RockyAussie

Here are a couple of things may help .- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993984374.html The disk does not look to be in there correctly or perhaps it is not even an original disc?

Can I ask if it is possible that the disc that the spring is pushing on that is between the spring and the tension discs has been turned around the wrong way? If it is then it is possible that the pin can not reach the normal contact point on that disk that the pin pushes against to open.

It may depend on the machine and your picture is too close to be sure. The ones I have and all the others I've seen the bottom roller turns with the top meaning they are connected by gears. If the bottom plate is hinged and taken down too far it may be possible to disengage the gears perhaps. The top that at the moment shows no blades looks too close to the nylon roller for that to be likely so I can only ask for a few more pictures taken further back. If the nylon roller is turning freely then it has not been tightened up correctly and will cause damage.

I was just thinking that bringing a piece off of the top with a snap fitting could work quite nicely. The snap fitting could do up on the strap D. The one I used in the making of this bag opens up a bit like a clothes peg and works very well single handed as well. Regards Brian

There was an excellent video that showed how to do a basic timing fix on this type of machine by Solar Leather but that now appears to have gone private now. First thing I can say is check that when your needle is all the way up that there looks to be a 3mm (1/8") gap between where the needle bar shaft and the needle holder piece attach. Any much less and the needle has been knocked up. The best video I can suggest is one by our most honourable members @Uwe in this following video- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZT3AVgj_HLI Note there is a measurement early on in it that gives the height that the needle bar should be at.

A bit of emery cloth would be better than the file but I would suspect that you may have knocked the timing out. Double check that the needle bar has not moved up before any other adjustments.

I have to say that they are about the most forgiving machine I have ever come across. When you go through all the specs and see how many things can be out and yet they still mostly seem to do a decent job?????

That's one where a little bit goes a loooooong way. If you get it right with less than 3 try's you're way better than me.

I don't see much point telling them where in Australia they might get leather or thread or good sewing machine service......so if they can't be bothered why should I??? If I know they be from this neck of the woods I'm not wastin my time ...............so much.

Beautiful work and attention to detail.....as always from you. Congratulations.

it seems good ( do I have to change that every time I change thickness? ) I don't usually have to but if it is not behaving well I do. I have to say that your bobbin appears to be sitting inordinately high up on the anti backlash springs and perhaps the bobbin slots are getting intermittently caught as the bobbin revolves. When the bobbin is in the machine and you pull the thread can you feel and catching as you pull the thread out? I could not find any manual specific on this machine and I am wondering if the thread/needle size is supposed to go this large. For instance from Pfaff on a 335 shown it says needle size 80-100nm https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/cylinder-arm/pfaff335 That would mean a size 40 thread max. I can run a 20metric or 138 in mine without any problems but it is not a G type like yours as shown in the picture below. Given what you said about cranking your top tension to near max I would reduce my bobbin tension by about a 1/2 turn and see if that helps. Loosen your top tension to match.

That is great if it continues to work. I have a clone one as well that the in the end I had to remove one of the linkage arms at the back to stop it going past where it should and jamming the thread release tension part open. After trying all sorts of bending and grinding etc I removed it and now do not have any tension release action unless I lift with the hand lever only. Foot lift can now go extra high with no jamming ....just no thread tension release. Thankfully I don't need any thread tension release unless I am removing the job. No big deal.This is one reason why I asked what brand of 335 you have. There are a huge range of 335 types even in the original Pfaff 335 range. Knowing the machine type can help when others encounter the same problem with theirs if they do. My clone in this case is an Elizabeth TK 335

Do that very carefully as I have done the same and broken off one of the sides when closing it back up.

I'm pretty sure that the thread does not go up over the post at your tension discs. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=how+to+thread+a+335+pfaff#kpvalbx=_WSEZXuXLJtXCz7sPoqOQcA24 Also your thread return spring should just start to slacken off as the needle enters the leather. Thick leather check for this. Make sure you leave no thread hanging out when you refill the bobbin and test the bobbin how it rotates in the bobbin case in your hand. If it feels catchy try another bobbin and if still catchy look for burs etc on the bobbin case shaft and that the backlash spring has not been bent out of shape and catching in the bobbin slot when it rotates.

Am I seeing missed stitches or are you just skipping back a few when you finish off? If you are skipping back can you not just turn the job around? Having a reverse on the Singer would be nice. I am curious as to what function that this article does. I assume that the silicone bumps are to stop some slipping from happening in some way or another?

I don"t see anywhere here that paper was suggested to be used under next to the feed dogs.??? The purpose @kgg offered this is because if the dog foot hole is large or has been worn larger (common on old singers) it is easy for the material to go down into that hole and the elastic effect of that helps the loop from fully forming which in turn leads to missed stitches at times. Paper under the job can help with this as well as a new feed dog may help as well. Reducing the foot tension can help the elastic not spread as much and have the needle spear it as much as well perhaps. As you have suggested that you do this every day and that another flat bed machine would be a better answer perhaps you could suggest one type of the few different machines you have. Do you have any needle type recommendations to offer or perhaps threads that behave better? Lubrication? Thanks ahead for your kind knowledge sharing.

