chuck123wapati

first question yes that's what I meant lol you can google cross draw knife sheath for examples. Second question - that will work just remember leather wont stretch much so if you intend to have the back of the sheath flat then make sure you have enough leather on the front piece to wrap around and mold like you intend. A good way to mold your front piece is to cut a larger than necessary piece for the front wet it then tack it down to a board using the shears as the mold when it is dry you can trim it to the shape you want. Start at the toe of the sheath and work your way up both sides and around the handle tacking it along the intended stitch line. Use small brass brads the steel nails will discolor the leather and wrap your shears in plastic wrap to prevent rust.

if you don't mind the handles sticking out from your body a bit then just make the sheath front stop at the top of the blades leaving the handles exposed. If you dont like the handles protruding make a cross draw style with a cant so the sheath so the sheath can be worn on the left and the handles turned inward towards your body. Or you can make like this one, found on the net.

it doesn't get much better than that. Really nice work

great lookin knives indeed!

Heck yea very cool!

I do something like this too. I use a 1/2" strap around the holder, kinda tight but not to tight to tuck the flap into.

Now that's a good idea!

http://sportsmansvintagepress.com/3-screw-ruger-blackhawk/ heres some good info on your question about black hawks. https://gunblast.com/Ruger-NewVaquero.htm

Native Americans used buffalo or Moose for their moc soles. I have also seen folks use sole leather for mocs.

this place has the ones with the military eagle http://blockaderunner.com/Catalog/catpg27.htm

Greetings back from South Central Wyoming. I look forward to your tips and tricks I plan on doing something with some of the many hides I give away every year so possibly would ask you a few Raw hide type questions lol.

me too and I cant access my account

I think Dikman means to put the epoxy inside the handle so you can center it. Knife makers and tool makers both do this routinely to The only person that can will ever know your handle is off center is you I cant see the problem at all. OR you can simply glue a dowel back inside the hole and redrill it!

cool video!

I have never used it for leather. glue up a couple pieces of scrap and see how it works.

yup we all have to remember the old masters made most of their tools. There was a time when tools couldn't be bought good or bad. I have no problem with Tandy tools but some of the new cheapo Chinese made knock offs are useless. Those are nice belts!

I agree with Tugadude also and adding my two cents to the conversation get your self a good set of hands free magnifying glasses so you don't jack up your new awl when sharpening it.

pretty cool ! did you cover that set screw with something so it wont wear on the finish of the firearm?

yes I agree go for it ! I make a cell phone holster that simply slips into your waist band so it can be worn with any type of britches belt or not. It has a large piece of leather that just slides into waist. It would work well I think.

I use old Christmas clothing boxes. you can but them cheaply at any dollar store or poster board is the same stuff. I have found its easier to make my patterns by hand then scan and save them after you get all the bugs worked out. I make the first scan and save then I can reprint and modify until its correct. A lot of people use programs but then spend their time learning the program not the leather work, then they have to update and relearn then at some point the program gets jacked and.... update relearn, update relearn.... well its just a pain in the a** to me. MY opinion only!

I m gonna build this! Thanks for posting!!!!! Came out pretty darn good.

IWb holster with the cell phone outside the waistband for added concealment.

I was at my local thrift store and found about 4 brand new leg immobilizers, those things that get strapped on you when you get a knee operation. That's what I am useing for padding for straps and slings. They are made out of polyester wadding with a layer of cotton on one side and synthetic fabric on the other and are about 3/8" thick when sewn in. When they run out I plan on using the ploy wadding for quilts as it wont break down as bad as foam IMO.

I've used a leather bracer I made for well over 20 years you don't need to harden it because you will want it to shape itself around the arm so the edge doesn't catch the string,which really hurts, it will self form naturally with the body heat and what little sweat it absorbes. just finish it and maybe use a little bit of neats foot oil on it, that bow string wont hurt it a bit. I used a waterproofing mix on mine, snow seal or febriengs mink oil don't remember which so I could use it hunting as well. It didn't ever get really wet but sometimes they get some rain on em. Bye the way it is beautiful work!!!!

the coloring looks like air brush work to me with three colors of brown, tan and natural. I cant tell how the words were done maybe branded in or stamped then burned or dyed with a small brush