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Hey all, As you may have already assumed from the title of my post, I am a fresh newcomer to the leather crafting scene and I could not be more excited. I have always been one to work with my hands, as I loved wood working at an early age. Now that I have graduated college and am about to start my new career in corporate America, I thought I could use a new hobby as an outlet from my full time job. I was first interested in leathercraft when I stumbled upon a company called Bellroy, which designs and manufactures really cool minimalist leather wallets. I decided that I would like to make wallets somewhat similar to the ones on their website and potentially start a brand of my own. http://bellroy.com/wallets/note-sleeve-wallet <-- Another Example Aside from these types of wallets, the only other items I would really be interested in making someday would be tablet/laptop/phone cases and notebooks. I do not expect to be able to make any of these items at the start of my long voyage, as I am aware that practice makes perfect, particularly with leathercraft. Now that you have a good idea where I am coming from and where I want to go, here are the main questions I have for all of you: 1. Which (if any) of the popular leathercrafting starter kits would be worth purchasing, knowing that I am really only interested in crafting wallets, cases and notebooks? I know the tandy leather deluxe kit is widely recommended, but I am unsure that would be the best kit for me to get. 2. If you don't think i should buy a starter kit, could you recommend the necessary tools i will need to start my work? 3. What types of leather would you recommend for making wallets similar to the ones on the Bellroy website? I understand that I probably should not be experimenting with more expensive and higher quality leathers, but I would love to know for my personal research and future usage. 4. What type of leather should I use for experimenting while learning the craft? Thanks in advance to all those who reply! The support I have seen from this forum is incredible and I hope to contribute myself later down the line. I was planning on taking a class or two for professional guidance, but I could not find any in my area within a reasonable budget.
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I feel like I need to make sure that my expectations are reasonable regard to quality and wholesale price of raw vegetable tanned leather. For about a year now, I have been buying (as a Gold member) Tandy's 8-9 oz. European bends for about $80 each. I purchased 3 of these bends about 45 days ago at that price. Today, I learned that my prices went from $80 each to $150 each. I use the European bends because I require super clean stock for the products that I make. The European bends are roughly 30" x 50" with about 10% waste max on the hides that I buy (every 3rd piece in the store is superb quality, and those are the ones I get). I realize that the drought last year caused some fluctuation in the market, but did prices double within just a few months? Another issue—which might just be on the local level—is I feel like I have to HAGGLE to get competitive prices. One example: Springfield sells quart Fiebing's for $30 retail, Tandy for $40 retail (elite is $30). Their snaps are like $50 for 100, which I have managed to get for $18/100 on a price match. I'm getting weary of dealing with Tandy. How can the expect a future if they only cater to the hobbyists? Am I unreasonable? Please help me if I'm way off here. I really want to be realistic.
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Hello! I am attempting my first boot top purse for a customer and have seen several that other shops have made in person but cannot figure out what they have used for the bottom of the purse that is sturdy. I will be covering the bottom with chap leather and not just sewing the boot top bottoms together. I have seen a purse that had upholstery tacks pressed into the bottom to keep the bottom covering on but had no idea if it was heavy leather or cardboard, etc underneath. My question is, what does everyone use for purse bottoms and why? I am looking for something that is sturdy but not too heavy. Thanks in advance!
