Rockoboy

I cannot quite see the detail of the button. Maybe a Sam Brown stud ...? Other ideas? Anybody?

I don't think I have ever seen any Baron tools, but if you consider how Craftools have changed over the years, I would guess they might be the same tools made at different times. The main consideration would be in the stamp impressions. Are the similar/identical in style, quality and engraving? On the other hand, does it matter? Is one person going to have multiple Zodiac designs in their hand at one time? If you don't think they are a match, send them to me and I will keep them see if I can see any difference.

No problem from my side @RockyAussie. All that you do for folks on this site, it was a small thing that I could (try to do) for you.

Thank you for your efforts. That video and Springfield Leather Co. are both AMAZING! I have serious shop envy now!

I have used 'hair on hide' for a couple of projects, and I found that it cut exactly the same for size, but I did some judicious trimming of the hair along some of the edges. I have read somewhere, no idea where, the tanning process effectively locks in the hair. The only issue with hair can be in a high wear n tear area the hair can become thinned out as the hairs break off. I found this with a cow hide floor rug, but only in one spot where my dog liked to chew it.

I would cut the inner layer to length, but leave the outer hoop slightly oversize. Use a narrow band of contact adhesive along the top and bottom of the inner and outer hoops. Bend the inner layer around a form of the finished size, so the ends just come together. Then apply the outer layer and cut it exactly to length. This will give you a C shape cuff with an opening. Stitch the 2 straight sides on the opening, then stitch around the top and bottom of the hatchet hoop with the curved needles as recommended by @Northmount. If you can't get the rivets the way you want them with an anvil, you could stitch the belt loop on. Long nose pliers are invaluable for getting your curved needles into the tight spaces.

Still don't make any difference. No Tandy Leather within 3000kms+, but I feel your pain. The MDF I cut with a laser comes with the nuclear-powered stickers on one side!

The screen is black with a message saying "Unavailable Video can't be embedded." Yes, it does say watch on Facebook. I have an account, if I knew how to use facebook ...

Any wheels I might put under a machine would have to have a locking option IMHO. I guess that might depend on your floor surface - how easy is it for your machine to move about when you want it to stay put? If I had a good floor, I would want lockable wheels.

You bet, I wanna see the build, and what goes into it! I do like a good repurpose of junk, or home built tools and machinery.

I wish I could see the video!

I think you misspelt 'design accent to improve the product'. Excellent job all round. I don't know if I can show the wallet I am making for my son, after seeing your work!

Hmmm not sure ... does it detach or is that a production pic?

We don't have Wendy's here, but I can understand your dilemma. If its remove the adhesive, I would use a glue remover. We have a product called De-solv-it. Its made from orange oil I think. You could try a little Isopropyl Alcohol on a cloth. Alternatively, if its just to remove the tacky surface and the residue will not be visible, dust it with a little talcum powder.

All I have done is either leave it plain or I have used edge paint.

Once a person has decided on the right thickness of leather they want for their project, they need to bear in mind the type of leather. A 1.2mm veg tan cow hide leather is very different to the same thickness goat or pig or kangaroo skin. Would a thinner section of goat skin do the job, or a thicker section of ostrich skin give a better appearance and still be good for purpose? There are so many questions, and each question has multiple answers that might be correct given different circumstances. I think the OP has a good idea, but "How will people find the veritable font of all knowledge?" Anybody with any of these questions can already answer their own questions (the answers have already been given somewhere), but people do not know the questions when they start on their quest, so finding the answers is almost impossible at the outset. With experience come the knowledge of what they do not know. IMHO.

Waiting waiting waiting ...

My advice is "Do not engrave, cut or otherwise heat chrome tanned leather". Apparently it releases toxic gases into your workshop, and the gases can also deposit onto the lense of your laser and degrade (etch) the glass. Disclaimer: This is the information I have been given from somebody with a laser, who is in touch with a very knowledgeable technician.

Why do you need a pattern for an inlay? I cut a hole, cut the inlay about 1/2" bigger all round, then sew it from the back of the hole. Have I over-simplified it (cheating)? Disclaimer: I have only done a couple of items with an inlay, so I am vastly inexperienced.

Awesome work. I like the gloss on the eyes. It adds realism.

The headlamp I use takes 3 AAA batteries, and I guess I have used it for (estimated) 20hours over the last few months, because I don't always need to use it. I am still on my first set of batteries, but I do use the best batteries, IMHO, I can buy, Energiser Alkaline.

I think that one there is perfect, and the other one is ... even better!

I have terrible lighting in my workshop, and not much chance of fixing it at the moment, I have my eye on a lamp with a telescopic arm, a bit like a dentist uses, but its around $100AUD, so I am stuck with what I have. In the meantime, I use a headlamp. It get the light right where I need it.

It was suggested as a requirement a while back, that a location is including, for newbies when creating a profile. I guess the mods and admin thought it was to much info to give Big Brother.

Dymo digital scale? Might be handy for measuring out dye mixes, beeswax/lanolin/neetsfoot oil etc mixes or 2-pack glues.