Ferg

I bought a binder with my Consew 206 RB-5 from who, I do not remember. It came with what I am sure is intended for use on a Cylinder Arm. I removed all but what you have left on your original. Mine curved to the left where the binding material enters, which made it impossible to use. Remodeled it and made it straight. After trying it out I can see where it needs to be curved to the right. I believe with a few "Plugs" made to the dimensions needed, the metal could be molded by hand and a hammer to any width you wish. The pieces of mine look to be silver soldered together. I tried it with Kangaroo as well as commercially made binding. Works great. Well maybe not Great but I could get by with it. Other than a couple pics I don't have time to make one. I have been writing a book about my Navy Days. It takes precedence right now since it is almost finished. Ferg

Very nice. From an old man. ol

It is a bottom feed clone of the Fortuna. Most likely a CowBoy. When I was looking for one I got into a slightly testy conversation with a dealer who sold it as another Brand Name. I told him it was a CowBoy with a different paint job. He wouldn't acknowledge that. Ferg

I have refurbished and sold a couple machines. I love "Having" them much to my wife's dismay. When I sold my Seiko she said, "You aren't going to get another are you?" I have so many toys!!!!! Ferg

My family knows about the cancer bit. A brother died at 45 years, sister at 70, my mom at 65, another brother has pieces of his face and back removed every six months. Wife has battled breast cancer, she is winning now. My wife and I are empty nesters. I find without a doubt, keeping positive and saying many prayers to our dear Lord and Savior has many positives. Hang in there, we are all pulling for you. Ferg

UWE, I don't remember how many of the first versions had reverse. I am sure this could be a "RB-1. It does have the "M" size bobbin. Wiz will certainly chime in here. Ferg

I love your leather work. Coming from an old man: You are what I would wish for in any of my off-spring no matter which generation. I know your mom and dad are super proud of you and we on this forum are also. Keep up the good work and stick to the "learnin-". One day you will look at it as the best thing you ever done. Ferg

Those kits make good patterns. Ferg

Lining again: If you wish to make the lining of Pig skin that is okay. Doeskin or similar would be easier. Buy a lining leather that is already a color. You need to make another purse just like the one you have already put together from the lining leather with one exception. You only want it to be big enough to come to the top of the upper edges of your purse body. Locate on your lining where you wish to have an inside pocket. Cut a pocket of the same material as your lining, stitching it in place. If you want to make a gusset into the lining no problem. Glue the edges of the lining and gusset together with "Gel Contact Cement". Let it set overnight at least. Turn the lining wrong side out and stitch as though you were going to make a French Seam. Do not stitch across the top edges. Press the two "flaps" on either side of the stitching, down and glue them so they lay flat on either side of the previous stitch line. Turn the liner right side out, hope you put the inside pocket on the correct side of the liner Lol. Cut strips of pig, calf skin, whatever you have that is real thin, 22mm plus the thickness of your bag where the gusset is attached to outside leather. Maybe three or four millimeters. You will wrap the edges of your bag, all the way around. Do not stitch the top edges yet. Stuff the lining into the bag so it fits inside nicely. You should have enough of the lining to allow you to trim it evenly with the outside leather. When you stitch that rolled edging over the lining that is what holds it into place. When the owner of the bag wish to clean her purse out real well she can pull that lining out enough to dump all the fragments of whatever was in that purse. I am not known for giving real understandable instructions so do not hesitate to ask for clarifications if need be. Ferg

Jane, Here goes. Loosen top tension on your machine until those knots are tied inside the thickness of your leather. You are trying to accomplish so many things all at once. Baby steps first, okay? Make the flap, plus the back, plus the front of your purse all one piece. Use 4oz - 5oz raw veg tanned. Don't try to stain it. Do your carving, nice job by the way, stain or paint with acrylics on your design after the leather has dried. When the Celtic Design colors are to your liking allow them to dry for no less that 24 hours. Now, you can use Olive Oil, since I have an idea you may be more likely to have that than Neats Foot Oil, to cover the remainder of this piece of leather. Apply with a fine textured sponge, the round ones about 5 or 6 cm in diameter, are available most places. Apply lightly and try to make it even amount if you are looking for a solid color or "mess" with the oil a little bit if you want varied depth of color. Apply two coats, allow to dry so it isn't greasy. Do that until you are satisfied with the depth of brown color. Remember, the leather will darken after a few months of use. Don't place the leather piece in the sun, it may cause a problem with your paint or stain on the graphic. If you want a pocket on the outside, extend the length of the above large piece to the top edge of purse. Cut a piece of leather for your pocket and stitch it onto the front just above your fastener taking it a little below the top edge of large piece. Best way to cover the raw edges of leather on a "classy" item is to do a rolled edge. You may not wish to do that this time. Before you stitch the pocket, sand the edges with 600 grit sandpaper, the finest you have. Don't bear down when sanding. If you have some natural shoe polish or paste wood furniture wax, put some on an old piece of Blue Jean material that has been folded over itself several times. Rub the edges until you can feel them getting warm to the touch. Don't get the wax on the face of the pocket leather unless you want to rub that into it also. This can take some time so just take a deep breath and do it until the edge feels smooth. Since you have now made a pocket that does not go all the way to the edge of the purse, you have eliminated one layer of leather. The pocket can be made of a little thinner leather if you wish. The gusset should be the same as your other "Bag" leather. LINING!!!!!! Mama says she has supper ready. I will finish after.

