TomE

https://campbell-randall.com/product/fcf-317-fenice-colorfast-leather-dye-317-metallic-pearl-1-liter-1

Welcome. Hand sewing and using a machine are complementary skills and both are useful for making tack. I hand sew bridles and reins, and (mostly) machine sew halters. I do most repairs by hand sewing to reuse the original holes. You can gain a lot of experience with cutting, shaping, and finishing leather projects that you hand sew. A machine will greatly increase your productivity for some items. A lot of tack and holster makers use a TSC-441 type machine like the Cowboy 3200/4500 or Cobra Class 3/4. You can read in this forum about some recently available accessories for these machines that enable sewing of lighter weight projects as well. I suggest reading the Al Stohlman books on hand sewing leather, leather tools use/maintenance, and case making as an introduction to construction methods. Videos from JH Leather show traditional methods of strapwork, including making bridles and headstalls. Lots of expertise and great information on this site.

I would agree about avoiding petroleum products for my work. As a point of information Al and Ann Stohlman mention in their Encyclopedia of Saddle Making that they used a lot of neatsfoot compound (mix of neatsfoot oil and petroleum based oils) without any bad effects, recognizing that pure neatsfoot oil is best but expensive. Leather is exposed to a whole lot of unnatural chemicals during the tanning and currying processes, so for me it's more about chemistry than nature. Here's an old monograph on the chemistry of leather. I don't think the process has changed much in 70 yrs. Phillips-1954-THE CHEMISTRY OF LEATHER.pdf

Those are works of art! What is your process for coloring/finishing the skins? I am interested in your thoughts about using rivets in a sheath. Are they copper or brass? I apologize if you've already had that discussion on this forum - I can use the search function. Thanks for posting.

From everything I’ve read the Cowboy 4500 is the same machine as the Class 4 I use. I picked mine up from Springfield Leather and saved the shipping.cost. Members of this forum have taught me how to use and maintain my machine. The cost of the leather I’ve run through my machine in 2.5 years is approaching the cost of the sewing machine and I expect it to last for many more years. I don’t think you can go wrong with either machine.

Ed LaBarre has 3 books on tooling leaves at this site https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product/natures-majestic-oaks-and-other-leaves-book-ed-labarre/

This is Bob Kovar's member profile https://leatherworker.net/forum/profile/7185-cowboybob/. You can also call him at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine.

I'm starting to tool leather again after a 45 yr hiatus so I understand about the knife feeling awkward. I would make sure your knife is sharp and polished, and check out the pinned post by @hidepounder about casing leather.

I learned today that the narrow presser feet from @Patrick1 also do a nice job of sewing tight against hardware where the material thickness increases. I have used the Cobra needle foot and double presser foot for this job and it requires some finesse to feed the material without slipping on the slope leading up to the hardware. The narrow feet hold the material firmly and walk right up the slope with less hands on guiding. This noseband is 2-3 layers of 10-11 oz bridle leather. I am using a #25 needle and 277/207 thread with @RockyAussie's narrow plate/dog.

Thanks, @RockyAussie. That post is fascinating. I'll check out modifying a soldering iron for hot wax. I'd only seen the small/expensive versions for leveling edge coat on watch straps, etc. Will be another fun experiment. I'll be sewing that halter today using your narrow plate/dog. Really appreciate you passing along your expertise.

Good stuff about the leather trades across the pond! I’m a big fan of the old books on harness and saddlery in the UK, and the equestrian related books published by J.A. Allen. The Martins Mix looks/smells like floor wax but it works well. The edge will accept dye after burnishing with the mix, and the hot wax soaks in nicely. It seems to eliminate most of the surface imperfections I get burnishing with water and saddle soap - and no sanding needed. The edge is firm and smooth without beeswax but I think the wax is a nice touch for tack.

After several years, I think I am settling on a method to finish the edges of tack made with bridle leather. My first project turned a gray horse brown when she was hosed off wearing a halter I made. Since then I've learned a few things about finishing leather from members of this forum and others, and I thought I would share them with the hope that I will learn some more. Thanks for looking. I appreciate your comments and suggestions.

