Constabulary

And here is the operators guide. Yes the € - GBP exchange rate really sucks but still worth placing an order in the UK. I`m buying 90% of my parts from College Sewing. BTW - how much do you have to pay for the 211G166 Singer 211 Operators Guide.pdf

Picture is quite small. Yes, the 2 -piece bar on the backside is for lifting the foot. Seem the machine is using a knee lifter. Since you are from Ireland I´d say College Sewing in the UK is probably a good source for 211 parts. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/Singer211G,211U,211WSewingMachineParts Seems the V-belt is missing or it it just off. I´d look if the timing belt is in good condition because replacing will cause some work. The machine has a safety clutch maybe it has relesed (you say it is now running). I have a service manual and an operators guide as PDF. Service Manual 211G165_166_265_266.pdf

Afaik the 29-4 was made in the US and the 29K4 was made in Kilbowie, Scotland. The 29 with a single digit subclass are very old. Some parts of the more modern 29K71 will work for this machine but not all. You can find older parts here: http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html I have restored a 29K1 last Christmass. The 29K1 is like the K4 but the K4 has a side wheel attachment. Maybe you are interested: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60554

I guess this is the video - it´s from LW Member gottaknow (Eric).

Screw seems to be there. This wheel is just an indicator for the stitch length. The set screw fixes the indicator wheel (or dial) on the top shaft - thats it. When you loosen the screw you can line up the numbers with the small hole on the front depending on how long your stitch length is. So at the longest stitch length of 5 SPI the 5 should show up at the small hole. The stitch length adjustment is happening on the underside of the machine - see the other thread I have linked. It is correct that the plunger goes down after a 1/2 revolution or so. There is a notch the plunger goes in and thats the point from where you can adjust the stitch length. Longer when turning the hand wheel towards you and shorter then turning the other direction. If it does not work most likely the adjuster is gummed up.

On my Singer 111 I´ve been playing around with 2 different knee lifters and a foot pedal and ended with just a longer lifting lever on my machine. This so sar works best for me. I took a lever of a Singer 211 which is longer than the standard Singer lever.

Maybe this thread will help you: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57068&page=1

How is your thread coming off the spool? The thread guide should be centered right above the thread spool and should be as high as possible so the thread is coming off w/o hanging. Have you tried leaving out one or two threading holes in the 3-hole guide? I most of the time leave out holes. Going through all the holes is for getting a possible twist out of the thread but thats not always necessary. These guides have nothing to do with thread tension in general but in some cases they can cause some tension with some sort of thread. Thats at least my experience. Just give it a try. This is how I´m using the threading holes and I have zero issues.

As a Hobbyist I personally would not buy a sewing machine with oil pump.When you are running a sewing machine in an industrial environment and have a proper trained mechanic around it´s a different story. I like the manual oiling and while doing it I´m checking my machine for smaller issues (like dirt, lint or loose screws...) so I know everything is in good oder but when you depend on an oil pump (in terms of "Fire and Forget") and it fails for some reason you are screwed (sooner or later). The post Uwe mentioned is a good warning I think. I think manual oiling or wick oiling machines are what a leather worker should look for. The Singer 211 is a nice example for a combination of manual and wick oiling. It has a system of wicks and even some external screw you can open for checking, cleaning or oiling the oil pads.

They do - the 227 takes the same feet as the Singer 111 and many others. This is a fair priced set of left and right toe feet: www.ebay.com/itm/280873808655

When you are holding down the plunger and turn the hand wheel you sooner or later you push the plunger in a notch. Then when you look at the lower shaft while turning the hand wheel the entire lower shaft with clutch and hook gears are moving. Inside the stitch length adjustment "thing" is a kind of wedge thats regulates the stitch length. But this should not throw off your timing. Is it possible that your safety clutch has released?

Glad you stitches look better now. Cleaning an oiling your machine is quite important. Size 69 to 138 thread should work w/o problem. I usually sew with 138 thread.

This looks more like a timing problem rather than a tension problem. Seems your hook is not catching the top thread. Open your bobbin cover and watch the hook while hand cranking the machine. I assume you either have to reposition your needle bar or your hook is too far a way from the needle. Or maybe the needle scarf is not facing straight right. Do you have a manual for your machine?

I´d remove the bobbin case and the tension spring and check if you there is some dirt or lint under the bobbin tension spring. Or maybe the spring is broke or has a groove and you have to replace the bobbin spring and / or the tension screw. What thread needle are you using? Have you threaded the machine correctly? Are you sure the top thread travels freely w/o getting caught somewhere? Is the thread coming off the spool straight above the center of the spool?

Thats BTW the "old type" and not the 441 clone. Glenn said he had problems with it (see 3rd post). So he probably can give some answers....

No I have never tried it and I will not try it. I can sew up to max. 9mm materials w/o problems but I seldom do. I usually sew 4-6mm with it. For thicker materials I have my Singer 133K3. The 111 is an upholstery machine and not meant for heavy leather work. Someone posted some pictures of a n oil soaked 111G156 manual somewhere but the pages were translucent so it did not help much.

The 1st stitch usually is done by hand cranking the balance wheel because you have to position the needle at the right spot and then you start sewing. With other words you always start sewing with the needle down in the material. Or is someone starting with the needle up?

I stubled over this craigslist add when I googled: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/for/5117730732.html I wish I could buy it - too cool !!!! The Luberto #9 / Classic are more or less a BUSMC #6 with barrel hook, aren´t they?

deleted

Keep the parts from the old tension assy - you never know...

I love this machine!!!!

The tension spring on the bobbin case is held by 2 screws - the left one if for tension.

New tension units are about $12 - $20 on Ebay or at about the same price at most machine delaers. These TU´s fit on many many machiens... Singer, Dürkopp, Consew, Seiko, Juki - they areall using this tension assy. Look for a Singer 111 tension assembly or tension unit and you´ll find what you need. scroll down http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=111+tension&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X111w+tension.TRS0&_nkw=111w+tension&_sacat=0

If the machines is in proper condition and set up well I´m sure it will serve you well. But keep in mind the 155 subclass has no reverse. As a newbie I´m sure the clutch motor will be too fast for you and you have to switch to an energy saving servo motor. You will have a better speed control. What you mean with "pulley to slow it down" - has it just a small motor pulley or a complete speed reducer installed? The Singer 211 is the successor of he Singer 111 but it takes the same feet. User Manual, spare parts list l and service manual should be available online.

I´d ask for the most powerful servo motor they have or can get. It should have at least 550 Watts but the more the better. I have two Servo motors with 750 Watts. I´d also ask for the smallest motor pulley they have. A small pulley gives the motor a bit more torque. I´d recommend a 40 - 50mm pulley if available. AFAIK in ZA you also have 220V power supply, right? So if they can´t supply a proper servo motor buy one from College Sewing in the UK: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/JK-561A-220V-750W=1HP-SERVO-MOTOR or with needles positioner: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/JK-561A-1-220V-750W-1-HP-SERVO-MOTOR-WITH-NEEDLE-POSITION