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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. A couple things to check. If making a sharp turn, make sure the needle has started to ascend and the hook has caught the loop. If the hook hasn't caught the loop, may have skipped stitches. Also, if you lift the presser foot too high while making turns, it will release the top tension, so won't pull the bobbin thread up. Tom
  2. Try http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/Embossing-Wheels_c3.htm Have rolls plus hand cranked embossing machine. Tom
  3. OP is located in London, UK according to the IP address. For all users that don't list their location, you will get better/ more useful responses for many of your questions if you list your location. You might even find someone next door, or just down the street from you. Tom
  4. It's great! Tom
  5. Or it is being applied too thick. I did that with Neat Lac many years ago. Much better to put it on thin. If more protection is required, possibly another thin coat after the first has dried well. Another possibility is the leather wasn't dry yet after what ever previous work was done, wet from tooling, wet dye, ... allow to dry 24 hours first. Tom
  6. Staples work too. Remove just before you reach them so they don't deflect the sewing machine needle. Depending on what I'm working with, I prefer to glue with contact cement, next option, leather tape or double sided tape, next staples, next poke a single hole every so often and tie together with thread. Don't like the time it takes to tie though. On pre-punched kits, I would tie them together to align all the parts, then of course hand stitch or lace after. Tom
  7. Go to your profile, pick settings, more settings, email notifications and check off what you want, or none. Tom
  8. Try site:leatherworker.net for Google searches inside this site. Tom
  9. Try limiting your Google search to just this site. You can place "site:leatherworker.net" followed by your search terms / parameters. The Google servers are huge and much better indexed than this server, so you will get faster and better results. Tom
  10. Your settings do indeed make a difference to what email notifications you get. You can set them to get nothing, or just items you have commented/posted on. If you have an ad blocker, you will not see the banner ads at the top of the page unless you disable it for this site. You can also tailor what you see when you log into the site. Check under the menu item "Activity" to set up what you want to see. Tom
  11. 4 posts! Please give the server and the internet a little time to finish the transaction. Don't keep hitting submit. Have you searched the "patterns and templates" forum? Looks like you have a reasonable pattern attached. Is there something more specific you are looking for? Tom
  12. More description please! Tom
  13. A few photos would help describe. Personally, would not buy on speculation with so little description. Tom
  14. I have used a 1 ton arbor press to click 4" circles. On 8 oz. and up, takes 4 presses, 1 at each quadrant. Didn't use a full size piece of steel plate over the top, so maybe could have done it with one press in the center, but would be a heavy pull. Still faster than cutting by hand, and more accurate. Smaller items are of course easier. Tom
  15. This appears to be his last post. No activity since. I'm locking this thread and moving it to old/sold. Tom
  16. If you are thinking about a Boss, you need to realize that you can only use one hand to guide your sewing. The other has to be on the lever to make the stitch. So the more finicky the project, the harder it is going to be. One machine to sew from say 3/16" to 5/8" inches thick material without having to do a bunch of re-adjusting between projects just isn't going to happen, especially for a new user. Tom
  17. Snip: One thing I will do in the future is the same thing but put a removable extension piece so when I dont want an extra 2 feet I put it away on a shelf. Or make a hinged drop leaf so it is self storing. Tom
  18. First photo shows a saddle where the swell was tooled before molding, versus part of the skirt that doesn't require molding. See the difference in the crispness? Second photo shows a swell that was stamped in place after molding. So which do you figure is better? Tom
  19. And it squashed your stamping. You'll need to do your stamping after forming like this. To do that, you will need something solid to place inside the holster to provide the solid backing you need for stamping. Tom
  20. You will probably get a better response if you list this separately in a new thread. Tom
  21. Go back to Joyce, work with her to help her understand what you want, and from what I have seen in other posts here, she should be able to help you. Tom
  22. Did you wet form after stamping? If so that softens the edges, losses crispness and definition. Need to minimize how wet you get it when wet forming. Else, as above, stamp harder, make sure the leather has the proper moisture level. Too wet, not good, too dry, doesn't leave a good impression. Tom
  23. Leather point and glovers needles will cut the canvas threads instead of just piercing the canvas. Leads to fraying and a weakened product. You should be using round point needles (typical for fabrics) whether by hand or by machine. Tom
  24. When you size photos for here, 800 x 600 pixels is a good size. Even 1024 x 768 is good. Small photos don't show the detail you are trying to display. Too large and it takes a long time to download when you are on the fringes of the internet with a slow connection. Tom
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