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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Moved to used sewing machines Tom
  2. @Reacher10 I've merged your 3 posts into one. Please don't hit the post button multiple times. Let the server and internet catch up with you, give them a little time. And make sure you are editing, not starting a new post over again. Thanks, Tom
  3. Yes neetsfoot oil does darken leather all by itself. If you are using a dark dye, that may not be a problem. But if you wish to maintain the lighter original colour of the leather, don't use it. Tom
  4. There are a few threads here about trying to remove excess oil. Suggestions have been to bury it in cornstarch, floor dry, kitty litter, etc. to absorb the oil. Need to stir it around a few times a day, may take several days. I haven't seen the results from anyone that posted the question. Tom
  5. Older you get, the less you hear. One day you may not hear any snap! Machine fixed! Tom
  6. Pretty fancy! Nice job. Tom
  7. P, S or SD are better for leather. Conical point R blows out the back of the leather instead of cutting a slit. Tom
  8. I would say rotate the keeper 180 degrees so it will lay flatter when you pull the belt end through it. Tom
  9. Take a look at this chart. Needle and thread sizes, thread thickness. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Tom
  10. Thanks, just ordered a few. Tom
  11. Great work. You certainly keep busy! Where do you get the "mechanics buckle" and what does the mg call it? Have been looking for one for a while, but no success! Tom
  12. Help wanted is like the classified ads in the newspaper. It is open to members and none members. Therefore all posts made there need to be approved by a moderator/staff. Even members replies have to be approved. It does help to control spam though it hasn't been a big problem. It is easy for anyone to become a member and start spamming. However it doesn't take long for it to be reported or noticed, and the offending account gets a warning and if it continues, gets shutdown. Thanks to all who contribute to this site. It helps so many people and gives us all many new ideas to help us along in our hobbies and businesses. Tom
  13. Print up some business cards. Hand them out to everyone. Work through your friends and relatives to start with. Good work spreads by word of mouth which is some of the best advertising. Tom
  14. Bamboo skewers work well too. They are more fiberous so work better than soft wood. Glue just the same as you would with toothpicks or matches. Can sharpen them as needed to make them fit. I use what ever is conveniently located for the job at hand. All three materials work. Tom
  15. So about 19/32"
  16. For everyone's information, only moderators and up can delete posts and threads. You may report a post and explain what needs to be done to fix or delete it. Moderators are flagged when a report is made. We are keeping this thread. Tom
  17. A little moisture would help too. Tom
  18. Try an open end wrench to measure the size. (As long as it hasn't been sprung.) It won't give you measurements to a thousandths of an inch. but will at least give you size to 1/16" (or mm if you use metric). Tom
  19. I'm thinking that an 18" tray will be kind of floppy if you attempt to pick it up off the coffee table with anything much in it. Consider using a piece of plywood. Cover it with leather on both sides, glued in place. Cut a strip 2" or so wide. Glue and nail it to the plywood with upholstery tacks. Something like this would give you lots of options for decoration too. Inside could be tooled/stamped. Top edge of the side could be laced. Side could be double layer so the grain side shows on both inside and outside. Might have to try this myself for a fun project! Tom
  20. IP address indicates "Palau" as his location. I would recommend that all members of Leatherworker.net update their profiles to show their location so they can get more relevant information from those that are responding to their posts. You might even find someone near your location that you can work with or visit. Tom
  21. You could try placing a piece of card stock (or what ever cardboard you think may be the right thickness) over the stud first, then place the bur and peen it. Then cut the card stock right up to the bur, pull as much off as possible, and pick out the rest with an awl or other thin pointed tool, like a craft knife blade. Be careful in peening as too much/too tight, will make it harder to get the card stock out. A scrap piece of hard thin leather might be better, at least it has some fibres to hold it together. You maybe able to make a relief cut on one side of the hole in the scrap to make it easier to pull and work it out. Experiment on some scrap first! Tom
  22. 100 grit sand paper will work. Doesn't make deep gouges, so should not show through thin leather. Just needs to get rid of the real smooth/glossy surface. Tom
  23. Are you gluing to a smooth shiny surface? Most glues/contact cements don't adhere well to such surfaces. Smooth surfaces need to be roughened up to provide a "tooth" for the glue to hang onto. I've used water-based contact cement to cement kydex (smooth) to leather. Just roughened it up and have had no problems. Other solvent based contact cements work well too. Tom
  24. Clean it outside, don't let the mildew and any possible mold spores contaminate other leather. Clean the shed out well too. Bleach will work on the shed. Tom
  25. Make sure you keep your work piece flat on the table. If you lift the outside edge, bottom stitch will move towards the edge. I've learned the hard way! I assume you are also using an edge guide to help follow the edge too. If not, it helps most of the time. Tom
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