Constabulary

Excellent machines - you will love it! I really loved mine too but I had no work for it so I have sold it with a tear in my eye. And it is really a beast and it took a lot of space. I put it on heavy casters because and I needed it moveable due to space issues.

Adler 104 / 105 came with different stitch length adjuster levers. I guess you have the early one (pretty similar to Pfaff 145 but larger)? Please post pictures of your machine.

Sounds not like a machine issue - rather poor thread I guess. Best you can do is using linen thread (maybe even pre-waxed) on this machine. I also used polyester/cotton thread (not bonded) with no issues (have sold my machine this summer).

I´d say check with college sewing - they usually respond fast - make a video and send them a link

Your bags? Looks like you killed at least one WWII era USMC Poncho and an .30 M-1919 BMG ammo cloth belt for it... I can see some parachute hardware too...

I have no 4500 but the 45K / 45D have technically the same top tension assy - so I tried 1 1/2 and 1/2 wrap. 1/2 wrap means I just let the thread "touch" the bottom side of the tension wheel (small pulley) in the tension unit and 1 1/2 means I add a full wrap around the tension wheel. When I do 1 1/2 wraps (Singer manuals calls this: "once completely around the tension wheel") the needle is pulled to the left by the thread. I never tried 2 full wraps and I see no reason why I should do this. However - it may depend on how much tension you put on the upper and lower tension unit (the one with the pulley). I usually have a very low tension on the lower unit the way that the tension wheel (pulley) still spins while feeding the thread. And I adust my top tension only in the upper tension unit whereas Singer manuals says adjust tension on the lower unit and when tread slips on the tension wheel add tension on the upper unit... So - many ways lead to Rome - I figured the way I dot it works quite well for me. EDIT: out of curiosity I checked a 441 manual and it shows a 1 1/2 wrap.

You are right, it´s that simple and as so often in life - size matters. The size of the needle hole in the feed dog or needle plate and the needle to hook distance and the gap between needle plate notch and the small tongue on the bobbin case (or positioning finger at the Pfaff 138) have an influence on the thread thickness you can use. This is often overlooked and people think they would need a different machine or different subclass to run thicker thread. You can achieve a lot by adjusting the hook saddle. Moving it a bit to the right makes the gap between NP notch and bobbin case tongue a bit larger and therefore thicker thread can slip through. When machines have a horizontal hook (like Pfaff 138) they usually have a positioning finger that holds the hook in position and the finger can be adjusted back and forth to allow a thicker or thinner thread. This is trial and error and there is no rule of thumb of how thick the max thread can be. It depends on the original setting and of course every adjustment has its limits. But most important is the needle hole. If the hole is too small for the needle further adjustments make no sense.

Geo blocking! They have blocked IP´s from certain countries. I only can see the website by using VPN or TOR. Well these machines do no look very promising. They look like written off machines from a sewing plant. I guess most of them are sold for parts. Do not expect any support from them.

The class / subclass plate on industrial sewing machines often just tell 1/2 of the story - you never know if a machine has been modified to suit the owners needs. A different foot or different needle plate and feed dog can put a machine in a different subclass and these parts are easy to change so you never know... The clogged ZZ dial is not unusual on old Pfaff 138 and other Pfaff machines with this type of ZZ dial. Heat (carefully applied with heat gun) and penetrating oil will solve this issue. There is a YT Video on this topic.... let me check.... EDIT: Found it - its on a Pfaff 130 but the ZZ dial is pretty much the same here:

Ckeck out Renia Aqualim

2" could be a problem - 133K can handle 207 but diameter is wider, 45K can handle 207 as well but diameter is more than 3" Question is what do you want to sew and how thick is the material.

Cannot load another file into the above post so here is a parts list Pfaff 26 Parts.pdf

What is the problem with this machine - threading? You can use other manuals like Singer 31K or 96K for top threading. For bottom threading you can use the Singer 17 manual it also has a long beak shuttle (if threading is the problem) Here is a Pfaff 26 brochure if that helps. Prospekt Pfaff 26.pdf EDIT: subclass list: Pfaff 26 sub class.pdf

The Pfaff 26 is basically a Pfaff 34 with heavier hand wheel afaik. Some may have and long beak shuttle hook instead of CB hook - not sure about the subclasses. Let me check my records...

bobbin case most likely is Pfaff # 9076 - I think most drop feed Pfaff machines (and others) are using this type of bobbin case. Good luck with the machine! If you need parts (mainly used) - check Ebay Germany - if sellers do not ship overseas I can forward them if you want. Not a big deal.

Really - NM for bobbin cases? There is always someone who needs numbers for everything. Bobbin tension is no science and no one needs a table for this - there is just a freaking screw - turn it back and forth - done! Even as a novice it took me just e few trials to figure out how top and bottom tension works. its explained in all manuals I recall - even with pictures. Bottom tension as low as possible the rest is top tension and if you need a tighter stitch increase both by a 1/4 turn at a time until the know is balanced - done. You have to try it anyway so what is a NM number good for?

Maybe worth checking http://www.custom-metal.com/index.html

The blue color of the "professional" machines - in my opinion - was just marketing but I have no proof. Try to find a parts list of either machine and compare the parts numbers. That way you can find out the difference. But I don´t think there really is a major technical difference. Can´t help with the mfg year if ISMACS has no records. EX prefix is until 1965 / 66 afaik. My 29K71 serial # has an EY prefix and when I got the machine I found a stamped date on the gear box from 4 67 (no longer have the gear box as I found a nicer one) this is very unusual for these machines but I think it is close to the "real" Mfg date. So FA I guess is around late 1960´s

Try http://albest.com/

Does this work for you? https://mydhl.express.dhl/au/en/home.html#/getQuoteTab or - have you tried a shipping comparison like this? Don´t know how the comparison Co´s handle the custom things but maybe worth checking: https://www.comparecouriers.com.au/ https://au.interparcel.com/

custom fees and VAT are for sure the same but they may charge you some bucks for the custom paper work. Over here it's approx 10 - 12€ from DHL. Air freight is for sure more expensive but it is more convenient too - no driving to port, no broker (usually) no paper work... Just check with UPS or DHL Express how the import process works and what they charge and ask the seller if he can ship with them.

these parts are usually not branded so no one knows who made them and therefore its hardly possible to tell if the quality is good or not but since the parts are rather cheap (price wise) - why not giving it a try. Not much you can loose. or try ebay - same sellers I guess https://www.ebay.com/itm/162385595622

I don´t know why you (or they) choose shipping by vessel. Why not checking the DHL Express or UPS - they ship to your door and usually do the custom work when a commercial invoice is included - well at least on my side of the pond.

I described the small difference between 29K1 (and later) and 29K71 BCL here (follow the thread) https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/60554-29k1-pre-christmas-barn-find/?do=findComment&comment=390874 The 29K5x and 29K7x class have an almost identical head - the difference I recall is a pinned (+ set screw) "lifting lever shaft lever" (82081) on the 29K5x series whereas the 29K71 lever ( 82154) is just clamped an therefore adjustable so a higher foot lift can be achieved. I´m pretty confident that you can use the 29K7x BCL (82167) probably w/o any modification in you 29K53.

Glenn - I modified a BCL for a 29K71 for a 29K1 - worked w/o problem, NilonRigging did the same here. Kick me but I´m sure I once put a Singer 29K71 BCL in a Adler 30-1 a while ago. And if I recall correctly beside some moderate grinding I just needed the 2 Singer screws for attaching it (Adler 30 BCL have a different threading). When ever a 30 class crosses my way I will try it again and report back. But yes - Adler 30 part prices are nuts!