RockyAussie

Having been through a similar exercise a few years back I feel I must warn you of my own findings. The smaller roller puts down the pressure into a smaller contact area and seemed to make manoeuvring no more easy. It was particularly more of a problem when having to go up onto thicker pieces. I found that I had to run with a fair bit less presser bar(foot) pressure which in turn makes other problems like tension jumps and looping stitches etc.This exercise was done on a Singer post bed. I have an Adler 268 VG-3S post with a 30mm approx roller which is a feeding roller as well and a Pfaff 463-6/01 with a small lazy roller foot approx 23mm which is a flat bed machine. Personally I found the smaller dia wheel to be a mistake previously and with the 2 machines I mentioned above the most detail work is done on the post with the bigger wheel. Not knowing exactly what work you want to do I can not say for sure but I suspect you may be disappointed. Perhaps a pic of the type of job you are wanting to improve on may come up with some more helpful answers. Regards Brian

Just googled tutorials for pig skin lining and there at the top here is this link. (about 40 min I would start) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZKxHdNIiP4

If you are using the inside lining thickness the same as the outside thickness then I would do the inside forming first then overlay the outside to it and trim. Least ways that's the way I do a formed knife pouch when I cover in croc.

Whatever the leather thickness is and I want to be sure, I cut 2 strips normally about 3/4 to 1" wide and wrap one over whatever and cut or mark its length. With the other i now put it over the first and mark its corresponding length. Whatever the difference is should work well enough.

In this case if you are using the suede as a liner it would not be much of an issue. Cut your suede length about a 1/4" shorter and stretch it evenly over the length to reach when you glue attach it. Presto.

Neat project Windrider30. When gluing in the liner on something that has to come all the way over when finished, it is best to attach with at least a 90 degree or more bend. Attach half then push it down over an edge of a bench or table then flip it over and press out the other half. Normally easiest to have the liner a bit oversize and trim up all the excess after. Note a softer liner would of helped as well. Regards Brian

Thanks for that Shoepatcher.

Yes I agree my 69 machine has the same looking unit as Constabulary has shown in the top picture. I wonder if some mechanic has installed this unit with the intention of increasing the top tension further without tightening the spring all the way in, as happens at times when using a large bobbin thread through thick material??? At any rate I would take off the tension discs of both and check if they have any roughness or grooves. Periodically I take mine off and polish them with a rag wheel and tripoli polish on a bench grinder. This may help with the top thread fraying problem mentioned. Another problem on some threads is when going very fast, stopping and going fast again. When I stitch full belt lengths at times the heat generated on the needle starts to melt the thread and I have found it best to slow down the machine the last 3 or 4 inches before stopping. Sorry I can't help with the steel bobbins as I am in Australia. Regards Brian

Keep up the good work and you'll lose your "Hermit" status. They will come and find you.

How bout if we cross breed a patcher with a blake and make the horn swivel 60% as well........or would we just end up cross eyeddddd

Congratulations Jess Jones Your gear looks great. Don't forget to attach any links or such to how to find you.... Unless your already overloaded. Best Regards Brian

Amen

Welcome I think we will be seeing some very interesting art from you. You are off to a flying start.

Try a little talc powder it should settle down in time and use.

I watched the video above and was surprised to see the thread at section 1.3mins in being looped behind the thread return tension spring post as I have never done that and have not had any problems that I know of. I checked online and saw this video that is threaded the same as I always have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHq0N0Umz08 I do not know if the shown example is correct. Can anyone here verify which way it should be or if it matters. The winding through of the thread on the stand at the start going through the 2 holes makes me wonder if the operator really knows what he is doing. The uneven tension on the bobbin mentioned makes me think to look into whether a new bobbin case should be tried to compare with. I always put a drop of oil onto the bobbin holding post and into the back of the bobbin case between most bobbin changes. This makes it quieter and smoother running and helps to keep the tension more reliable. Make sure the bobbins do not have any restrictions when turned in the bobbin case without any thread in. Sometimes the case can have damage from a broken needle and so on. I do prefer steel bobbins as against aluminium as I think they are less likely to pick up rubbish and do any scouring on the bobbin tube or the post. Changing the foot lift to a knee lift is quite easy and would be no problem to do. I think it is possible that you may need a good mechanic to go over it but mostly to get you to understand exactly how and why different adjustments work such as the feet tensions and how this relates to the varying thicknesses and the tightness in materials being sewn. Usually I run them as loose as possible but tight enough not to let the job lift off the table at all when starting off. There are a lot of different things involved in getting a machine to run right and unless your doing the same work all of the time a good knowledge of how to make the machine work the way you want will be true with a new machine in short time as well. Hope that helps some. Regards Brain

Wow such detail. I hope it fits her well

Where is the like button, I can't find the like button. Very nice Uwe

Very well done

Well done

No you should be safe mate. Can't talk just now the dingo needs another feed..........

If 2 top grains are used the answer is defiantly yes and I would guess by about 50% or more. The type of glue used if any would also add a further factor. If used against where the bar of the buckle comes in contact I would use the top grain to make contact. Making sure the stretch in the hide is cut in the correct way, will have a large bearing on the durability as well.

Yes that should work but make sure to use a thick welt along the stitch side and or at least block and case so as to allow the saw easy access in and out . Have fun and a Merry Christmas.

I think you may need to make a wooden block allowing a straight relief a bit like you would on a holster for the sights I guess. Might need a better saw though. Regards Brian

They are just 3k down the road and the Caves pub is a 1/2 k closer and have fantastic counter lunch. I wonder if I can get a discount for that add

Your most welcome. If you come up on a weekend there is a spare couple of beds to spend the night if you want.