CowboyBob

It could be binding on the bracket behind the roller.loosen both screws alittle & lift the foot up & see if it helps,the roller just need to be barely touching it.

So is it sewing correctly now?

All the 211 & 212 I've ever seen have the stop on the tension unit.It can be added but you'll need a longer screw which is still available.

I know you just need a tension post ,this tension your showing is for a 111w & it doesn't have the check spring stop on it,you'll need to use the screw that holds the lower disc on so you can put this stop on the new one,it needs a longer screw & looking at the screw on this one on ebay I doubt they will interchange(I've never seen a phillips screw on the disc).So the best thing to do is look for part #244727 which is for the 211 if you can't find them on ebay we have them,but ours aren't made in China & will cost alittle more.

You need to turn the cam on the topshaft that drive the rods you have circled in red & blue,loosen the 2-set screws & turn alittle @ a time if it gets worse you need to turn the cam the other way.

As machines wear they stitch length will get shorter,you can check to see if there is any play front to back by pushing on the needlebar with the foot up.You can take the chrome piece off that's held on by 2 screws (that the stitch length stops against) and file the top & bottom of the slot to give it more travel which will make the stitch longer.

Here's a better parts listhttps://www.supsew.com/download/Mitsubishi/Mitsubishi LT2-2230.pdf with the # for the BIT model the feed dog is #MN52K1104,plate MN52K1101,foot MN26K1105,ndl clamp MN57K1102 ,if I remember correctly no other brand will interchange.We can order them if you want.

Yes,the 67 is a small bobbin but any of these the 67,167,267 -373 are walking foot & needlefeed.

It means it has the walking foot & needlefeed,as they also make machine this in a needlefeed only model.

If you don't want to take a chance to cut the weave of the canvas a round point would work best.

Hey Jeff,That looks GREAT!!

Yes,someone else must of painted it then ,I never painted over any labels on any machine I painted!

Cowboy sewing machines can come with different motors on them depending where you buy them,so if this manual isn't correct for you post a pic & make & model # of your motor. CSM1000.pdf

Did you know that back in the day these needle guides were sold in different size holes in them to match the needle size?

The Rex machines took the 135x17 needles which is what we always adjusted the Singer 16's to use slightly shorter BUT at least you can get them in any size you want for sewing leather or cloth.

You can make shims easily,they do not need to be a full circle.Just get a piece of business card,cut into narrow strips,1/4" long & use some grease or vasoline to hold them on the backside 4 short strips would work.BUT since the OP's shuttle is hitting the hook he should take it apart & clean behind the shim as there might be some thread behind it pushing it out.

Try the S point needle which is only available in system 134-35 which is 1 mm shorter & may require lowering the needlebar slightly.

It looks like the kit only fits an Adler or Pfaff,the flexible nozzle should work,we made them out of 1/4" copper tubing & fastened them to the end plate.

Yrs ago we sold some Juki 563's to a place that sewed binding on them & they wanted to go fast,the thread was burning when they stopped so we rigged up an airline that aimed @ the lower part of the needle when it was all the way up & it worked.But the air was blowing all the time.

I've never seen or heard of a model 16,but have seen alot of 17's & know it's not a 17,this has gears on the bobbin winder & like you said the tension is different than a 17.This one has what looks to be a thread lube on the front too that the 17's don't have.

Sight unseen it will be hard for me to pinpoint the problem so I can only let you know what to check.First tilt it back & push the handle down & make sure no screws are loose collars connected to the lever otherwise it won't be making it's full travel down.someone may have been adjusting the screws marked by the screwdriver,make sure the upper one is all the way out,they may have loosen the clamp on this & turned the whole piece. & the same thing goes for the other clamp with a big screw an inch to the left of the last adjustment. HTH

Here you go. 45Kmanual.pdf 45K21.pdf

Good machines,we sold alot of them back in the day.

Years ago all Consews were made by Seiko,if he looks underneath he'll find Seiko cast in the metal.

"I can get it back in, but it never seems to be in the right orientation in regards to when the needle comes down. " The finger holds it from spinning & once you put it on & it's in between the grooves of part # 10 it shouldn't spin.Once in a while the finger can get bent so it isn't seated far enough to hold it properly it could spin out while sewing,but it needs to have enough clearance so the thread can pass though it. ,You also should oil the hook,just a drop everytime you change the bobbin or start sewing after it's been setting(just a drop will do)