JLSleather

maybe its just the angle? Or maybe a splice? Your lacing looks quite nice, good n tight, but was wonderin' bout this bit?

Think these were both done with 69 thread. I stopped short of the edges so i could use slightly heavier thread to attach to the wallet back. The clutch wallet liner was sewn together with 69 thread prior to assembly with calf lacing.

I have used 42, 69.

i don't know. I'm only posting here so you can clarify for the next guy... you want THREE colors in the end?

If what you do is something anybody can do, don't be surprised when anybody DOES.

yeah, I know... bit much for what it is, really. Other hand, $buck apiece, and you only need 2.... Again, if Im making the holster with snaps, I can cause the lining to suit and not need those. In this situation... $2 is a quick "fix".. Maybe somebody out yer way can get ya a couple? Cheaper if ya buy in bulk, of course. I don't remember paying that much, but been a while since I ordered some.

http://www.bluegunstore.com/clearplasticsnapprotector-line24size-1-1.aspx You can plan the lining on a new holster so you don't need these, but these are a simple work-around for a retrofit

with that rig,. prolly easiest way to gitter dunn is a straight strap, with a line 24 snap on BOTH ends2 snaps, and 2 them little plastic protector thingies, and done.

I DO use Wickett-Craig drum dyed skirting leather in black and chestnut. Stamps the very same way as "natural" tooling leather. Only thing to check is that whatever leather you get doesn't have a FINISH on it - many types of finish won't let water penetrate and may crack when stamped. W/C leather has never had that, and can be stamped, tooled, embossed, formed, ... whatever. ALL of these were done with leather that came frm W/C already dyed black

Guy might be able to use a hand awl and a curved (or short) needle to add on, but I found that 'clunky' and tedious. A guy could RIVET a strap to the holster, but I don't like rivet construction. Generally, I either cut the holster apart, add the add-on, then resew the holster... or if that's not possible, I just don't take on the task.

Not sure why this TWO YEAR OLD question popped up again, but two years later, I STILL think that Weaver press (and similar) is vastly overpriced. Not worth the money. If you're doing 10 pieces, cut them out with a knife. If you're doing hundreds, get a REAL clicker.

Some have moved to using a PLATE IN A PRESS for belts, instead of the rollers, for exactly that No matter. Certainly we'd all agree that your coloring is quite nice

Most of the stuff I make tends to be tooled to some degree, though not always and I often get asked for plain things too. As a process I really enjoy it but the look isn't for everyone. Yeah, I think no answer IS an answer "Tooled to some degree" is no answer. I could machine press a design, put a couple of knife cuts here n there, bob a couple o mulefoots in it, and call it "hand tooled" leather. It's not new - all been done before. SOMETIMES if you git wonderin' what's actually tooled, ask for something mirror image. Not rotated around by spinning the die in the press, but actually REVERSED. Or better yet, ask them to quote and do YOUR design you will provide... That said, "stamped" or "embossed" is fine - nothin' "wrong" with that. I just like to see it called what it is. Here's one that includes both...

How much of it is embossed? All of it?

Definitely cut your ostrich leg the other way, or at an angle. I know it's less efficient cutting, but when you cut lengthwise - like this - you get separation of the 'scales' - like this. When using ostrich leg (which is fine to use, BTW), always plan the layout of the cut so the 'scales' are not in line with a bend or contour, "flexing' them apart. They can bend AROUND the contour side to side (on the bird) jus' fine.

still looking at 3 layers of leather plus the gun... not seeing how that's "thinner than pancake" ... and the stiffener is kinda negated by the design, not gonna get a lot of "stiffener" from a flat piece on the front.

This has been my experience too, enough so that I try NOT to switch back and forth. Wasn't always possible due to color availability, but turns out it was for the best.... a guy should learn how to make thes minor adjustments

HF sells - or did sell, assume they stil do - a 6-ton model for pretty CHEAP. Table top size. Use a piece of steel behind a plastic stamp that size.

this is likely true. this is likely not.

I haven't done them lately, but I do base price on complexity. Some of those patterns - from STohlman's 'Top 20' book - I sold at $150-250 depending on 'stuff', such as custom coloring, etc.

this ole boy takes a bit ta git ta the point, but he does show it around the 19 minute mark of the video .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIpanSwuy4o

that looks NICE .. and no doubt a double treasure since its from Grandpa

print shop prolly do it for a dollar er two.

Close 277 and #24 needle (LL point - it matters). I've hand sewn quite a few belts, and many other items. Still do sometimes... as the situation calls. But its NEAR IMPOSSIBLE to find a GOOD sewing awl/haft these days. Everything is basically JUNK or JUNK. Yeah, yeah.. somebody will pop in to say you have to spend for the "good" ones, but I'm not one who buys into that garbage that more expensive = better. So the machines do a good bit of the work