Rockoboy

Looks like a very serviceable repair. Well done. Ohh yeah, welcome to the funny farm!

The best system I have found for getting sales (not many in leather yet, but in woodwork, metalwork or anything I can do) is to use your network. Maybe give a couple of small items to family for birthday gifts or for whatever reason, so your name gets out there. Spread the word about what you do to family, friends, work associates, neighbours, anybody you get to talk to. I have seen some people become so over-zealous that potential customers turn off to their chatter because they know it will ALWAYS turn in to an advertising dialogue. Consider your target, tell them what you can do, then allow them to come to you. Otherwise, you might lose friends, family etc.

I am planning a new work surface when I can get rid of some other items that are 'surplus to requirements'. I am planning to make it a cutting table, but it will be a flat table so that I can pull it away from the wall, and walk right around it if I feel the need. I really like your bench, as pictured, but I see that as more of a stamping, dyeing, cutting small shapes and general purpose bench. I have had the need to cut largish hides from both sides, rather than making one edge cut then turning the hide over or cutting from the other end ... if that makes sense.

I am looking forward to seeing some of your work.

Some of our local marine trimmers have stainless snaps, that might be utilised in the way you wish. I am not sure what spec. of stainless they are, but check marine and motor trimmers in your area (if there are any).

I would suggest starting with something easy and simple, like a drink coaster or a wrist band/cuff etc. You can use almost any small detail for stamping a design or you can trace simple picture onto your leather for a design to carve. If you cut out 15 or 20 of the same small item, you will become more proficient, not expert but you will learn some things, then do some swivel knife and/or stamping. If you work on each piece until its finished (or you call it a mistake) after doing all of your pieces, you will learn some things about those processes. You can then move onto edge burnishing and finishing. Throw none of your first pieces away. Even something that you are entirely unhappy with, can be used to practise edge burnishing, dye colouring, welt making, wet forming or other things. Even a flat single piece of leather can be stitched or laced for practise or a decorative effect. The main thing to remember, IMHO, have fun with what you are doing and enjoy the time you spend creating your own personal style.

I needed to install some double cap rivets in something, but I did not have the correct length rivets. So, somebody (thank you Silverback) suggested cutting down the post. I cut the post with sharp side cutter pliers to the length I wanted, then reformed the tube so it was round, and the rivet set exactly like it was supposed to. As snaps are similar to rivets, my suggestion would be "cut that sucker down"..

PM sent.

I believe you push this idea because it is a great idea, and you are one of the good folk on this website/blog who likes to see people do well. You are quite often an inspiration to me.

Depending on the leather, I would fill the sandal with compressed newspaper then apply some sort of finish, maybe resolene or super sheen. Hopefully somebody who knows what they are talking about will be along real soon.

Using a feather is supposed to be erotic, its using a whole chicken that makes things kinky!

Hi Brian, Thank you for the zipper-fitters you sent me. I only had one zip, and the 4mm fitted it like a frog in a sock! Well done. Ohh yeah, the thread tree threading tool also works great. I made a minor modification, I drilled a hole in the handle so It can hang up where I know it will be when I need it.

I am sure I have one, but not sure of the manufacturer (and not home at the moment). If your local search is no good, I got mine from Birdsall Leather in New South Wales, Australia. If you need their email address, PM me and I will send it thru to you.

I have never heard of oil tanned. Is it possibly similar to greenhide? Then again, I am not sure if 'greenhide' is just an Australian term. All I know about greenhide is, it has lots of oil on the hide either during or after tanning, therefore it will not allow dye to penetrate.

I have found some people who have quoted me a price for something will try to tell me the price is $XX because its handmade and takes me longer, so it costs more. Then on the flipside, another person has tried to tell me the price is $XX because its made quickly with the newest fully auto machines. At the end of the day, all I am interested in "What quality is the item I am paying for and how much money in total?" If the manufacturer can produce an item of the quality and price I want, I shell out the cash. Their time or fancy machines mean nothing to me.

I know what you mean. I have broken a spring before, which I believe was because I hooked a wire onto the hook end of the spring which snapped the end off.

Ahhh. A work in progress. I have a few lots of them!

Well done. I think very little is as precious as the memories a person builds in their youth.

Pffft! Not totally worthless IMHO! Your memories brought a tear to my eye, when I remembered my Grandad showing me some things about 40years ago, that he did with leather. If you haven't been welcomed aboard already, Welcome aboard.

I have done a few things for family and friends. They get a ONE TIME OFFER on a single item, usually the first if I decide its worth it for me to do that. They know its only for them, and any subsequent items will be full price. "Mates rates" are the same as the every body else, but I go the extra distance on finish and/or quality if I can. As my leatherwork is a little rough 'still developing', this is my system with any items I make for people out of timber, steel, plastic etc etc.

If you can get in to the Tandy store, maybe they can show you how to fit the springs ... that is, if they know!

... and the hamster wheel begins to turn! Welcome aboard.

Is 5/8" MDF thick enough to support its own weight, plus whatever you place on the tabletop? I think I would have used some 2"x1"(42mmx19mm dressed) or 3"x1"(60mmx19mm dressed) around the edge to make sure it was rigid enough. Disclaimer: I am well known in my family for over-building anything I make. So what if a carry case weighs more than the item it is protecting, it works!

I can agree with what you wrote here, on some levels. I have seen some beautifully stitched belts, and the stitching will be stronger and more secure than a rivet, snap or Chicago screw. Maybe the perforations thing is an urban legend, or something that happened to one person who had stitched many lines back and forth across a belt, which subsequently failed. Maybe the changing of buckles is something, also requested once by one person, which has become some sort of "customer service initiative" that customer's don't really want. Oh well, no big deal either way IMHO, so long as the customer gets a belt that does what they want it to do. It is good to consider the other side of the discussion.

Sewing can be stronger or it can be a wear point. Stitching across a belt is like the perforations between postage stamps, just waiting to be torn apart. Personally, I like Chicago screws so the buckle can be changed or re-used when the belt needs to be renovated.