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I have been racking my brain for the past few months and I have not been able to come up with a name that I am satisfied with for my one-man leatherworking operation. I really would just like some filler words, for example: mercantile, brand, works, goods, etc... I would love to use my last name (Petty), but unfortunately, the word "petty" also has a definition in the dictionary that is synonomous with lesser quality. But if I could insert a filler word, so that "Petty" isnt describing the type of leather, or the type of operation I am running, that would be ideal. Something like "Petty (insert word here) leather goods". Or am I just over-thinking this? Because, at the same time, I think that anyone with common sense would realize that no one in their right mind would use a negative word like "petty" to describe their own product, so they must come to the conclusion that "petty" is a surname. Am I right? I don't know! Does anyone have any good ideas? What are some common generic words people use in their leather company names, or even words that people use in the trade business? Thanks Zayne
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Hello people of the leatherworking types. I'm new to the site and still pretty brand new to leatherworking but I love it and want some more of it. I'm making a big change soon and will be moving to Pennsylvania from Florida. Florida has a Tandy Leather Factory right there but as I'm going someplace new I'll have to start hunting for a new place, or since my GF's dad likes to hunt just figure out how to tan leather from what he's hunting. Either way I'll be posting non stop looking for tools and supplies seeing as most of mine were stolen. I look forward to getting to know a community that loves what I love: Making things from dead animal skins. Will
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Hi, Posted on here a while back but couldn't retrieve my login details so here I am with a new account. Hoping I can get some expert opinion on what is going wrong with my Cobra Class 18. Basically we are having tension issues every few seconds while using it. We will be stitching and there will be a small 'thump' from the machine which will result in the tension going slightly off and showing an inconsistent stitch. The stitching is for a product that we are trying to sell and we can have these issues constantly keep being a problem. We've fought with this issue since we got it and after having a technician come and try and address things on two occasions, and helping temporarily, the same issue keeps coming back. The tech that came said it could be the servo motor and would recommend removal as a fix............ I've made a video (apologies for my drab presenting style!) to show the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjTBUKUask4 and would welcome anybody's opinion on what might be going wrong (what I might be doing wrong) and how I can permanently fix it. All I need is a 100% consistent stitch. Nothing fancy. The video is deliberately non public on YouTube and only accessible via the link in this post. I'm conscious that Cobra is run by good people and I don't want to be detrimental to them, but I still need a solution. I'm not out to adversely impact anyone. This is super frustrating and is holding us back. Any help, no matter how small, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance from the UK. Grant
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Hello everyone! Could anybody help me and share an opinion on how to use neatsfoot oil? I am trying to make a purse (size 180 mm x 207 mm) using veg tanned leather. The problem is: I’m afraid to overuse the oil (so the leather will appear to be greasy) or to underuse it (resulting in dry and cracked leather in future). Any advice will be highly appreciated!)
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I made my first wallet today, which is my second finished leather project to date. I designed It myself. I know it is nowhere near perfect, and I have learned a lot in the process, but I still have a few questions: Im pretty sure the reason why the dye on the edge transferred to the other side of the wallet on the inside is because I didnt do a final burnish with some gum trag (second picture). As far as I know that helps the dye from bleeding/transferring. Am I right? The wallet is really thick, probably because I used what I am assuming is around 3 oz leather (I dont have a thickness gauge, I should probably pick one up) It wont stay shut by itself. What oz leather do you think would be best for this style wallet? To finish the wallet, I applied a couple of coats of neatsfoot oil, then topped it off with 50/50 acryllic resolene (only on the outside), and then some obenaufs leather preservative(also only on the outside). However, I didnt do any of this until after I stitched it all together. Is that the recommended process, or should I have done something different? I dont really like the glossy looking finish you can see on the outside (you can see in the third picture). What do you think is giving it that look? I like leather that looks more satin than glossy. I also noticed the color on the backside has a slightly pinkish hue. Is there anyway to remedy that without using dye? I know, I ask a lot of questions. I am a perfectionist, and as you can probably guess, I am pretty frustrated with the outcome of this wallet. Thanks! Zayne -
So... I'm trying to wrap my head around this new machine I picked up two weeks ago. It's a Pfaff 335-H3 (I'm not sure what the "H3" designation represents). The Motor is a Efka Variostop. I'm not sure of the year on either, but it all looks to be original. So far with very little fuss I have it stitching nicely with a 22 Needle and 138 thread. My intent is to use it for wallets, totes, case, etc. So here are my questions... Efka Variospeed - Is this a positive or just a pain in the rear for a newbie? It's not too difficult to get it to run slow, but still I wonder if it would be better to just go ahead and get a new servo motor? I read in a desperate post that the variostop motor adds to the value significantly. Is that correct? Air Compressor - There's a weird air compressor type deal attached to the motor. I believe it controls the position of the pressed feet, but I don’t see how to adjust it (see next question). It even looks like I can hook up my larger compressor to it, but I’m not sure that’s a good idea. So... Is nematic hookup a positive thing or just more trouble for me to deal with?Only one Pedal - Pressing back on the pedal raises the raises the center presser foot and needle, but the outter feet remain down. I have to use the left handle to raise both feet and release the materials. Is this correct? Is there a way to adjust this function? Accessories… Roller Guide to be Specific - I understood there to be lots of different accessories for these machines, but I’m at a loss with finding them. Anyone know where I can get a roller guide for this model? Since I’m VERY new to using a sewing machine, the guide will help tremendously. New Pressor Feet - These presser feet have teeth, and it marks the oil tanned leather I've run through it so far. Should/can I buy new smooth feet or is it just easier to file them down? If I file the teeth down, is there anything I should be aware of? Value - I hoping you all can make me feel better about my purchase… What would you estimate the value of this machine to be as is with the Variostop motor? I think I got a great deal on it, but think it could really be a stunning machine with a little attention. The local industrial machine shop quoted me about $250 to have a new servo motor installed, and the machine tuned. Is it worth the cash? Pictures of the machine are below. As always… Thanks for the help and feedback! This is a great resource.
