RockyAussie

I just checked my 335 and it has a closed end cap part Pfaff no 14638. The 69 Addler here wears a pfaff cap as well but has been shortened back about 1mm. The shorter cap will go on the 335 a bit far in but still clears the hook etc. Note the end on your 335 looks different to mine as pics shows I hope. Hope that is of some help. Brain

Be that I mostly use machines I would not see any problem using the right sewing machine for the job. The hardest thing I think is stitching small zipper pullers that are profiled and made from crocodile.

For most of the totes we make they have drop in liners and I doubt you would have any luck using a Cb4500 to sew the lining at those thicknesses. I would say you would be better to go with the liners attached to give more substance to sew with. If you don't want to do edge coating having structured bags will be quite difficult to accomplish.I would put a 335 on my shopping list. Check my website for totes as they are done with a small cylinder arm machine mostly. Having just bought a CB 441 I hope to do some new totes using it sometime soon with different construction methods. Regards Brian

Stick with it. For a first that is very good and tidy looking work. Brian

Congratulations. I am full of envy.It looks very clean and tidy and I hope we get to see some of your products soon. Brian

Just curious which machine you stitched up with? The bottom and top look similar size thread and quite equal in angle/tension. I would have guessed a bigger machine than a 335. Just got a Cowboy 441 to try out as I hate changing bobbins so much. I'll let you know how she goes when I get it sorted out a bit more. Small LR needles and threads over here are a big challenge.Regards Brian

That is what is so good about this forum you get to learn something new every day. In the 30 + years I have been manufacturing and using these machines I have never heard before that the correct tool was sandpaper glued to a stick. I have only ever bought the stone in the stick type before as shown above and in the link I referred to. Thanks electrathon.

That is unless the sandpaper gets caught in the bell.

Nice design Gigi and the folded edge came out well and saves a lot of edge coat time I think.

I saw in Campbell Randall Parts available for Fortuna/ FAV skiver. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=49_76_114 About $9.00 sounds pretty good. Also take a look at this roller foot as I would recommend it if you don't have already.. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=49_76_114&product_id=14495 Regards Brian

I hate facebook badly but I will look forward to seeing any input you have to offer as I believe the info is from a knowledgeable and trustworthy source. Thanks for the pdfs. Your drawings are helpful and clear enough.

I would think that this machine would be great for the heavy weight products but the products you mention without some pictures make it hard to say. The thread size used would have to be considered carefully. I make all of the products you've mentioned and most get done on lot smaller machines which have the advantage of being able to go in tighter curves which is important on bag gussets and even wallets if you stitch all around. A lot of products we make go from 46tkt /60metric through to the 138tkt/20m and these are done on smaller machines. Check my web page for some reference if you like. In the longer run it would be best to have both sized machines but which is better to start with is the question.

Nice looking work and I see you happened to keep the wrinkles out of this one. Just joking They all look amazing.

Interesting idea but I think would be hard/time consuming to make in regards to the flesh side working in. With a strip it can run through a O shape cutter to get the shape. I wonder if you went to the abattoir if you could get the leg skins pulled of whole and that would possibly give you different diameters as well. Next to get a tanner to do uncut as well??? Maybe, I have had crocodile feet done full .

Thanks for compliment. I tried to do a video on the weekend on the skiving machine with some help. End result I showed and talked and pointed for 1/2 hour or more to find later the "HELP" had mistakenly stopped the recording 3 seconds in. Presently making a camera stand, I'll try again when I am a bit more peaceful of mind..

This thickness leather is not a thickness with much market but if you approach a Bovine tannery and ask, it is produced sometimes for leather belt makers as used at times in some older sewing machines. Given that your talking 8mm diameter you may be able to find it or close in a sewing machine suppliers operation. Cow hide is quite thick in the earlier stages of tanning but can be a bit soft as well. Hope this link will help http://www.ebay.com/p/OAK-Leather-Treadle-Belt-Belting-for-Sewing-Machine-Motor-5-16-8mm-One-Flat-Side-10-Feet/1561095984

The 45D does not have that same beautiful top feeding foot though does it? I want one like this so bad.

With regards to using a steel wheel which from memory most of these machines come with standard , the spacing on the one I have here is about 2mm spacing and quite deep. This is good for saddlery leathers but not what I would use for finer leathers that you would use in wallets and watch band type work. It tends to skive a bit wavy like and not good on a feather edge . A stone also can be used a little to remove the inside edge burr if carefully done but a fluted steel feed wheel will certainly make a mess of the blade if you don't adjust with extreme caution.

The way it stitches so nice and if it were not so pretty I'd be tempted to mount it on some box channel and turn it into a cylinder arm machine of sorts.

Have tried the rubber ball but as one of my staff quickly found when adjusting the angle in relation to the blade that the knife can slice in to it quite well. I no longer have a rubber feed wheel that is nice and round. They still suffer the same problem so save your money. There are also fine and course stones also but I found the course works well for most as long as the blade is kept sharp.

I have in the past suffered this same problem. I have looked up the Consew models and I do not see a version with an aspirator. That is a vacuum set up that pulls away the waste and down into a collection box. This still fails if there is any stickiness or glue on the underside of the leather. Very spongy leather can sometimes still like to stick sometimes. I sold the machine that did not have an aspirator as I was lucky enough to pick up one with an aspirator and the difference is hugely improved. I have attached a couple of pics to show one of the skivers with the suction attachment. Let me know if you need any more pics or a video and I will try and get some thing together. I am hoping that some people with machines without aspirators have some more helpful answers Regards Brian

Thanks for the lead Oscarhe. I have been able to get some suitable materials from within Australia but it all ways helps to have other sources in case.Regards Brian

For what it is worth I have moved a couple of these size presses before and found 4 pieces of 1.5" heavy wall pipes and a crow bar with a rubber pad like conveyor belt to protect floor finish works pretty good to move around. A hyab crane truck can normally get to the doorway if strapped right.

This may look a tempting to you price but a needle bar in that condition makes it likely that a few other parts and gears etc may be in a terminal condition. I would only consider this at all after getting it checked by a GOOD sewing machine mechanic and getting all the replacement parts priced ahead first. Buying from a dealer can give you some rights to call on assistance later and when you are starting off you will most likely need help a few times to get through the learning curve. If you can get the work $1360 may be a very good buy.

Lots of ways to do it and most depend on the end costs required. For expensive watch band work I use a dob of glue with a thin bolt ground down like a needle shape and then blunted squarely off giving a flat point about the size of the thickness of the needle used in stitching. I touch the tip into a pva woodglue puddle and then into the hole and press the thread in. Following this sometimes a quick wipe to check there is no visible excess. About 30 seconds in on this video should help some I think.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw43Isosh_s Regards Brian