CowboyBob

Ferdco's are usually good machines BUT they would buy them from a manufacture & take off the model# & makeup their own which is ok until now they closed up,their website is down & there's no way to know what you have unless you can post a pic.Or unless someone else chimes in that just happens to have the same model.

Here's a manual. class_7_one_needle_lock_stitch.pdf

Not because we are a Juki dealer but I will have to concur with Wiz the Juki is a way better built machine than the Sailrite & will sew thicker & hold up better to the stress of heavier leather,it should sew an easy 5/16" or 20 oz.

You didn't post the bobbin size,but if it's a large bobbin it would be a 287RB the B stand for large bobbin,the older 287's with a small bobbin & reverse were 287R.This looks like triple feed to me.

Glad to hear you got it going!They are a great machine for smaller thread & thinner leather.

This is a home machine.You might be able to sew some thin leather like for wallets a couple of layers of 2-3 oz. using size #46 or 69 thread.,I'm guessing 13 & 3/4" might work but measure around the pulleys with some string to be sure.There is some adjustment on the bolt that holds the motor on to tighten the belt.

You might try decreasing the travel of the check spring(raise the bracket up) & like Wiz said the timing could be alittle slow causing it to drag.

@michaelcbarr So what size & type of thread is this?

Have you tried increasing the foot pressure?

@miker It looks like this manual should work for you. CB8810_oper_man.pdf

This is the problem,you need to move the collar ( has an arrow on it & one set screw) by the bearing on the rightside so you have close to 0 movement east & west.

When you check the timing make sure you have the stitch length on 0 & also make sure the feed dog is evenly set front to back in the needle plate on 0 stitch too.

Here's a spec sheet on the 226. Consew 226R spec sheet.pdf

The 144 was in the ballpark but that 29 sure was crazy high$$,Thanks for posting the results.

Lift the pressure foot up & push the needlebar front to back,is there much play?

The 15x1 home machine needle with the flat spot will put the needle closer to the hook & might even hit causing damage to the point.

We recently had one of this in here that didn't have a flat spot on the shaft for the feed cam & when we adjusted the stitch length it would do what yours is doing.It's not too hard of a fix,mark the shaft were the screw is when it's sewing like it should then loosen the 2-screws in the cam & slide the cam to the right & grind a v-shaped slot into the shaft.Move it back & tighten the screws.

It's a 9/32x20 TPI we have them for $2.50 ea.

Good point BUT the key is prevention! I'm not saying this is the case here. But, I always stress to people when they buy one from us is to make sure to hold onto the needle thread when you start sewing. IDK how many jams it can take to break, it causes a lot of stress on the driver. So if your machine ever jams DO NOT try to use the motor to power through it, they are strong enough esp with the reducer to make this happen. Shut the motor off & turn the wheel backwards. If you can't turn the machine take the hook & race out to unclog it.

Same as the one above. rex_Chandler.pdf

They do have a good video & it really isn't that hard of a job to do,you change it & then re-time it,1/2 hr time @ the most.

Good points,but if he uses a rachet w/a extension he better hold it alittle sideways(instead of going straight in) so it doesn't strip it out as these are real tight.

Yes

Here's one I made for all 3 brands of needle & awls machines. Landis_Champion__Amer_Straight_needle_chart.pdf