LatigoAmigo

I'm not sure how to keep it from returning other than air the hides out every once in a while. But meanwhile, I use a saddle soap foam that I buy from Amazon. Provides a very gentle cleaning.

In the link you provided, the machine was referred to as a laser engraver, so that might be all you can do with it.

This may not be the book you're thinking of, but it might hold you over. By my favorite author Bruce Grant, romel rein construction can be found starting on page 164. I am including the whole book because he references other knots in the construction of the reins. This is a scanned version of the book so it is a little hard to read, but if you like it, I would suggest you purchase a hard copy. I've seen it available through Amazon. ps. It is a fairly large file and could take a while to download. Encyclopedia_of_Rawhide_and_Leather_Braiding.pdf

In order to follow the outline, the laser's software typically has to be set to "cut" mode as opposed to "engrave" mode, and the file must be vector based as opposed to bitmapped, (which is what your files sound like, as vector based files can be enlarged without distortion). Do your machine offer the "cut" option in its user dialogue box?

There are many variations in leather, so this is probably true, but I have never seen stretch marks on the belly of any hide that I've ever owned.

You would want the insole material to lay flat, and that might be hard for the belly leather to do.

Most likely the side with the wavy edge.

In general, posting links is discouraged because they eventually "unlink" and clutter the site.

I'm watching a show right now about how long the virus lives on various surfaces. The show did not cover leather surfaces, but you should know that without a host, the virus does not live forever, so you might consider just leaving the leather alone for 14-21 days.

Thanks for sharing, it looks fantastic.

After that great description, I just had to see what it looks like...

I once found myself inside of a factory that made leather gloves. None of those machines looked "regular." I think you would want to do some research to see what would work best based on the type and weight of leather that you plan to use before you spend any money.

You might do some research in handbags. There are many books available that you might take a look at. Amazon has books on making handbags as do many fabric stores. Your local library or community college could also be good resources. The best advice I might offer is to make a prototype out of something in cardboard or fabric before you sacrifice some leather for the project.

I've had that happen a few times. A bit of a mystery, but not fatal, so I haven't given it much thought.

... and he looks great in them. Nice fit.

This is often caused by the images being too large. If you email the photos to yourself you might have the opportunity to shrink them. Now I see that there may be a problem with the file type. You might be able to convert the file using Photoshop.

Why don't you call Campbell-Randall and ask? Friendly folks.

That's why most of us are hobbyists not businesses. Stiff competition out there.

You might consider using a brayer, a hard rubber roller that print makers use to spread ink. I use one to smooth out leather that I have applied adhesive to... works great. You can find a wide selection of them on Amazon.

At Amazon, the Edge Coat is about $10 for a 4 oz. bottle, while a comparable jar of Tokonole (4+ oz,) is about $14. Not too much more money, so I'd say it is well worth a $4 investment to get the many good looking edges that jar will provide.

Lucky you. Where did you get it? What brand?

When I want to just color the edge and not worry about the finish, I use these Montana Markers, which I fill with Fiebings Pro dye. Very easy applicator, but the problem is that the dye has the tendency to bleed from the edge onto the surface, and doesn't look as finished as the Tokonole.

It was a brand new C.S. Osborne 86. It could be that I got the adjustments wrong, not sure, but I've seen other posts on this site regarding splitting chrome-tanned leather, and it appears others have the same problem. It cut through veg-tanned very easily.

I have purchased a red, high density clicker pad from Campbell-Randall. May not compete with the sale at Tandy, but very durable. http://www.campbell-randall.com/product/clicker-pads-18-x-36-x-2-in

I use a product called Tokonole, and have found it to very effectively cover the edges of chrome-tanned leather. It comes in black, brown and clear. You can find it on Amazon. It can be applied with a small brush, but I usually use a q-tip applicator. Easy to apply and cleans up with water.