Ferg

BOOKS: Pattern Cutting Step by Step, patterns for footwear by Frank Jones. He rewrote the book in 2008 to bring it up to date plus adding some additional info. Definitely the best book for detail and exact drawings that I have. Obviously it is for making patterns for shoes. BESPOKE SHOEMAKING: A comprehensive guide to handmade footwear by Tim Skyrme. Tim's book has a boat load of information. Illustrations leave something to be desired. Marcell Mrsan: Brilliant shoemaker. He is Bavarian, at least semi-retired. Resides in Savannah, Georgia I presume. Hundreds of videos on the Net. Very articulate and definitely knows what he's talking about. Marcell's Web-Site: www.cordwainertools.com. I have his STANDARD FOOTWARE PATTERN RULER. A video showing how to use the "Ruler" is on this site. https://vimeo.com/ondemand/shoemakingtutorials/332899515?autoplay=1 I found the Ruler very complicated as are most things pertaining to true shoe making. After using it to make the drawings for wife's shoes I am flabbergasted at the knowledge it took to devise the multitude of things you can do with it. I used it along with Pattern Cutting book. Also have: This book is very interesting read. Doesn't go into detail as to making shoes. BTW: Decided I didn't like the design of the uppers for wife's shoes. Changing a few things, not the main style though. Parts just didn't seem quite right. Ferg

I told her you would like to see photos of her feet. She said she didn't have any problem with it since it would be helping someone else. Thanks a million for your "Notes". I will place a copy in the "Shoe" folder. lol The only thing we have left from her foot doctor is the Insole he made for her a couple years ago. I have the metal for making a jig to hold the last with uppers when I am ready to attach the outer sole. Also making a couple other tools. Scrapped most of my design for the shoe earlier today. Just didn't look right. Been using some scrap leather I have had for some time in making this Throw Away. Will send some photos as I get a little further along. Ferg

For those of you who feel like trying the "shoe making thing". I have more than your average number of leather working tools, I still needed to buy a few more. Cordwainer Tools and Lisa Sorrell have tools as well as other necessities. Both are prompt and helpful. Tim Skyrma, Marcell Mrsan, and Frank Jones of Noble Footwear have books. I bought the books directly from the authors. My amateur advice is to buy the books and watch every video pertaining to same. Read the books cover to cover with no interruption before beginning this most challenging endeavor I have tried. I taught myself to program computers and CNC machines, making shoes correctly is more difficult. Ferg

There doesn't seem to be much metatarsal drop yet. She says her doctor doesn't call her side bump a bunion so she doesn't want me to infer that. LOL He describes those as swelling bones so we will leave that at that. Leg stability and knee placement aren't affected, now anyway. She has retarded movement in both big toes and is considering surgery, not me. Second toes are slightly longer than big. They are Hammer toes also so I raised that area of the shoe toe to help that condition. When I finished altering the LAST's, I was afraid I may have done too much. When we try the TW shoe I am sure those things will show their dirty little heads. Feet are not flat. Arches seem to be normal for her age. She does have some pain in that area of course. First responder mentioned, "Why didn't I use a LAST that was closer to her feet." Or why didn't I make a cast and do the LAST myself. I have been a woodworker all my life, I ain't going there. Ferg

RockyAussie She gave me a hard time when I posted personal aspects of her feet to my brothers. For the time being that won't happen. Ferg

mikesc Not going to add any decoration on this set. I am thinking I will make her a pair of sandals/loafers later. Our family business gears up in about two three weeks. The shoes will probably get "slowed" a bit. Ferg

mikesc I took careful measurements of her feet as well as the shape of her foot. The LAST I chose is a "Munson". Normally used for military shoes since WW I. The toe space has vertical space more than normal also. Attempted to shape the LAST so she could get her painful feet into the shoe easily as well as help to control movement in her abnormal bones of the toes. Obviously the LAST design wasn't necessarily intended for women's wear but has been modified many times over the years. Since she has had a number of years to endure the pain, she doesn't really care if the shoes appear more like a man's shoe than women. This shoe will have a 223mm/3/4" heel. Thanks so much for your insight and thoughts. Also: I did consider the casting and with the materials you listed. Decided I would go this way. I believe my photo, taken at the angle In the photo, makes the toe area appear more pointed than it actually is. Ferg

I said some time back I wasn't in the mood to make shoes. Decided a few weeks ago to see what I could do with it. Bought two or three books which provided much info that I reference every day I am working on the shoes. My wife has rather severe arthritis in her feet and ankles. We have bought enough shoes to fill a store, that do not exactly fit. Had inserts designed by a foot specialist that helped some for several months. Thousands of dollars for orthotics. I told her I could certainly try to make her a pair that she could be somewhat comfortable with. Bought a Shoe Last as close to her foot size as I could find and modified them with dozens of measurements I took of her feet. The photo is of the two Lasts after modification with layers of leather shaped and formed plus the drawing of the shoe I am building. The lasts have been sprayed with several coats of clear acrylic. My manner of making the shoes is referred to as the Geometric of which French, Italian, Bavarian, English and others use to make "Bespoke" shoes. Complicated is not really descriptive of what goes into this. I never give up on any endeavor I decide to pursue. This one pushes those feelings. Note: The wide offset in the shoes to the out side. That is to allow for arthritic swelling in her bones at the side of her feet. Two toes on each foot are affected also plus her instep and arch. Thought some of you may be interested to see this. I know there are several on the forum who have worked in the field. I am interested in their comments as well as anyone else. I am in the process of making a "Throw Away Shoe" to test the fit and comfort. Hoping my measurements aren't too far off. BTW: I found that Metric Measurement is a lot easier to use on shoes than Inches. Ferg