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Looking to learn. Looking to make my own clothing and pass the skill to others I believe this is my calling. No Tools, No knowledge, Just myself.
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Hello, I am new to the world of leather working and look forward to learning my new hobby! I look forward to sharing my projects with you all. I hope if I have any questions I can ask any of you veterans for advice! I have gone through the forums and see many helpful people on here. I have seen some amazing work on here and hope one day to be as good as most of you on here. My first project will be a knife sheath for a Bowie knife that I made with a antler bone handle. I bought a variety of leather tools for a basic beginning and hope to gather more as my experience grows. Does anyone on here have any cool sheath ideas for a bowie?
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Hello! I have just purchased my first TechSew 3650 HD (super excited about it by the way) and am planning on making headstalls, breastcollars, halters, etc. I have previously been using an old Singer that has done a great job, just ready to move up to the big leagues. I have heard about using a "saddle stitch" and a regular stitch.... what is the difference between the two? What is the typical thread size, stitch length, needle size that I should use for heavy harness leather from about 11-16oz thick for my tack? I have the needle that came with the machine, I believe they are 27 (if I am remembering correctly) and 207 thread. I remember there being a post about this but I cannot seem to find it to save my life. Any help you would provide would be great! Thank you so much!
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I got roped into leatherworking a few weeks ago by stumbling into Tandy's videos by George Hurst on Youtube and said "This is for me!" I'm so glad I did! I ran out and bought their ultimate set and a pile of other stuff and books (ok maybe too much? lol but I figure I'll learn as I go along). Anyway, I made a few coasters from the kit following the instructions and then got ready to do the dyes. I chose to do what he did - use super shene as a resist on the center flower and the border. The only problem is it did NOT come out like his. The resist did do SOMETHING... but not nearly what it did in his video I'm still satisfied the piece looks good for a first time noob but I want to get it like his and I followed the directions to the letter (or so I thought). I applied a generous coat of super shene with a brush. I let it dry over 30 min. I applied another coat. I let it sit overnight to be absolutely certain it was ready to resist. Using a dauber (like George Hurst did), I generously applied the same dye he did (Hi-Lite in Briar Brown). I then used what he did, a folded up paper towel to wipe off the excess. See the results in the photos. His has TONS of contrast and mine looks like the resist hardly did anything. I then tried the same thing with Eco Flo block and got the same results I did with super shene. I am disappointed and don't know of anything I did wrong unless his results are a camera trick or some kind of Voodoo I don't know about yet and was left out of the video?! Please show pity and help the noob! PS: In his youtube video on making leather cuffs - he uses same two chemicals and his brown is WAY darker than mine and his resisted area is WAY lighter. UGH HELP! -
Hi, Does anyone know of leather working classes offered in the greater Metro-Detroit area? I've googled and used google maps to search but haven't found anything.
