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Showing results for tags 'brass'.
Found 57 results
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Hello everyone! I am looking for some suggestions on a supplier to buy buckles, rings, D-rings, snaps and rivets for dog accessories here in Canada. I am based in Montreal and in the are the only one that I know is Cuir Desrocher. I've also looked up other store in different provinces like Lonsdale leather, Longview leather and some in the US like Buckle Guy. But my problem is that I didn't find the right design or the prices are high. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you!
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This is my latest bag. It's been about a year in the making as I had to put it aside for client orders. Finally took the time to finish the handles and put it all together. Fully turned briefcase with English suit wool accents. Entirely hand stitched as always. I made the handles out of solid brass and wrapped them with leather for comfort. One exterior pocket on the gusset for pens and such and one on the body for a phone or a pair of gloves. I had thought about building it with piping, but I'm glad I didn't on this one. I like that it's clean and understated. Comments and critiques welcome.
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Hi guys, I have been a member of the group for a while and have admired everyone's work here, I am reluctant to show my own offerings but decided to take the plunge. I have been working for a couple of weeks on this English Style Briefcase, I live in the Philippines so sometimes products are difficult to get shipped here and things take longer waiting for accessories etc. The case is made of Veg tan leather with all the fittings being solid brass with a brass lock from Amiet, it has a key holder, address tag and strap with shoulder pad. The bag is 3 compartment with the first compartment having a passport/cellphone pocket and pen loops, 2nd compartment is a zipped laptop pocket and the third compartment is plain for pads, books etc. The gussets are in 3 pieces to give good fit and bend on the corners. Although I live in the Philippines and have done for 25 years, I am originally from England hence my natural preference for English style leather work. Stay safe everyone
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I made my first leather belt. It was made out of Italian veg tanned 3.6-3.8mm leather, a brass buckle and keeper. I think it turned out pretty good.
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Hello all, Not sure if this is the right section to be posting in, but it seemed the most logical. I have a large brass stamp, 10cm x 10cm. It came with an electric branding iron advertised to handle that size of brass stamp, but it does not get hot enough to properly brand the leather. It will smoke the leather, but it wont singe it like with the smaller brands. I am planning on using it on both wood and leather, but the heater I have simply wont work, by the time it gets to its maximum temperature, it starts to melt the black handle. So, either I need a cheap recommendation (under $200) for a better electric iron, or I need some advice on how to heat it up alternatively. I have heard that you can heat it up over an open flame, so I was planning on getting a butane torch from walmart and trying that out, but I am worried that I will get the brand too hot and it will burn the wood/leather too much as I have experienced in the past branding when an iron gets too hot. Is there a good method for doing this? How long to hold the flame over the brand? If the brand gets red hot, is that TOO hot? Thanks! Zayne
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Anyone looking for high quality brass buckles (for leather belts), small buckles for watch straps, saddlery items and customized hardware in a variety of finishes? Get in touch with Global Metal Company, a reliable manufacturer of bronze and brass hardware, which accepts small production runs and customized orders for items. -
Anyone looking for high quality brass buckles (for leather belts), small buckles for watch straps, saddlery items and customized hardware in a variety of finishes? Get in touch with Global Metal Company, a reliable manufacturer of bronze and brass hardware, which accepts small production runs and customized orders for items. -
Hi everyone, I wanted to share that I have many new buckles for sale in my ETSY store https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/ReliquariaMedieval . These are all authentic historical shapes, but the best part is, they are not the kind of designs you can find in the average craft store. I've been lucky enough to have a couple of fantasy armourers work with me and the buckles (and armour -wink!) look great. I've had some questions about the quality of these items - they are solid brass/bronze (depending on the amount of tin), very heavy and strong. They are cast pieces so each one is unique and you will see slight imperfections from the casting process. If there ever is a problem, I will always replace the broken piece (but of over 600 sales I've only had one broken piece). I would be honoured if you would consider using some of my items in your designs. -Ellaire Here's a couple more.
