RockyAussie

You could edge coat the 2 leathers after trimming and sanding to size or what you may find easier is to fold your chrome tan in on the edges so that it ends up being slightly wider than your veg tan liner width. Then burnish the edges of your veg before sticking it to the wider outside piece. This if done well means you should not need to do any further edge work other than stitching it together. If you don't have a good edge skiving machine for the chrome tan edges you may want to put in a filler to keep a nice proud profile look. For extra durability this filler could be done with some webbing.

Looks a bit like my first efforts when I was working out how to make them. I eventually made the needle plate shaped to allow smaller gussets and stuff to run through. As in this pic - Something you can do pretty easy but the dog foot may be a whole other story.....There is not a lot of metal in the web to support this shape and CNC cutting I think you will find will not give you the strength needed to resist the pressure of the foot bending the feed dog down and into the needle plate. This is why we decided to go with the casting and hardening process as the original machine makers have as well. If you stick to the light weight work it may be alright maybe. You can do as Wiz said and use a washer instead IF you can get the right thickness to suit what adjustment is needed. Some machines can go out of adjustment and they can be hard to get every thing back where they should be. With this shim with the slot method the more in and down it goes the more the adjustment plate is angled forward and thus limiting the reverse length stitch to where it may need to be. Depending on the thickness of leather that gets used on a given job the amount that the adjustment plate needs to be angled may differ from a thinner or thicker job and this gives a quick and easy way to do any correction that may be needed. Some Adler machines along this line used an angle iron shape with adjustable pins that allowed you to limit both the forward and reverse stitch lengths. Myself... although my machine does do a good job at reverse stitching I never trust that I am going to get the needle back in the hole exactly where I want it to go so I just lift the foot and go back by hand a few times. If the machine does it it can spear and cut the threads a bit more than I do. Note: most of the stuff I make is out of crocodile and pretty high end so maybe I am over fussy.

One tip I do may help. Give your pattern (or ruler) a coat of contact glue and let it dry off until its barely tacky. This helps to stop the leather moving and pulling out that bit as the knife nears the end of the cut. When you pack your patterns away just watch to not put the contact sides together. Being wheel chair bound another thing that could help is to do your cutting on a HDPE kitchen cutting board. This enables you to spin the job around on the table without having to move your leather and pattern around. Works good when you sit on a chair to work as well.

I just put in the search term you mentioned above 1/8-40

Probably not what you're looking for but just in case

No problem. If you go to this link on the first page you can see I have uploaded the file you want.

Just checked your video and I have to warn you that you should never run your machine with the feet down and going against the feed dog. It will put a heap of scratches on your top feet which then can make a lot of scratches show up on your leather. Maybe I am a bit sensitive to it because I do a lot of glazed crocodile and I know it shows up there for sure. If you want to get even tighter stitching with the 69 Adler you might find this post interesting to have a look at -

Don't know rightly if you would call this a hand tool but I find it good to mark lines around the border of belts and other products like my wallets and such. It works by allowing you to push down a lever at the back which opens it up to put in the piece to be line marked. The big knob at the top of it allows adjustment of the spring pressure you want to apply to the roller to press down with into the leather. Once you have the leather in place you just turn the handle and roll the job through. The blue masking tape I have put on to stop any knurl marks showing up on the job. There are 3 different fence guides that can be used which can be revolved up to allow for curve type jobs or straight long jobs etc. When you fold the edges over on a wallet you can get some uneven look with the edge so by using this tool I get what looks to be a nice straight line somewhat. Some of these come with a temperature controlled heater as well but I have not really found much need for that option.

Sorry ....I am confused. If it is an Adler 69 and is not a binder version would it not be a triple feed anyway? I can not understand why the shown feet would not work?

Good looking products, good attitude, extra good video. I wish you well in the competition and whether you win it or not will not matter because you will get great exposure anyway and win in the end

Honestly....save up a bit and get yourself a bell skiver. You can use them well enough for splitting when you need to and you also then have the advantage of being able to do skived edges way quicker and easier than mucking about doing it by hand. I am doing up a manual at the moment for the new Cowboy version here in Australia and that will also come with a few " How To videos" which will assist new owners on how to use these machines. If you want to have a talk pm me a message and I will give you a call. If you check this old video I did awhile back you can see a little on how you can use a bell skiver to split leather down.-

Yeah if I remember right the first awl like that I got I could not get the blades to fit either. In frustration I ground down a screw driver which now and then I still make use of. You can get blades that do fit but being able to knock up your own comes in handy caus you can make them to suit the job better sometimes. Here's that old screwdriver one -

I came up with the same results. I hope that the model numbers have been mixed up and we are wrong. I have to say I have a few Pfaff's and I although they are great machines I could not think of any that would be suitable for this sort of normally heavy duty work. That is why I had to go look.

