mike02130

If you want to go fancy high-end, Rocky Mountain Leather Supply carries a lot of the same leather famous European makers use. They sell panels by the square foot and will also split leather. The best watch strap lining is Zermatt from Tannery Haas. It is what Hermes uses for their strap lining. It is "mineral tanned" and is supposedly sweat, water and stink proof. Watch band making is pretty finnicky work.

There are feet available with a roller. I bought one off Amazon, I think it's 18mm. I also bought a clear sheet of sticky-backed tape that I stuck on my 50mm foot. They both work well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08W8QZ2G7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032AM6I4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ahh, you want the old thumb slide punch, huh? What size thumb? You may want to be more specific. I'm guessing that you want to punch two round holes and cut between them.

Hmm, well obviously you did not ask such a simple question, did you? Perhaps a back story would've helped? I really don't give a damn where you buy the machine. I tried to help you out by telling you that you can buy a Techsew machine in the USA for $1,450 including delivery. Your lack of information did not make it clear that you have some alternative reason to buy in Canada. I recommend that you ask on a different forum. It really is not that difficult to find that information.

I own and have tried most stones available. Different stones for different steels. The stones I use mostly are DMT diamond stones (not the mesh). They are two sided--coarse/extra course and fine/extra fine. I prefer the 6". They are relatively inexpensive and can be used dry but I prefer water. The DMTs will work well on carbon and tool steels like D2 and the like. The water stones and Arkansas and others aren't tough enough for D2. After using the extra fine DMT I go to to a Spyderco white "Ultrafine" ceramic stone. I use a piece of MDF with white compound for stropping the harder steels and green compound for carbon. Go to bladeforums.com for the best information. I own some fancy Japanese water stones but I only use them on my high carbon steel Japanese kitchen knives.

Did you not search Google? So many variables. Why buy from Canada and not USA? I see them from USA sellers for $1,450 including delivery.

Rocky Mountain Leather will sell half goatskins. It's not on their site but email them to order.

Zermatt leather from Tannery Haas is the best for the lining against the skin. It is hypoallergenic and is sweat and waterproof. Just because a skiving knife cuts leather easily, it doesn't mean it is truly sharp enough to skive leather. Mark the edge of your blade with a black marker and and pull it across a strop or a piece of cardboard with some sharpening compound on it and see if the marker disappears.

https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/skiving-cutting-knives/products/japanese-skiving-utility-knife-shirogami-smoke-razor-sharp Sold Out but this is an excellent knife.

Did you buy this new or used? The deburring rod is just for deburring, not sharpening and especially not beveling. If it were mine, I would grind the blade back to get past that inner bevel--or at least most of it--then deburr it properly. That would be quite a lot of grinding. Don't over heat the blade. Hell, maybe you're better off buying a new blade? Of course, I may not know what I'm talking about?

There's a guy on Etsy, he's in Poland. Do the math and report back here, please. I can't say for a fact but I've been told that Alran does not split their leather. https://www.etsy.com/shop/fianoleather?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=993276123

Oh, so now you tell us? No more click bait?

Very very Swedish.

Personally I don't care for a knife/tool roll because of it's bulk and the room you need to open it up. I make blade sheaths that just slip over the blade, leaving the handle exposed. Carry them in a leather bag that you can toss other things in, too.

A salesman that comes to your door is working for his money. I think this guy is just plain sleazy asking for money on this forum. If he were a war veteran with a disability I would be happy to support him. As far as "just moving on", it's like a gruesome car wreck that one just has to take a look.

I just picked up a Cobra NP4 bell skiver. Can anyone explain to me the uses for the different feet? This will be the first of many questions. Thank you.

Black, of course. Brass leaves a brassy smell on your fingers. Black looks cooler, too. I've been wondering about those. I'd like you give a review after using them.

Take a knife or a chisel and cut a shim (wedge) from a scrap of wood and glue in there.

Yeah I realize we all use "different methods". I'm not criticizing. Maybe I wasn't specific enough? I should've asked why. I would think that when the wallet was open it would place a lot of stress and pull on the interior. I'm hoping to learn something here. I'm not arguing.

What do you make that you would use a 60 degree jig? When I make wallets I use a 90 degree jig.

You'd be better off ordering some horse butt strips and make your own; a crap load. I've always used contact cement on a piece of nice plywood or MDF. Horse has more silicates than cow leather and is thicker and denser. The Dialux is a good brand. I use the green for carbon blades and white for harder steels like D2. The flesh side of horse gets the compound, the grain side gets nothing. There is excellent information at bladeforums.com. I only use leather for pocket knives. For my leather and woodworking tools I use a piece of MDF.

USA https://jayhardtke.com/

Skip the beveler. Put your piece flat on a table edge and burnish with water or what have you and work the edge and the corner that you would normally bevel. Flip it over and do the other side. You could maybe use sandpaper. When lining, cut the lining larger and attach then trim it too size. Usually when one lines something they use edge paint rather than burnishing. Of course it depends on what you are making and with what leather.

Did you skin those animals on the computer screen? They would make good gloves.

On veg tan one can put a dab of solvent based contact cement on the pattern and wait until it is tacky then apply to the leather. First test on a scrap. On chevre and some chrome tan, I use double sided tape. I've never had an issue. On my veg tan I use a poster board pattern and use Scotch tape. I cut right through the tape. Sometimes I'll add a binder clip to a cut side or two. I prefer the two tape methods best.