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which hardware material to buy if i dont want my metal straps or chains or d rings to change their color.... should i go for brass (i heard it develops patina n looks difgerent wz time) or plated. if so which king of coat, and what are the chances that it will change color... i want to make a soiree/ night bag of chrome tanned leather with a golden chain and straps.. thanks
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Searching for buckles like the ones pictured. Specifically looking for 0.5" x 1.25" in brass, but other sizes as well. Abbey carries them, but their cost and shipping is extremely prohibitive. Weaver and Aime carry buckles that are supposed to be 1/2", but measure as 5/8" and are too long at 1 1/2". TIA
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Hello again from North Wales. We're in lock-down again and nobody can travel so I decided to make a travel bag. Obvious really. And it's not just any travel bag. Because I'm half salmon on my mother's side, I have to find a way to swim upstream so I decided to make a bag I couldn't buy hardware for: A Gladstone bag. Yes, yes, I know you can buy Gladstone frames commercially but they looked flimsy and cheap with that 'antique brass' finish that looks nothing at all like antique brass. I made the frame first, sourcing some 1/16th" x 1" brass angle and some 1/8" x 1/2" brass strip. The hinges were ready made 'desk hinges' from a restoration company and measured 1/2" x 3" when opened. They're also 1/8" thick (or 1/4" when closed.) The hinges and frame are rivetted with traditional cold rivets that you hammer the heck out of. Hard work but strong in the ridiculously over-engineered way I happen to like. The catches for the bag are modified 1" roller buckles: The rollers were removed, along with the sides of the buckles the tongues were attached to. The shafts the rollers were around were then wrapped in pig skin to make them a tight fit under the brass straps, giving them enough friction to only move when pushed./ The straps are fitted with Chicago screws with the screw component replaced wit M3 brass countersunk screws that fit flush on the under side pf the frame. The bag itself is English Bridle Hide. 2mm for the main panel and 1.5mm for the end panels because of the need to fold. The compartment is stiffened with 1.5mm carbon fibre plates on 5 sides (including the bottom) and lined with 1mm calf suede. The edges of the main panel (originally 52cm x 110cm) were rolled and the end panels' edges were folded in and sewn through the rolled edge. This was the fiddliest sewing job I've had to date. Working inside the bag half the time, trying to find a needle sized hole in black suede in the dark... I don't recommend it as a pastime. Frame and bag are joined with glue and 13 more Chicago screws on each side. Where the handles are also screwed onto the frame, there is a 1/8" x 1/2" carbon fibre strip on the inside to provide more rigidity. The handles are 1.5mm leather stitched around a 9.5mm cowhide core. The 9.5mm cowhide is sold here for the drive belts of very old lathes and industrial sewing machines. It makes a stiff, firm filler for wrapped handles. There are four rubber feet under the bag, designed for flight cases and fixed through the carbon and leather of the base with Chicago screws again. Mistakes / lessons learned. The frame is the same width as the end panels but should have been about 3/8" wider to account for the fact it's outside of the side panels and the end panels are inside them. The result is that when the hinges lock out, the folding gussets haven't fully opened and still lean into the opening a little. The tabs on the ends of the handles are too long. I feel it would be better aesthetically if they were about 3/4" shorter. I'm considering taking them off, cutting them down just above the rivet holes and reattaching them. Where the hinges are attached, there was only 8mm of brass under them to secure the bag to, hence the two small Chicago screws either end (and either side) of the main frame. These turned out to be inadequate to hold the leather to the frame at the ends. I had to make 1.5mm x 10mm x40mm carbon reinforcing plates, cut away the lining suede and glue and screw those plates in directly under the hinges to securely trap the bag leather. I hope that as the bag gets used the leather will soften and stretch a little with bending and the stress on the screws will diminish. Stay safe. Andrew W-R
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I'm about to finalise an alphabet stamp set order with Hex n Hit stamps and want to make sure they are suitable for use with my Kwikprint machine (I have a model #55). Having a little difficulty getting clarification from the stamp maker, probably due to language barrier. If anyone knows or has used these stamps, will be much appreciated if you can comment. Cheers,