2 thoughts. Thread lubrication. Next up round point needle size as well. Elastic can stop the loop forming that the hook catches so a bigger needle can help.

So what is this machine called now?

Is that with the logo in it? I generally get away with 250m on the main colour and have gotten away with 100metres on other colours if in the same order. We have been dealing with them for a long time I suppose. If it makes any difference I have never had any frayed edges on any product that came back for a revamp. Having done repairs for years I can't say how many wallets I've seen the fabric pull away from the edges except to say that it is nearly all of them if they are more than a year or 2 old. I would hate EVER getting anything back that I might feel ashamed I made. If you want to buy a metre or so to try out PM me your details and we will sort something out if you want.The colours I have in stock at present are black, dark brown, tan, red, pink & orange.

And I would say wrong as well. If I am designing a wallet I consider that the inside should not need to be trimmed shorter to fit the outside. As much as I have years of experience with cad drawing I also have learnt that some leathers are not always the right thickness perfectly and some leathers stretch way more than other leathers. The answer is best to leave room to trim the outside a little after it attaches to the inside. Putting the 2 pieces together flat will not allow it to fold together well and putting it so it is able to fold fully down does not then allow it to open fully very well. I go for a just past 90 degrees when attaching together depending on the thickness and leather stretch and trim up after it comes together. This is done whether it is a folded edge or raw edge finish. I should add that all the wallets I make are stitched fully around the outer edge. The first pic below shows a raw edge with edging applied and the second shows a folded edge. Last one is cause I reckon it looks good. Helps show how some outer skin leathers can vary in the thickness.

Mid last year it cost 5 Euro per metre before freight etc. The Tessuto Jacquard we only use for wallets and purses and bag pocket linings etc. For our bags we mostly use upholstery leathers for linings. The majority of the bags we make are crocodile though and the extra expense of the lining leather is warranted. Tabru does have an unbelievable range of fabrics and leathers to choose from it is just a shame that they do not have an English speaking friendly web page. The customer handling and the samples you get from them makes up for this though in my experience.

If you want world class fabric that does not fray when you cut it I get mine from Tabru in Italy. https://www.tabru.it/ Many of the larger brand names like Longchamp and Benetton use them as well. I have been using it for over 20 years now without any problems with it or them. There is a huge range but for wallet and purse linings I use Tessuto Jacquard 263122/657 and if I want plain black RAS05/8/03. I think the minimum buy is 100 metres but if you get something like I think 250 metres you can have your brand all through it like a lot of the brand names do now days. They may have a dealer in the states if you care to check. They have been happy to send me a lot of samples in the past. I have a few different colours so if you are happy to pay the postage I can send some small samples of my own. The fabric in the pics below are the Tessuto Jacquard 263122/657 as they cut on my clicker press.

This one should do the job. -Adler Bobbin Cover.stl You may need to flip it over so the end is facing down onto the plate. The Adler 69 and the Pfaff 335 are much the same.

Not sure what that stuff looks like any more. For any of you owners with these big sewing machines have a think about how you could make up a heavy leather harness strap attachment to go onto these large water extinguishers. Something that attaches onto the wall hanging thingy. They get pretty heavy when your trying to carry 2 at a time. Something that can go over the shoulder sort of thing would be nice . Still working on getting better at that yet. I really would like some way of filling the air up into the extinguishers from my car but at 90 to 100 psi I am not sure how hard that would be yet. Extra water in Gerry cans is easy though. Sorry I seemed to have somewhat hijacked the thread @dikman . If I can find a bit more time I will think of a way to start a new post on this subject.

That is all I was doing on Tuesday, running back and forth madly filling up 2 water fire extinguishes putting out a neighbours bush fire. At the end of the day when the owners relative showed up I was rewarded by being given another 3 water type extinguishers to keep. He was a fire fighter for 30+ years. Although around 20 acres went up we managed to stop it well short of their house.By the time the fire brigade got there one of my workers and I had most of it beat. I really have to say that the extra manoeuvring that these portable extinguishes give running through the bush should not be underestimated. Even after the fire fighters showed up I was able to get around and extinguish fires that their hoses were sitting in after they had dragged them out to their full lengths. If you live in a bush area I recommend having a few on hand and ready to go. Learn the refill procedure to minimise time lost at that stage as well. I will be buying a few more of them I think as the 100+ acres I have has 1/3 of it covered by an area that I can not clean up without notifying the government my intention to do so including having to supply GPS maps and pictures etc. BIG penalties if you do.