Wish you a very happy birthday mate

From my experience I would not try Kwik Grip as I found that it does not hang on all that well. I usually use a solvent based contact adhesive which is the type most shoe rrepaires use for sticking the soles down. As I buy it in 20 litre drums that probably does not help you much. The fabric I use is a Jacquard fabric from Tabru in Italy. It has a seal coat on one side that stops the glue from penetrating through. Prior to using that I used to get some taffeta and spray a watered down mix of pva on it to seal it. Not so nice if you want both sides nice but could be wortha try if you like. Red pink tan orange brown and black I have in stock of the Jacquard from Tabru. If you want a metre I could do it for $20.00 per lineal metre plus post. Should have mentioned that the Jacquard also does not fray at the edges when you cut it. One of the reasons our wallets last toooo long.

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Can you show me a picture or drawing of how this looks? Is one raw edge finishing with an outer edge or part ways? Contact gluing that shape may be difficult. It might be worth considering to make one up to feed straight into a sewing machine a bit like a binder does. I have not ever had any issues to date but then I never put wet contact glue straight onto them either.

Hi @Anubis78, Should be alright I think. I thought these machines came with an adjustable for width guide set up. What is not working with them? I will need to know fairly closely the thickness of strap you want when folded and the width. I see I never got around on this thread to loading any of the video's showing my guides in use so here is one now (bit long and boring but best I could come up with at the time)

Three things I can think of that may cause this....first, is the presser foot shaft well lubricated? Second, is the air supply supplying the right psi pressure to start. It may be a regulator problem. Third, as a temporary fix try and get a few drops of oil into everything that moves on the air lift cylinder. On one I have I put a few drops on the rod occasionally and that seems to soak in a swell the seal enough to keep it going for a few weeks at a time. Another thing to watch for is that the switch that activates the ram is not bypassing the air and releasing it in the wrong direction.

@TjcGoods I dug up some info on the 8020 leather splitter and the blade sharpening. I talked to owners of Cowboy Australia and found out where they get their blades sharpened. Unlike some dealers they DO get them sharpened up before they send them to the buyer. What I have to say is that if you want to get thin soft done then forget it as that will not happen well. A second blade will set you back $250 from them. The person to speak to who sharpens the blades for them is Doug Timbs (0419678571). Doug is also a fellow leather worker and knife maker as well based in Toowoomba. (Nice bloke). He charges $40.00 on these long ones and $20.00 on any of the shorter ones I believe. If it can work for you a shorter version may be better as they can run a bit truer in thickness. Some models do NOT split well and Doug can explain that better if you want to call him.

On fixed blade splitters it is common to get someone with the right sharpening gear to sharpen them up when you need it. Having 2 blades is the best way to go if you can so that you are not held up when the other is being sharpened. I will see if I can find out about the double hollow grind and who is capable of doing it and get back to you. I have a couple of band knife splitters myself but am up in the Rockhampton area. If you check with Lefflers they may be able to tell you of someone close by that can split for you. Texon Australia may know someone as well.

I and I am sure a few others here may be able to help but ....so as to not highjack this thread it would be worth starting a new thread of its own. Please post some pictures showing what you are calling a mess top and bottom as that will help to narrow down the problem. There are many different reasons that can cause a mess underneath like wrong needle wrong thread combination to start with. Remember that pictures need to be reduced in size before posting to a maximum of 1.4mb in total.

Just one more thought ...make sure that table is the pedestal type and not one that is closed off on the end. They use less room and can be tucked away better but mostly they don't stop you because the table gets in the way. A quick check on my you tube channel will show you why.

I think you are on the right track. For gun holsters and a lot of other stuff you mention you will want a cylinder machine and a big one at that. A cylinder machine can be a flat bed but a flatbed machine can not be a cylinder. Personally I am used to using a cylinder machine and almost never have a seen any worthwhile reason to put on a flat bed attachment. Even a belt I prefer to stitch on the round caus that's the way it get worn anyway. Only thing I can think to mention is that on any of these 441 type machines the smallest leather point needle they make is a 23 and that means the best smallest thread is a 138 or m20 in metric.