Bevel up or down, depending on your style and the project. For these swells I skive with the bevel up, and thin both edges of the strap to the thickness of the grain. This cheap knockoff (Dujiso) of a Japanese knife holds an edge reasonably well and cost ~$10. Someday I'll buy a real knife.

Table vinegar covers a range of acetic acid concentrations. Might need stronger acid and more time. In the laboratory we used glacial (pure) acetic acid that was diluted with water.

Will look forward to seeing those saddles. I’ve read a fair amount about English saddlery and dream of making a jumping saddle with an experienced saddler. For now, I am focusing on tack. Florida to Montana sounds like an adventure.

You're welcome. Loop making has become a bad habit - I make bridles. The loops are "blocked" on a hardwood loop stick or loop iron. Abbey England sells sets of both sticks and irons. Bruce Johnson has a set of acetal loop sticks that are thicker and work well for running loops that fit around 2 strap thicknesses. https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/loop-sticks-and-loop-irons-sale/

Thanks for the tip. I ordered a copy and look forward to learning about it.

That's a beauty! The oak leaves are a standout and the sling looks like a top quality job. One idea for the keepers is to bevel the inside edges (flesh side), skive the ends and overlap them. Run 2 lines of stitching using a single needle backstitch. This is known as a running loop in harness and bridlework.

I think it was my post in that group that triggered the Admin's missive about the accessories for 441 clones. I did a similar post of the same video on this forum. It was rather confusing because the Admin said there is no need for these alternative feet, feed dogs, etc. yet he said he has made modified presser feet himself to solve problems. He said one machine cannot do everything (no one disputes this) and that using a 441 for finer work was like using a dump truck when you needed a wheelbarrow. Pretty sure he's never used the accessories in question. Pretty sure I don't have the space or budget for a second sewing machine. I would have enjoyed learning about alternative approaches that the Admin has used but his post didn't include anything specific or instructive. I am delighted with the 441 accessories I have purchased from @RockyAussie, @CowboyBob, and @Patrick1. They are game changers that extend the range of projects I can sew on a 441 clone. I also like the stock feet, plates, etc. that came with my machine. Each item has its strengths and limitations and together they create an awesome toolbox for sewing. I'd like to thank the many experienced members of this forum for providing me with accurate information and advice, and for keeping an open mind to different approaches to leathercrafting. This forum has been a wonderful resource to help me restart my leathercrafting after a ~45 year break. I'm having a lot of fun as a result.

A sharp round knife makes quick work of strap points, and one size fits all widths. See the bit in this video about cutting an egg point (English point). Steadying the knife against the edge of a clicker/poly board and drawing the leather across the blade makes it relatively easy to make symmetrical curves with a bit of practice. I'd spend the money on a power burnisher with a sanding drum to touch up the shapes. If I do use a strap end punch then I sand the transition to the straight edge to get the shape right.

@joebetoblame the website is https://heprecision.com/.

Congratulations! I made the same trek several years ago and have really enjoyed the Class 4. I recommend watching Uwe Grosse's videos on adjusting the hook timing and the walking foot mechanism. Also, if you can find a digital copy of the Juki TSC-441 engineer's manual it is a good complement to the instructions that come with the machine. Have fun!

Well that was fun! Thanks for sharing. I too am a vet (ISU '83) but spent my career doing scientific research. After retiring, I've been learning some vet medicine while managing our horse breeding farm. Having fun with leatherwork on the side and trying to spread the joy with gifts of tack to friends, trainers, and clients.

Over-oiled tack develops a sticky/gummy feel on the surface, and the temper is mushy - it loses shape. The only thing it solves is providing an excuse to buy new tack. The "nice floppiness" that @simo289 is looking for would likely be achieved by using high quality veg tan that is appropriately oiled and conditioned then allowed to break in.

“Hot oiling” is apparently a thing with some folks who restore western saddles. Neatsfoot oil will turn good tack to sticky mush if you apply too much, like dunking in oil for an extended period. The effect is permanent from what I’ve seen.