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Good morning! I am a beginning leatherworker and purchased a Singer 15 sewing machine a few months ago and it had been doing a fantastic job stitching leather of all thicknesses, single and double ply, up to 15 oz and as thin as 2 oz. Recently I have been having immense difficulty with two things on it. 1. The thread spacing is erratic sometimes even on leather that is exactly the same thickness the whole way, it may stem from the second problem I am having though. I have checked the thread spacing screw and it is tight and has not moved from the position it has always been in (~6-8 stitches per inch). Is this due to having too large of a needle? 2. The presser foot periodically will lift up with my leather when the needle is coming back up through the leather to go to the next stitch and will also miss locking the stitch. I have backed out and adjusted the tension on the presser foot all the way down as far as it can go. Previously this would be so tight that the leather would not even move when you tried to advance a stitch. Now it is so loose that the needle can easily pick up the leather when it is coming back through. I am mainly making headstalls, breastcollars, halters and spur straps, using 13-15oz leather, what type of thread and size needle should I be using? Does anyone have any experience with these machines? I would like to see if I can figure out what is going on with it before I take it in to a shop we have here in town that *might* be able to fix it. I would love to purchase a more professional machine, but money is tight right now and I am already farther than I would rather be in the hole with starting my leather business up. However if anyone has a used machine that works well still that they are looking to sell please let me know! Thank you sooo much for any help that you can give! Christina -
I just picked up my very first sewing machine. I've been hand stitching everything (satchels, bags, wallets, belts, cases, etc.) for the last 2 years and decided it was time to step up. I bought from a local dealer - Bogle-Greenwell. I was able to do some test runs with it on some belt scraps. Its stitching well, but I have noticed a couple of things... 1) The feed dogs (on bottom) are leaving teeth marks on the rear of my material 2) The presser feet (on top) are also leaving marks (smoother than whats's happening on the bottom, but marks none the less) 3) The stitching on the bottom side is clean - there are no loops, but it doesn't look nearly as nice as the top. I apologize if the vocabulary is a little off - I'm not yet up to speed on all the sewing maching terminology yet... But I'll get there. If any of your pros could point me in a good direction to fixing these issues I would greatly appreciate it. Also, if you can refer me to any good reference materials - books, videos, etc. - on how to use this machine that would help too. Honestly, while I figured out how to thread the needle, I don't even understand how to wind the bobbin or replace it yet. So... Your help is definitely needed. Thanks.
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Hello! I am looking for someone to help mentor me either one on one of via pictures and email, I have searched high and low in Central Oregon and have been turned down by the few people I have asked if they would consider giving me a lesson or two to improve my skills. I am completely self taught with the help of Tandy videos, books, and YouTube. I have attached an example of my work here. To me it is starting to look very good, but as I am a perfectionist, I would really really appreciate help and advice from someone who is in the leather industry professionally. My main focus is on horse tack, spur straps, maybe a purse or two. I am not very creative so drawing my own patterns is hard for me but I am starting to get a little better in that regard! Any help would be amazing from drawing patterns, choosing leather for my projects, casing and tooling, managing and selling my work, or anything really! I know I need work on casing and when to start making swivel knife cuts and carving, making my swivel knife cuts flow as well as bevelling evenly, I have been working on "walking" the tool around my design, and appropriate use of other various tools. My designs always look better after I have dyed or finished them than when they do natural with just the tooling. I would love to someday make a custom saddle, even if that is the only one I ever make I realize that this takes time from your day that you could be making money, however, it is such a priviledge to learn from someone who is excellent at what they do, I would love the opportunity and I am very willing to put in the work that it takes to better my skills. Thanks so much! Christina
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I'm working on making a replica of a holster my grandfather had for a SA revolver years ago. It was made by George Lawrence, but I've been unable to find any holster of the same model. Finding a holster for my Dragoon has been a nightmare and they are way too costly, so I decided to fashion a replica styled after this one. For the belt loop, there is a section the wraps around which has been held together with lace. I measured the lace and it is 1mm thick by 5.5mm width. I've been unable to find anything like it. Can anyone help to determine where I can find something like this? It looks like latigo but feels much stronger than the normal stuff at 3/4oz weight. Could it be 5/6oz that has been split? I'll post a better picture tomorrow, but it is a George Lawrence 7 1/2 SA with no tooling. -Anders -
I thought i had it under control, but I am in desperate need of help. Its a cardholder. I dyed it black (sprite-based dye, 3 coats), let it dry over night, buff it, applied satin sheen (two coats) and buffed it (no dye is coming of). But, when I buff it with a wet cloth, the dye comes off. I cant have the dye coming off, it will ruing the clothes. What I am doing wrong? What I am to do? How can I seal this? I have leather grease, satin sheen and Resolene at my disposal. (I try to avoid resolene due to the shine it gives) This is my first real commission and I really want it to be perfect, and I am suppose to ship it out tomorrow! Any help is deeply appreciated! /Nicklas -
Hello everyone! Looking for some advice on cylinder sewing machines. I make leather handbags and I have a reliable 8600B machine. I want to expand my line with barrel bags for everyday use and bicycles. My line is pretty utilitarian with a sense of everyday fashion. Some of my bags that I make now are almost impossible to make without climbing into them; I need a cylinder machine badly. I would be using leather in the 4-6oz. range. I looked at the Techsew 2800 and was wondering if anyone can give me any insight to their opinion. I like the price of the machine which is $1,700. Looked at an Adler but I can't afford it. I also have a consew flat bed sewing machine that is probably about 30 years old and is amazing. I was going to check that brand out. I really want to stay under $2,000 but don't want to buy the wrong machine. I would definitely appreciate some experienced info on a cylinder bed walking foot for medium weight fabrics! Thank You!!!