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Hello, I want to know more about brass split rings. Like what are the pros and cons compared to standard steel split rings. Why are they so expensive? And are the ones from China that are sold on ebay any good? thanks
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Looking for a full font set for my Kwikprint machine. Ideally 24pt in York or News Gothic. CAPS preferred but also interested in LC. Cheers,
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The following Webbing and Brass line 24 Snaps are for sale. Quantity and pricing are posted on the pictures. Please Note: you need to send a PM MESSAGE, leatherworker.net notifies us via email as we do NOT check the postings daily. 3" Wide natural Cotton Webbing, .125" thick Brass Line 24 Snaps Let us know what quantity you are wanting so we can let you know the cost with shipping. Thanks for looking
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I'm repairing/replacing a watch band for a family friend. I want to use the original hardware, but it's not in great shape. It's cheap brass-plated and it has some kind of ... gunk? ... on it from the old strap. I've tried a few home remedies for cleaning brass with only limited success. Should I try taking a wire brush to it? I don't want to wreck it, otherwise I'll have to buy a new buckle set, which means extra cost for the customer (and me). Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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I was moulding a leather for a saddle bags ( firs time), but it was to flat, so I didn't know what to do with this, and this happened A little dirty, cause of oiling and my little experience with painting that time. There is a place for a pocket knife and some hunting papers in a flap.
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I see a lot of leatherworkers using Japanese brass accessories, and really emphasizing that that is what they are using. What makes said hardware so superior and sought after? I came across Smoky Sumi's online store, and they have quite a selection of Japanese brass. Does anyone have any other sources? Thanks, Stephen
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I just wrapped up a gun show and had two people ask me, independently, for 1.75" belts. I agreed, thinking the larger brass keepers would be easy to find ... somewhere. I was wrong. Any idea where I can get larger brass belt keepers/loops? I could force the belts into the 1.5" keepers, but don't really want to. Something under $2 each would be nice too!
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Hello everyone ***re-posting this as i lost my pictures in the Photobucket ransom*** Here is a recent woman's bag I made using tumbled Horween Essex. The leather is about 6/7oz and slightly spongy. Its sewn at 6 spi (7 tpi) with fil au chinois linen thread; size 432 Fully lined with interior pocket. Thanks for looking -
I have a large collection of hardware I'm selling. The amount in the photo might be less than what I actually have- I noticed more pieces after I took the photos. I am NOT selling individual pieces. Each photo has the grouping of what I'm selling. Please don't ask for a selection of each group, I won't do it. I also have a ton of real snakeskin hides I'll be posting soon for sale! Email me- fastest way for a response- Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com -
I have a large collection of hardware I'm selling. The amount in the photo might be less than what I actually have- I noticed more pieces after I took the photos. I am NOT selling individual pieces. Each photo has the grouping of what I'm selling. Please don't ask to purchase a selection of each group! Email me for a quicker response- Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com I'm also selling tons of snakeskin hides soon!!!
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Hello, I am finally learning to sew a zipper into a case, a small dopp kit. I was wondering if there is any big difference between the aluminum zippers vs. brass? I like the aluminum color better, but are there any downsides in using them? To me aluminum seems like a soft metal so possibly it could fail much faster. Thanks!
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I am a huge fan of buckle guy, but I am looking for some more suppliers that offer similar quality/style without minimums. I am specifically looking for some sleek/minimal looking solid brass center bar buckles. It would also need to be a situation where I could continue to buy stock in the future, so I don't think anything on eBay or amazon would be a good choice (unless you know more than I do). Ive checked out buckleguy, OTB, leatherguy, leathersmith, weaver, zack white, tandy, springfield, brettuns... Maybe overseas? I don't know. Thanks! Zayne
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