kgg

I have to agree with Eric on the polyester thread. It is much nicer to use, not as stiff, comes off the spool more evenly as well as nicer bobbin winding / unwinding particularly as it nears the end. I use thread sizes #69, #92 and occasionally #138 depending on the dog related item. I have found that Coats bonded polyester #69 is standing up better to bleach then the #69 bonded nylon does. Example would be our incontinence pads 27" x 50" ( takes two to cover bottom of our 4' x 4'-6" HDPE whelping box). Constructed with waterproof ripstop, muslin, absorbent middle and ripstop binding on edges were washed / dried once a day in a heavy bleach concentration for 8 weeks straight. The result was no fraying or thread failures on any of the 24 incontinence pads unlike nylon thread the only problem was some colour fading of the ripstop. kgg

You have adjusted top thread tensions and bobbin tensions have you checked to see if when you do reverse for back tacking that the needle actually follows back in the same holes. Like Wiz and Michiel have suggested that it may a timing issue. Do a quick test with no thread in the needle using a sheet of paper under the presser feet. Hand wheel through a few stitches then reverse and see if the needle falls through those forward stitches. The needle should go through the same holes.

You said you have tried different tension setting. I am assuming you were talking about the top thread. Have you checked the bottom thread tension? If not try adjusting the bobbin tension. To get the tension right on your bobbin thread in a flatbed machine and I am sure it would probably be similar in a cylinder machine. Thread the bobbin to about 80 percent and make sure it is inserted in the case so the thread comes off the bobbin in the correct direction. Then what I would do is: with the bobbin in the case but before it is placed in the machine. Pull out about 6 inches and hold the end of the tread and let the bobbin / case rest flat in your other hand. If the bobbin spins easily in the case tighten the thread tension spring screw. If you can lift the bobbin and case off your hand with no thread coming off the bobbin then loosen the thread tension spring screw on the case. I like the bobbin case to stand up and the bobbin move sightly but not spin easily in the case. Try a test piece holding both threads for first couple of stitches, back tack and adjust tensions accordingly if neccessary. Also every time you change thread size, type or manufacturer of thread check the bobbin thread and top thread tensions. kgg

That is wonderful, great workmanship and giving back the joy / relaxation that shooting provides to this person. As always necessity is the mother of invention. kgg

I agree with Wiz and if you want to eliminate the monotonous effort of hand stitching and increase your productivity then you are going to need a heavy duty stitcher. Increase your budget and purchase something with capabilities a little above what you need now for future projects. kgg

I prefer to just do the prep work for all the items first which I fine a real pain in the ...... then leave it for a day. Start fresh and then bang them out in one stretch. kgg

Do a quick test with no thread in the needle.Place a sheet of paper under the presser feet and hand wheel through a seam of a dozen stitches then measure. They should all be consistent spacing. It maybe 6.2mm with no load but as the thickness / toughness of the material increases may be less. kgg

Any chance of showing the thread path from the spool of thread to the bobbin tension discs onto the bobbin winder. kgg

I agree with R8R for the money I would look at a new machine. Not one that in the worst case was hammered to death in a factory environment unless the price was really, really good and you could do the repairs yourself. I would look at a new machine not necessarily with all the fancy do da's but a machine that would do the job plus a little bit for future. My thought is the more computer controlled features the more expensive the maintenance / repairs down the road and parts are going to be expensive.

I think all you need to do is make sure the needle is at its highest point and hand wheel it a touch more. With some machines you will hear a slight click of the thread being let go. To get the tension right on your bobbin thread in a flatbed machine and I am sure it would probably be similar in a cylinder machine what I do is: with the bobbin in the case but before it is placed in the machine. Pull out about 6 inches and hold the end of the tread and let the bobbin / case rest flat in your other hand. If the bobbin spins easily in the case tighten the thread tension spring screw. If you can lift the bobbin and case off your hand with no thread coming off the bobbin then loosen the thread tension spring screw on the case. I like the bobbin case to stand up and the bobbin spin sightly not spin easily in the case. Also only thread the bobbin to about 80 percent and make sure it is inserted in the case so the thread comes off the bobbin in the right direction. kgg

I wonder does the tariff apply just to sewing machines made in China that are shipped directly to the US verses machines made in China shipped to Canada branded by a seller and then shipped to the US. kgg

Overall very nice, clean to the point, price right there under each item and pages load fast. My threshold is under 3 seconds load-time or I'm gone. I would suggest: 1. Providing contact info like address and phone number. 2. Reduce information about the type of leather used. If you use "Wickett & Craig full-grain leather" put it on the front page rather then in each item unless you use something different.