JANE, I am in the wood shop so will not give you any detailed ideas now. When I get to my computer upstairs...... Ferg

I have made several styles of Leather Cell Phone covers. I made my own dies, yours would be more complicated and needs to be done by someone who does them all the time and with the pertinent machinery. That said: I glue the back/inside and front pieces of leather together a little larger than the die. I have them cut precisely the same. Your main die would cut the perimeter. The die made with a blunted edge for the perimeter with the punch tubes mounted. The blunt edges on the perimeter would keep the die from moving. Just as you have said above. Ferg

Mt heat press is manual 16 x 20 I wouldn't do it to mine. Just not made for that kind of use. I am sure it would work for awhile anyway. Lol

I checked that out some time ago. I think I found a company in California, don't remember any name. Google is your friend on this one. Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing may have something. I put this in Google: Spare Parts for Fortuna Skiving Machines. Several possibilities. Ferg

If I remember correctly a new Fortuna can cost from $4000 up, If the machine you are going to look at has been "Factory Used", it probably needs a new bell knife, maybe belts, and grinding wheel. Feeder may need to be changed but you maybe can clean it. The stone feeders seem to gather fine particles and "hide" them. Steel feeder can get fine particles in the grooves and do need cleaning. Hopefully the machine is powered up when you go to look at it. Take some leather scrap with you. Ferg

Your "Needle holes" are awfully large. I know the needles are much larger on the 3200 than my Consew Flat Bed. Still seems to me, those holes are huge. If the needle makes too large on the holes the thread cannot make a knot stay within the leather. I think you are on the right track with one more 1/8th of a turn on the bobbin tension. One thing that complicates tension settings, someone mentioned this before I believe, thread from different suppliers will effect your stitching as well as some colors. Black is notorious. Looks like you are using an "LL" needle. Try a straight line stitch needle such as a "P" or "S". This is 138 in 4/5 oz. Bridle with a 4/5 oz. soft Veg Tanned Cowhide on back. I selected this photo because of seemingly large holes with a soft leather as a back and contrasting color thread. If you look very close you can see an occasional knot that isn't quite pulled into the center, or is it? The leather I used has soft spots in it. When the machine goes down the stitch line there are/can be spots that are more thin than others. That can, but not always, cause some of your problems. This was stitched on my 3200. Ferg

I think if you want to sew 138 in 4/5 oz. you need a flat bed machine. Ferg

I know your frustration. My first machine came from an "Outsider". It had zilch adjustments made for leather. Wiz talked me through many problems plus I love to see how machinery and electronics work so I often take things apart to see what is going on. My wife almost had a coronary when she seen me taking our two head CNC Router apart within weeks of having it delivered. Unmatched size of thread in bobbin and on top is no biggy. Just remember the smallest thread strength is what your stitch will be. Not much difference between 207 and 277. I can sew with 92 thread but I will be the first to admit it can screw up the settings you may have had for even 138 on the 3200. I certainly do not have any direct connection with CowBoy other than owning the 3200. It is an excellent machine. I personally would hate for you to sell yours because of your frustrations. I am going to give you my personal instructions I try to follow every time I have a tension problem and I will bet 50 bucks your problems are mostly Tension settings. #1: I tighten the tension screw on the bobbin to just barely snug with the bobbin removed. Not 40 pounds snug. More like letting that little screw driver turn between your fingers just before you drop it. #2: Now, loosen the screw 1/8th turn, reinstall the bobbin. Adjust the tension discs so they feel as though they are just making the thread have a little tension on it when pulling it through. #3: Rethread the needle and bring the bobbin thread up with top thread. I assume you are holding both threads behind or slightly to the side of foot when you first begin your stitching. #4: Your first thought may be, you really do not want to fiddle with this after your previous endeavors with the machine. I promise you, this will be worth it 90% of the time. #5: Follow the procedure with the bobbin tension spring, 1/8 turn no more than three times. Do not change the upper tension. Sew several inches in the same leather you wish to use for your project each time you change the tension. #6: The knots may not be quite right so change the top tension in very small increments until they are in the center and your stitches are tight. Please let us know what transpires if you decide to do this. Some folks have told me that is too much of a bother. Isn't when you are having as much trouble as you are. I hope this helps. Ferg

