuff in they web page. Try ringing them. Are you able to buy as a business? Unfortunately a lot of my contacts only deal with trade and small numbers are a problem.There were a lot of different types of locks on the site you mentioned if you would pick out and copy a few of the favourite types you would like and post or PM me I will chase them up. May I ask what town your at?

Glad to see the progress YinTx and I quite like the pocket and angle on the right (rounded preferred). In your bridge section that is showing the wrinkles I would try before putting in, folding over in middle and rolling back and forth on itself to get an even crinkle effect or use a leather that does not wrinkle when folded in on itself. Lastly if you want to use a stiff bridge put several slicker lines top to bottom evenly spaced and that looks good if done right. Speed I found in numbers is mostly because it is worth spending more money on Knives for clicker presses and edging machines and so on. If you time me on one and then again on 50 it will often show I bored and going slower so keep in mind you may get faster and faster but if you have to train staff to be fast it aint easy. I doubt if you went with the T pockets it would affect any sales. A shape like this \____/ on card pockets other way up works well and is way easier.Do what you do better than others and it will show in the end.

Are they finished yet? ha ha keep havin fun.

Very good effort considering you used no lining. I think a thin lining would have made the stitching more easier to control.

Hi Josh, have you tried H. Leffler and sons in Melbourne?

To many here it is obvious but for a beginner I must point out that not only has the hammer got to not bounce but more importantly the bed your hitting down onto must have no bounce. many use 2'' marble and granite and such.

Note below pic shows the feed stone is near to level with the bell edge. If the gap on yours is too large a gap at the front you will get what your pic shows. If you have the front of your presser foot to much angled down at the front you may also be able to get this to happen but as I've said before some pictures close up of the machine would help anyone to see the problem better. These are a machine with a lot of adjustable parts and take a few years to master well and without knowing the machine and how you have it set up we would all be guessing here for end-um.

Not sure about the 4th one but does the base cylinder move up and down on a spring perhaps? I'm thinking that if there is any nail size holes in the top part, possibly you put in nails and bring the top driver down to push the nails up into inside of shoe to attach heels on. the skiver /cutter could be very useful but the rest for you not so.

Just an after thought on this. Some prolonged sharpening and the sparks produced whilst doing this means that the pvc mouth area would need some heat paint such as used on motors and stuff.

Are you sure the nickel plating has rubbed off and they have not just picked up some colour? I ask because if they held up OK to be attached together I would of thought that they would take a bit more than a slide on a table. I know from experience they can pick up dye seep and so on easily. If a good rub does not remove the colour then I guess you will have to remove them and maybe cover new ones with some clear paint or nail varnish. I have to paint for one customer a urethane paint all the snaps in her belts to match what ever the colour is and being a 2 pack trust me it is a major pain in the ....

Looks pretty nice but I'd go 1 more stitch on and over your top pockets next time.

Hi Colt, I like the deer skin lining on the strap it gives a very nice contrast. I found when using this colour in deer skin suede that it looks good with just about any other colour. I used it as a lining in some briefcases I made a while back. Unfortunately the supply here got too difficult. Here's a couple of crappy pics I took.The closure fitting is a Franzen fitting I imported from Germany I think. Hinges from Spain. Ply and timber shell from myself and I think I remembered now Why I stopped making them. TOO much bother. Has the stitching on your strap got to much top tension?

I would say any upholstery supplier should be able to help. There are many types like seat belt webbing etc. If that's close try your local wrecking yard maybe.

Very nice work Michael that should be one flashy dog. It looks like there is no adjustment for length, is it a made to fit size may I ask?