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How do I achieve a light oil finish on my tack? I love the way it looks but have never been able to find a dye light enough to achieve the look I want. Any step by step pointers would be fantastic! I am also trying to find a place to buy thick leather to make 1 ply headstalls, breastcollars, etc. I have some light saddle skirting but it is just too thin and I have to make them two ply. Any suggestions on where to find good leather for this would be great. Of course as I am just starting out making tack, the smaller pieces I can find that still work are usually the cheapest so the better Thanks in advance! CW
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I am currently working on a briefcase/messenger bag and am currently struggling with the pattern design. This is my second bag and it is quite a bit larger and more complex then the first. I would like to base it on a design similar to the Saddleback Classic Briefcase XL, I might change the dimensions a bit to fit my needs. Here is a link: http://www.saddlebackleather.com/briefcase My biggest concern are the gussets or pleats or whatever they are called on the sides, and how they connect with the bottom. I have some leftover 4/5oz veg tanned leather but not enough for the whole bag, so I need to go to Tandy and get more. Should I get more veg tanned or is there a more suitable leather that would hold up better to the elements? Thank you for any advise you can give.
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Hello to all and thanks in advance for info. Very apreciated! I have been asked by a client to build a horse riding surcingle. I have never built one but I have starded reading books about sadlle making and have the knowledge of rinding and vaulting teacher at will. My main question is how do I pad underneath the the surcingle? I know horse riding sadles have sheep skin undeneath and have 2 bars eache side of the horse's back to prevent presure on the spine.The surcingle I have seen only has leather covered triangle hard foam shape where the bars would be. Is this the only way to do this? Were can I buy this foam? Second question I have is: can I use heavy veg tan leather or would it be better with Latigo third question: I know this is a vage but eny tips on riging to prevent handle tipping? Fourth question: There was no padding for the horse stomach on the one I saw, should ther be some? I was thinking of machining my self some stainless handles and bolt them each to aluminium plate (with holes around the edges) .Bolts would be countersunk to not have them not sticking out .Put a layer of leather on top and underneath of the plate , sewing around the plates and lacing thru the leather and the plate holes. the foam paddings would be underneath the plates. Thanks again for info! Any other info is also great. -
Hi, everybody! Long-time listener, first-time caller here. And I could really use some help! I mostly sew bags and small accessories with new leather (and I really don't do any dying except for edges, etc.), so I'm pretty far out of my league on this one. I have a dog with major anxiety, and so I procrastinate cutting his nails for way too long. As a result, he has done some major damage to about 1/3 of a big, hunter green leather sectional couch. What would you all recommend I do to try to revitalize the couch? It has scratches all over it (as you probably guessed), so the scratched parts appear dry, kind of flaky (but not with actual flakes I guess), and lighter in color than the rest. Should I try to apply a light coat of hunter green dye on it? Some kind of finisher? Also, should I do whatever you recommend to the whole couch or just the sections that are damaged? I would be so grateful for any help! THANKS! Elizabeth -
I am looking for a leather sewing machine that would have the ability to sew tack for horses. I don't have a ton to spend and want to get something that will work for now. I have come across an antique(all metal) Singer Delco and I'm not sure if it would be able to handle it. Can anyone help me out?
