Rockoboy

I bought this exact unit recently. It is a smaller clamp compared to the one I built myself, so it has its uses. It works perfectly. Thread does not snag on the locking lever because its recessed into the frame. If they had a bigger unit, I might have bought that one as well and retired my home built pony.

It appears to me to be old, dry and damaged. Good luck with duplicating that satisfactorily.

I guess some people are too afraid of being scammed or recognised or they have some other issue with folk knowing their approximate location. That's their problem, not mine, if they don't get the assistance they would like. End of rant.

If the thin piece of black steel with the round head bolt is a blade, could it be an early edge skiver? The brass fin on the underside could be clamped in a vice, the adjustment screws could alter pressure on the guides and thereby alter the depth of cut. Leather dragged across the tool, at 90 degrees to the blade, to skive the edge. That's the best I can come up with.

I believe most of your American compatriots would recommend Ohio Travel bag, the Buckle Guy, Tandy, Springfield Leather, maybe a Google search ... have you tried any of these places? When I am searching for something, if the company I contact does not have the item, I ask if they have any idea who might be able to assist. Its surprising how many times a half-lead turns out to be a positive result. I just noticed this is a double post, so my suggestions have already been made.

That is a really good looking job. The only thing I can see that irks me a little, is the retaining strap. Personally, I would have grooved a border along the strap and around the end with the Sam Browne stud hole. Hmmm ... one thing I saw recently ... was a biker wallet with a design on it similar to yours @Treed. The design was fitted around the retaining strap where it fitted over the Sam Browne stud. Not absolutely vital, it just finished off a really well done job IMHO.

That is way cool! I am almost half way ... to thinking about what I can do before making a decision!

@zuludog I love that story. We have a similar tale in northern Australia. There's a man fishing with his wife and mother in law. Unfortunately, the mother in law falls in the river and is washed away. They immediately call the Rescue Services who come and search the area for 2 days. The family get a phone call at home from the Rescue Services Chaplain, who said she was found in deep water with a couple of huge mud crabs caught in amongst her clothing. So the guy says "Bring those crabs into town, set her back for another 24 hours, and we will go you halves in all the crabs she catches". ... and I thought it was specifically Aussie humour!

I have looked at the pile of junk that needs to be moved out of my workshop to free-up some space ... does that make it as an "actual start"?

Absolutely nothing wrong with either stitchline, that I can see. Both appear even, not over-tight or loose. I would be happy with that quality of stitching on my project.

I think @TonySFLDLTHR said Springfield had a flier out for the rest of the month. I wish they were 12,000kms closer ... I would get my boss to pay my wages direct to their bank account!

If you put a location in your profile, that might help, because I am going recommend Timbecon in Canning Vale, Western Australia ... and you are going to say "Huh?" That is a waste of my time and yours.

I reckon @JLSleather uses this emoji more than all the other folks put together!

If you are anywhere near Botany, go into Birdsall Leather. They will have everything you need, including a complete knowledge of how to do things. I think the leather in your pic, looks like pull-up leather that is designed to be scraped up and then the scrape marks fade. Its almost like a distressed look.

Maybe one part of the leather piece had some contaminant on the surface. There is probably no way you will ever be able to know if that is what happened. Its unfortunate that your 2nd strap also turned out different. If the pieces were not sealed after dye, I would suggest trying to lighten the dye or clean the surface with a solvent of some sort, or maybe saddle soap, then re-apply the dye. That's all I have, sorry.

That is a tough question. It depends on the economy of the area and the clientele. There is no way you could expect to receive the same amount for your excellent item in a lower socio-economic area, as you would ask in the rich side of town. Similarly, there is no way to assess what you should ask for your item in the Ukraine because it is for sale for $50 in Somalia or $1000 in USA. It will depend on what your market can withstand. As a starting point, maybe somebody who makes similar quality items can suggest what they would ask in their area. Maybe the value of any item you make, that has no home, is entirely linked to your assessment of its worth. I have some items that I would not sell for any price, and some that might appear to be of similar value, that I would sell for a few dollars, because the item means nothing to me from a sentimental point of view.

Can you post it on Facebook within your local area? Stipulate payment in cash on pickup only.

I use a drive punch for most of the holes I need in leather. I would think holes over 1/4" would be best made by this method. I have seen punch pliers bending because 'Magilla Gorilla' was on the handle end!

Looks like most of your basketweave is pretty straight, just a few out of sync with pattern. Stitches are fairly even. Just a couple suggestions ... on your edge and stitchline, leave the edge a little wider and cut or sand it down after stitching, so its parallel with the stitchline. If you use a camo stamp on the edge of the basketweave, you can hide the shape of the basketweave.

"Spat the dummy" means to throw a tantrum, "arvo" means afternoon (from the Aussie penchant for shortening words).

I am also not a expert in any sense of the word, but after viewing a fair number of tutorials, I have never heard of doing this. On some of my attempts at stamping and carving, I have applied the painters tape, but some I have not. I have not had any huge problems either way. Then again, I have not stamped or carved any larger areas, just around 4 - 5 inches by the same at the largest.

@immiketoo Where the carving is most pronounced, in the cheeks and nose and forehead etc, do you fill the back with anything?

That you do! Pics, or it didn't happen. Them's the rules.

The finished product looks great until a close examination of the thread. Just a little wonky there. Would your overall job come out better if the leather was 1.5 - 3.0mm smaller? It appears the join is a little squashed up. At the end of the day, still a great job that I would have no problem carrying if I needed a cane.

Excellent job. I really like the 2-tone effect.