Northmount

This site does quite well at replying to people's queries, even when the same question is asked and answered many times over. So the "pros" in some cases are getting tired. Since you have lots of time to surf this site, perhaps you could take it upon yourself to put together a list with links of all the topics that a new person would be interested in. I added links to your previous post to aid any others that might be following this thread or come across it later, whether they are of interest to you or not. I think it is good form for posters to link to other posts instead of just making a list, especially when the poster already knows where the answers are located. The search function works well too. Hope you are interested in helping others find their way around this site. You may expand this thread, and we can pin this or a new thread if it turns out to provide a roadmap that will be helpful to many others. Don't restrict it to just tooling and carving. Tom

General Knife Sharpening Instructions Items 4 and 5 from above post are combined (along with other steps) in a couple pinned topics here and here.

If the top thread is laying on the top, and loose, not pulled down into the leather, then the bottom tension needs to be increased. But first check that there is nothing wrong with the bobbin spring, nothing jammed under the spring, clean etc. It doesn't take much to increase the bobbin tension, so go slow! Tom

Rubber cement from your local stationery store. Needs to be something you can easily peel off after. Some cement it to a sheet of Mylar, others to card stock, shelf paper, etc. There are numerous threads here if you do a search, should be able to find other suggestions too. Tom

Nice! You are having way too much fun! Tom

How about using 2 pieces of leather strap, one end of each has the mating stud and button. The opposite end is punched with a double row of holes (with extra holes for adjustment) then laced together for the length to fit. For smaller wrists, it may limit the amount of decoration, but would be nice just as a plain band, dyed and finished. Tom

post the link and maybe someone here will be able to help further with defining it or a better translation. Tom

Once you get the right thread, needle and foot pressure combination, the backside will look a lot better. You can also tap the back side with a flat faced hammer to help smooth it out. Sometimes a little moisture before tapping the back helps. The backside never looks as good as the top side. Tom Also look at http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html thread/needle chart suggestions.

Very interesting. Are you interested in sharing a few patterns for dummies like me? Tom

See post #29 in this thread!

Where's the like button? Eating pi is the best! Tom

Just tested it again. IT WORKS.Are you following the instructions in post 2, or just clicking on the link? In either case, there is no need to keep posting that it doesn't work when it does for most. If it is not working on your computer, tablet or smart phone, you need to get your browser fixed, or see if your provider or your software is blocking that domain/ IP address. Tom

Works for me! Tom

You are half way there. C = Pi * D or C = Pi * 2 * r I think where estimates for strand widths for braiding are concerned, the 4.5 rule of thumb is likely a better estimate since the strands are not running parallel to the axis, but rather cross the axis on a diagonal. Tom

Definition of an expert: X is an unknown quantity, and spurt is a drip under pressure. Another definition is anyone more than 25 miles from home. Tom

Post 3 says hand stitched. But for machine stitching on a domestic type machine, bottom feed dogs only, you are right. So is something for. Those using domestic or industrial tailoring machines, this is something to beware of. Tom

Very nice job Ken. Tom

That is a really great job. Very smooth, precise. Selling price $600 or more? Direct competition against the high end fashion purses. Tom

RavenAus is right. There are several posts about this type of card slot. Try a search for "wallet card slot" (no quotes) and I think you will be able to find them. Tom

There are lots of cases of people starving to death that have boiled and eaten their shoes to try to get some nourishment. Miners trapped underground have chewed on their shoes too in an effort to survive. Mice like to eat harness and other tack that is left where they have access. So I don't think it is too serious of a problem. Acrylic finishes become inert for the most part. Alcohol has all evaporated from the dyes. The solvents used are the dangerous part of the MSDS, so they are gone after a day or two. Having said all this, leather can't be good for the dog's (or people's) diet, at least not my diet! Tom

Leather needs to be cased before stamping. Otherwise you will need a press to be able to stamp it and have the impression stay. I also find that if the leather is very slightly damp, I don't get as much bleed when dying with a brush. Sharper lines. Tom

Nice to see another Canuk here. Welcome. Tom

Use double sided tape so you don't have to iron on heat activated material. It is available in the "notions" department. There is also leather tape available from wawak.com Heat dries out the leather, makes it hard, shrinks into an ugly mess if it gets too hot. And as you found, also discolours it. No fix for damaged leather. You can double up leather where you need reinforcing. Glue it together with weldwood or other good contact cement. Follow the directions, let dry before sticking it together. Good luck, and have a great Christmas. Tom

Wow, you are coming right along. Keep it up. Tom

Bury the leather in cornstarch or kitty litter for a few days to absorb the excess oil. Tom