I found a long time ago that my back and legs will not allow me to stand for very long periods at any machine. My first Cylinder arm was set high, as above, I couldn't change it without removing the head from the table so I just left it that way. My CowBoy is table height, my chair is hydraulic. I can adjust it to wherever I wish. Ferg

If you make earrings for pierced ears you have one immediate problem, The wires need to be safe as in no infections. Visit "Peter Maine's" website. View his jewelry. Drool. Lol Now I realize everyone doesn't have the artistic ability of Peter. Your concern for your daughter and something for her to do with her time is admirable, I have three daughters and would do almost anything for either one. I am thinking this is a very competitive area of leather working you are thinking about. I made a boat load of jewelry when first beginning in leather, 60 plus years ago. Sold very little and still have some in a cabinet to remind me not to do it again. Even Key Fobs would be better. Finishes on personal items are very complicated. So many folks are allergic to their own skin these days let alone ear wires. Ferg

BenR, First of all it appears to me that you have very little first hand experience with sewing machines in general. Your #1: The machine has a brake mechanism on it that makes moving with the fly wheel very difficult. You need to press on the left peddle to release the brake, then you can move the fly wheel. #3: You release the foot with the lever provided. It will have some resistance, not enough to hinder movement. After releasing the lever you can move the foot up and down with the right peddle, it doesn't lock. The remainder of your questions suggest that the machine was never prepped at the source or you have been messing with it, not knowing what to do. I am not trying to belittle you. Simply trying to impress on you that these machines are complicated. Fiddling with them does no good. If the seller is offering to give your money back I see that as the best alternative. He should pay the return freight. The Cowboy is an excellent machine. I have a 3200. The problems you are having need to be addressed by a professional. Did you buy this machine from one of the CowBoy Distributors that run ads at the top of the forum page? Why do I feel as though you didn't. Did you oil this machine before beginning to sew? Perhaps WIZ will jump in here. Ferg

I have never suggested this to anyone before but..... with leather that thin and if you do not need the functionality of the cylinder arm, you may get better results with a good "domestic" machine. I have a flat bed Consew I use for thin stock. It can be very frustrating some times. Ferg

Possibly your needle size. Does your project have different thicknesses of leather in the stitching path? Tension is critical when this is so. Thin leathers, as in single layer, are very difficult to keep the thread knot in the center. Even though smaller thread having less strength, is some times the only alternative. You should reset your tension to what I call "Default". Adjust the tension screw on the bobbin with no thread running through, until it is snug. Don't get carried away, you can mess this up if you make it tight. Now back the tension screw out 1/8th turn, rethread the bobbin. Machine tension should be set midway or as close as you can set it to the middle. Sew a couple inches in the thinnest leather you will have for given project. Knots may or may not be in the middle of the leather thickness. If not, repeat with the bobbin tension until the knot is in the center. Remember that very thin leather isn't sufficient to cover the knot unless you use very small thread with appropriate needle. You may need to adjust the bobbin tension two or three times before you get any improvement. Top tension may need slight adjustment after you have changed the bobbin tension several times. Ferg

The tool isn't made quite correctly. Many folks are having trouble setting these. I finally modified the tool. The portion of the tool that slips between the little brass wires inside receptacle side, is slightly too large. It deforms those little spring wires and messes up the stud.. Make sure you use the Cap Stud with the hole in the end for the portion that is the receiver. If the stud sticks through the leather more than about 1mm, it is too long. You will need to shorten it by filing some off or grinding it off. The other stud will usually "mash" inside the piece with the "bump" okay. You may have bought snap sets with a standard length of stud. For thin leather you need the short stud for the receiver. Ferg