CowboyBob

Dana, Yes these feet will work & we can also get these chrome plated steel feet & sell them @ a cheaper price BUT we've found so many leatherworkers often sew moist or wet leather which interacts with the chrome & makes it peel off making the steel rusty.The feet we sell as stated on our website are made of stainless steel which will never rust.

It is easier to get blades for the Landis than the Champion.

Try sewing on it w/o putting the thread through the needlebar thread guide,if it sews better you need a new guide as they many times get a groove cut in them from the thread.

In all my years of working on machines I've never seen this happen on a shoe patcher of any brand.Sounds like someone might of taken the cam by the handwheel off & re-mounted 180degrees,that is why your having so much trouble timing it.So try knocking the pin out urn it half way around put the pin back in & then re-time it again & it should work.

Nice video.Here's one from Singer back in the day.

No,we do not have the drawings anymore.

Try adjusting the stitch length,turn the knob will pushing in clockwise makes it longer (as long as the threads on the shaft aren't broken)

He's right you need a way bigger machine than a 20U which is made for sewing clothes.Look for a big Singer 7 class ,you need to use a large size #346 thread to be sure your stitching will hold on these straps.On real light duty rachet straps rated for 3-600 lbs 69 "might" work in a pinch as long as you had alot of lines 4-5" long ,close together the width of the strap probably like a 2" wide one,but the wider HD type of strap needs thicker thread.

I was testing a machine once & a needle broke,hit me in the cheek it felt like a bee sting,lucky for me no bleeding wound BUT I sure am glad to have to wear glasses.I I'd hate to think what could happen if it hit my eye.So note to all WEAR SAFETY GLASSES when sewing esp when using bigger needles & heavier leather.

The back of the foot is pushing your material into the top edge of the needle plate,you might try to loosen the foot pressure ,the best cure would be to grind off the sharpness at the top of each feed dog slot at the top edge of the needle plate like the pic shows.I know your plate has probably 3 slots so gring or file each slot & let us know how it works.

It's a hole puncher,you have to drill a hole to insert the lower tension & drill & tap a hole for the upper tension.Take-up lever is missing too.Parts for this if you can find them will be expensive.

Did you check to see that the feed cams to make sure the screw marked w/a S is in the slot? Also when you going to change the stitch length make sure the lower button is going into the groove,sometimes you have to hold the one down & turn it one way or the other so the top one will go in.Once you get them both set where they go in @ the same time,be sure to unlock the top one b4 you turn the machine or you'll have to start over.

We always use the HD hook w/o the tang for heavier sewing B1830-563-BAO

There's a page on Facebook(Chinese Shoe Patcher)for them too you might want to check out & you can read all the work that's involved to get one sewing,I've heard of a few that no matter what they do they won't sew.But for the price you can't get anything cheaper.

Put some oil all the way around it & tap the part counterclockwise with a screwdriver & small hammer.

Yes,that happened because they changed suppliers.

@yatchyman What size thread are you using?When a machine loops underneath it has nothing to do with the bobbin tension.You need to take the nut,spring & tension discs off & inspect them for dirt or grooves.I always like to rub them on sandpaper or even back & forth on a cement floor a few times & turn it 45* & rub them somemore , put it back together & let us know what happens.

If your on Facebook there's a page on them you can join & hear & see what you might have to do to get one sewing.

Let the the inside foot 3/16".

We sold them new back a good 15 yrs ago or so,we always sold plain machine & I know they were under $2K ,but this one w/a Efca motor would cost more.One just came back this week with a broken nylon feed bar in it(which I wondered how long they'll last & now I know) they are sewing leather garments for Ren-fairs on it.Parts are expensive ,not much in the after market so they need to be bought from Adler BUT afaik everything is still available,the bobbincases are close to $150.00,this feed bar with the nylon on it is $175.00.

It's a Durkopp-Adler 205-370 it will sew a good 3/4" of leather.

Landis 1 has a good shuttle and tension spring on it,it's on the shuttle so when you pull on the thread from the bobbin it should have some tension on it.

I'll agree with you,as long as the Landis 1 has a good shuttle and tension spring on it anything else that could be wrong can be fixed easily,the 97 is a different story the parts in it have alot of machining to them & would be hard to make.

As long as it works for you,we use scrap leather since we still use pennies here

The standard hook will work better with thinner home size thread & the heavier duty one doesn't have the little tang (finger)on the gib that will allow the thicker thread to release easier off it.We used to grind the tang off the standard ones when people wanted to sew heavier material with thicker thread.You can see the standard one in the pic on the left.