In my last posts I said ' (where there are two threads) " it should have said (the large guide just below where there are two threads in the guide). kgg

In your last photo there is a thread retaining screw, spring and flat plate that is missing in the last large guide before the needle (where there are two threads). This holds the thread flat against the guide before the thread goes through the guide hole just above the needle. I think this is to keep the thread in a consistent position during up and down stroke of the needle so it don't flap around.

Just to add to my previous post. How I check the tension on my Juki 1541S is with the bobbin in the case I pull out about 6 inches and hold the end of the tread and let the bobbin / case rest flat in my other hand. I then try to lift the works up by the thread. If the bobbin case and bobbin doesn't stand up vertically and the works remain flat in my hand with the bobbin spinning easily I tighten the thread tension spring screw. If it lifts off my hand with no thread coming off the bobbin, I loosen the thread tension spring screw. I like the bobbin case to stand up and the bobbin spin with a little resistance in the case. I only thread the bobbin to about 80 percent. kgg

Could be as simple as a bad spool of thread with the thread on the spool temporarily binding or uneven unravelling from spool. I think the size of needle may also being playing a factor, 18 or 20 g depending on thickness of material). I have had the problem when I over loaded the bobbin combined with incorrectly threading the bobbin. I needed to adjust the stop on the bobbin winder and re thread a fresh bobbin correctly ( in through the hole of the bobbin disc bracket from the spool, around the disc, out through the same hole then to the bobbin case on the winder. A couple photos of your top threading may help to spot something.

looks nice kgg

All joking aside, I do think that you are going to have a uphill struggle with a lot of work to try and make the table as well as the table top look acceptable, properly balance the weight of the machine (I think would be in the 80 lb plus range) and must importantly work properly / safely. Unless you have the equipment and skill to make the necessary changes I would return it to the seller and wait the double of weeks for the proper one that will safely fit your machine. kgg

Na if it was made in Canada probably boy scout, blunt pocket knife, a bottle of Red Bull in one hand and a toke in the other. kgg

I would as Jimi said talk to the seller as from the photo's the flatbed attachment is of poor workmanship, looks like someone's first rough cut. Also I don't think the main table is the correct table for that machine as it looks as if the front of the base is slightly over hanging the edge. Overall it looks like someone had a regular flatbed K frame sewing table that they hacked out the middle and tried to reuse the scrap. What machine is this, I think it is a clone of the Juki LS 1341. kgg

I think if you haven't changed the threading path of the thread from the photo the problem is when you threaded the top post tension pin in the second hole then going back up to the first hole before you then threaded the thread into the second hole of the second guide then went directly in the little circular tension guide just before the main thread tensioner. When you threaded through the small circular guide did the thread click in place? Is there a large amount of tension on the thread after the thread passes through the small circular guide? I think you may have a top thread tension issue contributed to by the thread path before your main tensioner which may explain why there doesn't seem to be enough slack in the thread so the top thread is lifting the material to get slack. kgg

You could maybe sew a patch over or behind the hole with similar leather and put a false pocket flap over it to match the other pocket flap. kgg

With a name and date of birth it would be easy to get an address and then magically become that person to do who knows what. Sometimes it pays to be a little paranoid and ask what for. A friend of mine had his identity stolen from a old electricians licence which back in the day had his social insurance number on it. Name, address, social insurance number bingo. He had a hell of a time getting it sorted out. kgg

I agree with Gregg forget the particle board table tops they will not give you longevity, the surface top will lift more easily from the particle board, twist more with humidity changes and are not as strong as plywood constructed tops. Inexpensive alternative? Maybe. kgg

If you have a good frame you would only need to only buy a top which would save a few bucks. I would also check Atlas Levy as well. http://www.atlaslevy.com/Complete-Table-Stand-For-Industrial-Sewing-Machines-Standard-_p_599.html