Not a good starter unless you want to repair boots or sew patches onto clothing etc. The 29-4 is needle feed and makes a pretty good mark in the top leather. It will handle size 92 thread but prefers 69. This machine would probably have some pertinent very worn parts which are either hard to find replacements or impossible availability, unless you can or have someone who can make the parts. If you are really wanting one of these I have a refurbished 29-4 on a pedestal table with a Servo Motor. I would sell for $1000 plus shipping. If you are close to me you could pick it up. The one I have will stitch through 4 oz. leather all day long, not much more than that and at 5 to 6 stitches per inch. I can send you a photo if you wish. Ferg

If you are looking for two pieces of Sole Bend large enough to cut two shoe soles, Lisa Sorrell is the place to go. Ferg

Ryan, You are D'Man. Great work!!! Ferg

Type "Moccasin Pattern" into Google. Ferg

Looks great! Clever idea, they will definitely be pleased. Ferg

I use a servo on my Fortuna Clone. Works great for me. You can make it skive slow or fast. Ferg

Jane, Well, with my research, they could be Roman anyway. That said: I have never made a shoe in my life. That is not to say I wouldn't like to. I hate the shoes you see from Colonial Times, they look so uncomfortable. This shoe appears to be very comfortable. When I get time, (right) I am going to look into making at least one shoe. Very intriguing, thank you for starting the thread. Ferg

Jane, Walmart has them on their website. That is about $25 less than I paid. Ferg BTW: If possible store your leather away from an outside wall of the basement, away from a window, and it would be good if you can have air moving over/through it. Small fan would do wonders, IF YOU CAN HANG YOUR LEATHER FROM AN EDGE/END.

Do you remember the three wheeled cart I have? Get one. They are a dream come true for moving these machines among other things. Most of the old iron weighs about 75 to 90 pounds for just the head. You would enjoy a Patcher. Hope your new basement is drier than the old one. Keep a De-Humidifier going and don't store your leather down there. Ferg

I have a 206 RB-5. I believe you probably have an RB-1. No reverse and no "knee lift" mechanism. There is no doubt in my mind that it would be in my shop if I happened upon it. Looks fairly well taken care of. This would be a winner for a first machine. Bob Kovar has many parts for this one. Ferg

I love Bridle Leather. You done an excellent job on stitching. Your glueing and leather edges need some work. Next one will be better. My old fingers won't let me do that much stitching anymore. Ferg

I have often wondered what I could do with the multitude of decorative leather punches I have. If you decide to make a pair of these, let me know. Maybe I could loan the set of punches to you. There are 39 punches in the set. Ferg

I think "How It's Made" on TV has their videos available for playback. Some are on U-Tube. Anyway, I watched this one the other day of a company making watch bands. Ferg

Ryan, Your embossing (I assume) is very nice. I am not enamored with your selection of background. First, I wouldn't mix completely different types of tooling. My preference would be more subtle backgrounding. Seems to take away from your image. Just my .02 Ferg

I think my last count was about 17 roo skins in my inventory. Six to eight square feet on average. Probably paid between $125 and $175 per skin. I know I bought some specials one time for $75, threw half of them away. The leather is worth every penny. Ferg

Similar to the roller I have on my COWBOY. I have modified it somewhat since it comes with both ends similar to your larger end. Ferg

I have written so many times about my skiver experience...... I seldom answer anymore when someone asks about them. My skiver is a COWBOY top and bottom feed. Very close to being a Fortuna, just enough difference to notice. I have three different shape rollers for the top, the one mimicking the shape of the bell knife is one I use most of the time. These machines will skive any of the leathers easily except heavy Veg Tan. They tend to dull the knife quickly plus several passes are definitely necessary making it tiresome to reset for small runs. I have mentioned numerous times, these are not for the faint of heart. A very high learning curve and they will drive you "bonkers" some times just when you think you have it all figured out. I find that U-Tube and many other videos fall short in actually educating you to how to run these machines. Hours of playing with them and chewing up all that scrap leather you thought you would never have a need for. Bell knife must be kept sharp beyond anything you can or have ever imagined. BTW: I have never seen a bell skiver without all the shields in place. That said, keep your fingers away from the knife similar to keeping them out of a meat slicer. I use a serrated steel feed roller. They work better than the stone in my opinion and are a lot easier to keep clean. Vacuums may very well do the best job????? I made a sheet metal "chute" that fits under the machine and directs the skivings into a cardboard box. Doesn't make any noise either. IMHO: There are few dealers who know much about bell knife skivers. Mostly because they don't sell all that many of them. Unlike sewing machines that are used everywhere and anywhere. A dealer who offers service and the basic knowledge is your best bet. I do not care how much leather you take with you to try on a machine, there is nothing that will teach you how to use them any more than experience and trial and error. Different speed for feed roller and knife is easily changed/varied on this machine. You simply change settings of your belts into a different sized drive pully. I always thought I would like to have a Fortuna. After buying my COWBOY with top and bottom feed I prefer it to the stationary top presser foot on the Fortuna's I have observed. Ferg