Northmount

Check the links listed in the OP. They state cost, date and location. Tom

They are a reaction between iron and the tannins in the leather. Just like vinegaroon used to make vegtan leather black. You can use oxalic acid or lemon juice to bleach it out. Cause is little specs, filings of iron on the surface of your wood or dropped on the leather. Keep all filings etc. away from your leather working area. Tom

If the leather is lifting with the needle, and pulling up the presser foot, you need more pressure on the presser foot to keep it down. A different batch of harder leather could have done this to you. Also, a larger needle can do it too. Don't leave any plier marks on the needle or anything in the thread path, else it will snag and damage the thread leading to what appears to be tension problems, and birds nests under the feed dogs and plate. As above posts mention, pull all the thread out and clean up around the bobbin and hook, then rethread carefully to make sure it is done right. Tom

Edit is only available for a short time after posting. So if it has timed out, continue with a new post. If there is something you really need it edited, ask a moderator. Tom

There are lots of threads here about stitching clams, and horses. Including clams with cam lock. Try a search and I'm sure you'll find all you want to know very quickly. Tom

I would think the old singer would do what you want better than a seamstress/dress making machine will. I have a techsew 2700 and a 1975 singer industrial 20-33 dress making machine. For light weight flat stuff (2 or 3 layers of 1mm each of pigskin, etc. for wallet liners), the singer does okay. The 2700 cylinder arm does better for most stuff, especially for purses where you need to be able to reach inside. I use the 2700 more than the singer. When you get a machine, get leather point needles too. They help the backside look a lot better. Call Ron at Techsew and see if he has any used machines. Tom

Great looking boots, as you usually do. Tom

We all get caught on the wrong tack sooner or later. Depends on where our thoughts are at the time. Tom

Nice job. Tom

You need to define what leather you are intending to sew. Garment weight, 3/4" harness, etc. When you decide what type of work you are doing, then you can define what machine can do the work. Techsew is in Montreal. You will get more responses in the sewing machine forum. I'll move your post there. Tom

You can't back stitch by turning the wheel backwards. The hook, bobbin, shuttle are designed to pick up the loop only in one direction. On a machine with no reverse, turn your article 180 degrees so you can stitch forward. Tom

You can buy second hand machines from the dealers too if they have one in stock that suits your needs. Some will put you on their list if they don't have one currently in stock and you can afford to wait. Tom

Best guide is for the buyer to measure his/her current comfortable belt according to your instructions. Pant sizes are not consistent, so would not be an improvement. There are several threads about this topic. Some with pictures/diagrams that you can send to your clients. Tom

Cut a willow switch. You can adjust the whippiness by trimming the skinny end. Take more off, becomes a much stiffer switch. Cheap, easy to replace! Tom

Moved to suppliers. Tom

Have missed your posts and comments. Good to see you are still around. Kids take a lot of time, but provide very long lasting and great memories. Even better than leatherwork. But is sure is nice to squeeze in a bit of time now and then. Good luck with your next move. Tom

What water did you use? Could be dissolved minerals in hard water ... if that's what was used. If so, get some distilled or demineralized water and wipe it down a few times. Tom

Here is something that works with some contact cements. Pour out some contact cement on wax paper or something you will be able to peel it off or and let it set. Wad it up and press it repeatedly against the cement you want to pick up until it lifts it off. As the surface gets dirty or less tacky, knead it some to bring new material to the surface and keep going. Works similarly to using a wad of tape to remove sticky tape residue. Tom

Take the one you are currently using apart and use the stiffener (and clip if any) in your new one. Sometimes the lowest cost is to purchase a cheap ready-made item and use it for parts. Provides examples of how it was manufactured and you get the parts that might be hard to find otherwise. Have done that for 3" 3 ring binders. Tom

Only the USA and two other very small country have not gone metric. http://gizmodo.com/5786004/these-are-the-three-countries-who-dont-use-the-metric-system There used to be the complaint that mechanics would have to buy new sets of tools, and on and on. Now when you work on a car (and many other mechanical devices), you need both sets of tools anyhow. There are certain items that will never change even under a metric system. Look at house construction. All materials are for 16" or 24" centers. Plywood will continue to be 48" by 96" other than what is available for cabinetry and such work. Pipe will always be measured in inches. Three are standards for both metric and English units pipe dimensions, but most usage defaults to English units. For conversions of inches to or from metric units, your only need to remember one number. 1" = 25.4 mm. The rest is grade 3 math. Tom

Ambassadors welcome new members and promote the site. When you begin a thread, you have the option of adding "tags" to the thread that the databases or search engines use to index and locate subjects or main topics contained in a thread. For instance, if I was making motorcycle saddles, I might add the tags motorcycle, saddle, and type or make of the motorcycle. A blog is a regularly updated website or web page, typically one run by an individual or small group, that is written in an informal or conversational style. It may be sort of an online journal about a person's daily activities, trips, or some other favorite subject. A gallery is a place to store pictures. Tom

Welcome to the forum. There sure is a lot to share and learn. Keep enjoying and share your work. Tom

Looks like a great idea. Do you have a brand name? Is it non-slip? I see some that is textured, is yours? Tom

Hi Mrs Hicks, see question for you. Tom

I'd check out the cost of blades and spacers first (and any other accessories you may need) first. Buying them separately may cost you as much or more than a new machine with a warranty. Tom