RockyAussie

Thanks for that idea. It would save a lot of time if it works. I will try and find local and give it a try. I think they may need a washer on the back to hold but that should not be a problem. The length they can get through to hold in this case up to 11mm (7/16") may be an issue as well. I love the idea a lot. Regards Brian.

I would be happy to give you the patterns for free but you have to consider that it is made size wise for the actual tools in it. Are you able to take DXF format? Or which file format can you use? Instructions on how - as this was my first I would wait for a few days and see if any other members can input any better ways of construction as this took more time than I thought with all of the bolting etc.

Lookin pretty good mate

This is how I went about making my first heavy duty linesman's pouch.there have got to be easier ways but for now this is what I did. I got a call from a guy that wants his own pouch as he is left handed and also wants the tools to slide in easy and not fall out when upside down.Leather has to be waterproof and as thick as 3.6mm (9oz) to remain durable as possible.No problem!!??. First step buy a big Cowboy sewing machine and spend a day learning how to use it and find its capabilities. This resulted in knocking it out of timing as I found it could stitch OK going forward but would not pick up the bobbin thread going backward. A search on the net showed some videos on the subject but the best info I found was in a Juki engineers manual which gives clear measurements I found referenced in L.W. After getting in the right needle and thread (277-10metric used top and bottom) I proceeded to CAD out some patterns as shown below. Second pic shows leather cut out and bolted together to test pattern. Picture 3 shows back view. 4 shows the test hanging upside down works Pic 5 shows the outer third piece stitched to the second piece. Pic 6 shows stitching the outer stitched layers onto the back layer by sewing through and following the same holes and removing bolts on the run. Bit scary but all went well. Pic 7 shows the finished pouch with tools in and it tested good. Last pic shows the belt that is suede backed and measures 6mm (1/4") thick stitched here with a 230 size 26 LR needle except for the keeper. Any tips and criticisms are most welcome. Brian

Not so easy to answer as there are a lot of different sizes we make . The larger bags because they are so large have to allow for a shorter person to not be dragging along the ground if holding in the hand but not so short to be uncomfortable if put over the shoulder. A starting point would be from the top of the bag to top of strap at shoulder would be about 10 to 11 inches. Often we make some adjustable to allow for different customers requirements. Regards Brian

What size and breed may I ask?

Looks like its shaping up not too bad. I think the needles might not be LR and may have looked a better stitch but if you are using round points that would be what you need for the webbing anyway. I think folded leather straps would look good though.

For production work I have found the Variostop very useful and if you check out the video our local newspaper made showing me making a key tag it shows the advantage of being able to quickly and easily lift the foot which is where the air comes in to use a lot. It does not use much air but I have had to replace the little switch valve which opens the air path once. I think it cost about $35.00 from a common air switch supplier. Here's the link http://www.themorningbulletin.com.au/videos/wild-harry/43913/ Best of luck Brian.

I just checked my 335 and it has a closed end cap part Pfaff no 14638. The 69 Addler here wears a pfaff cap as well but has been shortened back about 1mm. The shorter cap will go on the 335 a bit far in but still clears the hook etc. Note the end on your 335 looks different to mine as pics shows I hope. Hope that is of some help. Brain

Be that I mostly use machines I would not see any problem using the right sewing machine for the job. The hardest thing I think is stitching small zipper pullers that are profiled and made from crocodile.

For most of the totes we make they have drop in liners and I doubt you would have any luck using a Cb4500 to sew the lining at those thicknesses. I would say you would be better to go with the liners attached to give more substance to sew with. If you don't want to do edge coating having structured bags will be quite difficult to accomplish.I would put a 335 on my shopping list. Check my website for totes as they are done with a small cylinder arm machine mostly. Having just bought a CB 441 I hope to do some new totes using it sometime soon with different construction methods. Regards Brian

Stick with it. For a first that is very good and tidy looking work. Brian

Congratulations. I am full of envy.It looks very clean and tidy and I hope we get to see some of your products soon. Brian

Just curious which machine you stitched up with? The bottom and top look similar size thread and quite equal in angle/tension. I would have guessed a bigger machine than a 335. Just got a Cowboy 441 to try out as I hate changing bobbins so much. I'll let you know how she goes when I get it sorted out a bit more. Small LR needles and threads over here are a big challenge.Regards Brian

That is what is so good about this forum you get to learn something new every day. In the 30 + years I have been manufacturing and using these machines I have never heard before that the correct tool was sandpaper glued to a stick. I have only ever bought the stone in the stick type before as shown above and in the link I referred to. Thanks electrathon.

That is unless the sandpaper gets caught in the bell.

Nice design Gigi and the folded edge came out well and saves a lot of edge coat time I think.

I saw in Campbell Randall Parts available for Fortuna/ FAV skiver. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=49_76_114 About $9.00 sounds pretty good. Also take a look at this roller foot as I would recommend it if you don't have already.. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=49_76_114&product_id=14495 Regards Brian

I hate facebook badly but I will look forward to seeing any input you have to offer as I believe the info is from a knowledgeable and trustworthy source. Thanks for the pdfs. Your drawings are helpful and clear enough.

I would think that this machine would be great for the heavy weight products but the products you mention without some pictures make it hard to say. The thread size used would have to be considered carefully. I make all of the products you've mentioned and most get done on lot smaller machines which have the advantage of being able to go in tighter curves which is important on bag gussets and even wallets if you stitch all around. A lot of products we make go from 46tkt /60metric through to the 138tkt/20m and these are done on smaller machines. Check my web page for some reference if you like. In the longer run it would be best to have both sized machines but which is better to start with is the question.

Nice looking work and I see you happened to keep the wrinkles out of this one. Just joking They all look amazing.

Interesting idea but I think would be hard/time consuming to make in regards to the flesh side working in. With a strip it can run through a O shape cutter to get the shape. I wonder if you went to the abattoir if you could get the leg skins pulled of whole and that would possibly give you different diameters as well. Next to get a tanner to do uncut as well??? Maybe, I have had crocodile feet done full .

Thanks for compliment. I tried to do a video on the weekend on the skiving machine with some help. End result I showed and talked and pointed for 1/2 hour or more to find later the "HELP" had mistakenly stopped the recording 3 seconds in. Presently making a camera stand, I'll try again when I am a bit more peaceful of mind..

This thickness leather is not a thickness with much market but if you approach a Bovine tannery and ask, it is produced sometimes for leather belt makers as used at times in some older sewing machines. Given that your talking 8mm diameter you may be able to find it or close in a sewing machine suppliers operation. Cow hide is quite thick in the earlier stages of tanning but can be a bit soft as well. Hope this link will help http://www.ebay.com/p/OAK-Leather-Treadle-Belt-Belting-for-Sewing-Machine-Motor-5-16-8mm-One-Flat-Side-10-Feet/1561095984

The 45D does not have that same beautiful top feeding foot though does it? I want one like this so bad.