Gezzer

He didn't give much info as to what it's on or how out of square , so my mind runs to is there enough room to square the leather to the tracing ? Yea I know it seems obvious that this is a stupid question but .....................................................................

This is a Penrose triangle and for the life of me I don't know where to bevel

Nice , looks like you got your backgrounding thing sorted out or is this a different process ?

Looks good !!! That is a lot of hand stitching

Welcome !!!

well I am still trying to figure out the shading , this is just oiled and sealed

Makes perfect sense , I just lack enough knowhow and an eye for ( well a lot of things ) the shading . Thanks for your help as always

@fredk You are THE MAN What's up with the croc teeth ................... are we running low on crocs ?

We all need to have this carved in stone Mine hides stuff all the time and has a blast watching me look for it !!

@tsunkasapa Thanks ! I got a ways to go on the pear shading ..... off now to watch some youtube

Quick look at DAP website mentions the high heat resistance of the landau ,which is not needed in most leather projects . That might be the reason it's not mentioned (used ) much , just a guess on my part .

How long is a piece of rope ....... I haven't used anything but Fiebings , but I am guessing that the difference will just come down to personal preference .

Looks good !!!

Ok , finished up and it turned out pretty good . Not exactly what I had seen in my minds eye but real close . Looks like I need to work on my pear shading though .

I'll offer this with very limited experience , dip dye will be the best even result . By all means I would NOT try the whole side , I would break it down to just over the finished size . Use a pair of tweezers to hold it and if it doesn't dye under the point of hold cut off that little bit . Try 1 piece at the finished size , I will bet the dye will still work under the point of hold . I think I have dipped 3 or 4 items so you may want to wait on someone with more experience

@DJole Thank you ! @tsunkasapa Thank you !! Little more dye , when it is dry just antique and seal

I was going for orange but didn't quite make it . I am going to have to get some Eco-Flo water based dye ( I have 3 colors of Fiebings and like those but can' t get enough colors out of them ) This will be close enough for proof of concept . Still a couple or 3 more steps ..... boy I hope this don't flop

Well with fall here I decided to do a some leaf practice . I am going ahead and post this carving as I haven't started to finish yet . I think that's THINK I have come uo with a cool way to finish it . I will post it up as I go and it will either work and look good or be a TOTAL mess . Either way I show it . May take a few days to get 'r done !

OUTSTANDING !!!! Huw did you tool the border ? Is that the end of a basket stamp ?

Like everyone else epoxy is the fix . In the third pic , is that not a makers mark on the flat of the blade ? If it is I guess you have already done a internet search , might yield some info might not . Top is normal for most lathe turned items , whether home made or factory . Some tool makers will sand it off and some won't .

Thanks , I could not make it out but it turns out it wouldn't have mattered ...... I'm barely fluent in English let alone Latiin Very nice motto and sounds like you used it very well !!!!! Again nice work .

Thank you !

Does anyone do it before tooling and is there any benefit ? Top grain not edges .

What he said .