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Everything posted by Northmount
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I started leather work in 1961, so would have spent a lot of time looking at that catalog. PM me if you would like to scan and send me the whole catalog. Thanks again for posting. Tom
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Thanks. What year? I'm wishing I had kept a couple old catalogs. Tom
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Tools For Cutting Copper Rivet Posts
Northmount replied to CustomDoug's topic in Hardware and Accessories
Regular diagonal cutters work. The end nippers work nice too! Get longer handles if they are giving you problems with #12. Tom -
Using Shearling Wool To Insulate A Can Holder.
Northmount replied to BryanD's topic in How Do I Do That?
And having the kozzie or sheepskin removable will help in case of slops or spills. Easier to clean up. Tom -
If you logged out, or cleared your cookies, or started using another computer, or another browser, you will have to log in again. Tom
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Leather Thickness Conversion Table
Northmount replied to Handstitched's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
The graphic is off Tandy's site. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx It has been posted here, but it's great to have it refreshed for those that haven't seen it. Someday, maybe it will all be metric. I work in an engineering company where I have to switch back and forth frequently. Tom -
Light coat of neatsfoot oil should not bother you. Some finishes will do strange things. The hotter the iron, the shorter the time required to burn the brand. I'd go with a cooler iron and hold it longer. Also, make a templet out of pressed hardboard or similar to use as a guide, so you can position the brand carefully. Hold or clamp it down. Then you can lift your iron off, see if it needs more time, or if one side is too light. Then place your iron back in the guide to adjust time, pressure, or correct for being less than square while holding it. Cooler iron will not tend to shrivel up thin leather as easily too. Tom
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What are you using for a mallet? If it is a steel hammer, it's knocking little flakes of metal off your stamps. Make sure to use a mallet made of the right materials to avoid damaging your tools. Any filing, sharpening, sanding, wire brushing or similar activities involving iron based material could spread fine bits of iron over various surfaces. Need to keep the leather, tools, and work surfaces clean. Keep anything rusty away. Another source is iron in your water. Try distilled or deionized or reverse osmosis treated water. Do you have rust stains in your sink where your water drips? Another is contaminants in the leather that reacted when dampened, but not likely as it should have shown up in the tanning and finishing processes. Phosphoric acid is fairly strong, so could do more than you wish. Should be rinsed off and neutralized. Tom
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Oil is a conditioner, not a finish. Too much makes the leather soggy, and it bleeds on what ever rests against it. Tom
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Hard Pulling Thread... Cowboy 4500
Northmount replied to SteelcityK9Cop's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Leave some folded paper towel under the presser foot to pickup excess oil, then wipe the feet and stuff above when you are ready to start sewing next time. Tom -
Mildew overnight is rather unusual. Chances are some specs of iron got onto the surface and reacted with the tannin in the leather to produce the black spots. As Sylvia says, use oxalic acid to bleach it out. About a teaspoon per pint of water is usually strong enough. In a pinch, use lemon juice. Iron and tannin is the process for using vinegaroon to dye vegtan leather black. You will find it interesting to look up and read about it. Lots of threads here on how to make and how to use. Tom
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Welcome to your new addiction. Let the cb sit for a couple days for the oil to be evenly absorbed. Always go light on the oil as too much makes it soggy! What town are you in? Tom
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Holding a hot branding iron on too long will burn right through the leather. The thinner the leather ... Easier to burn through. Also leather shrivels up and shrinks. Just touch the iron and remove. If not dark enough, reapply for another touch. They should do some practice on some cut offs from the same piece first. To be able to reapply in the same position takes some practice. May be worthwhile to make a template guide clamped in position. 1/4" tempered hardboard is easy to cut and work with, and won't catch fire easily. At least for the short time the hot iron needs to be against it. Tom
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Question On Construction Of Tandy Leather Journal Kit?
Northmount replied to Dano1122's topic in How Do I Do That?
The smaller piece is sewn or laced to one of the flaps on the cover, leaving a pocket to slip the memo/journal notebook front or back cover into the pocket. Tom -
Question On Construction Of Tandy Leather Journal Kit?
Northmount replied to Dano1122's topic in How Do I Do That?
Most covers have a slot where you slide the notepad back cover into it. Picture or diagram would help for those of us that don't have that kit. Tom -
Help Choosing The Right Cylinder Machine
Northmount replied to Cmoore's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Cowboy 227 and Techsew 2700/2800 are the same basic machine. I have a 2700. Works well for me. If you ever sew 8 oz, single layer hard temper or 2 layers, get the pulley reduction kit. Tom -
I Want To Learn The Industry From The Beginning Saddles
Northmount replied to tetoteto81's topic in Saddle Construction
Have you looked at Al Stohlman's encyclopedia? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1128-the-stohlman-encyclopedia-of-saddle-making-volume-1-by-al-and-ann-stohlman.aspx Three volumes. Also there are sites selling DVDs. Tom -
Do a search here. I recall seeing a post about sharpening bell skivers. After the initial sharpening, there is a stick used to take the burr off. The post was probably within the past 3 months. Tom
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Welcome to the forum. Let's see some photos, especially when you do horse carvings. Tom
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I think the <return> key not working is a problem with MS IE. Try holding down the <alt> key and typing "010" on the keypad. This is the code for a line feed (LF). "013" is the code for a carriage return (CR). You can try it too and see if one or the other works. This only works on PCs, not Apple products. Tom
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Keeping Linen Thread Looking Slick And Tidy
Northmount replied to KiwiLeatherLearner's topic in How Do I Do That?
Brown paper bag works well for burnishing the thread too. Tom -
By sized I'm supposing you mean cased. The leather should be properly cased before tracing your pattern, and thus still properly cased for all your swivel knife work and stamping. Tom
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First Attempts At Bible Covers
Northmount replied to grywolf's topic in Books, Journals and Photo Albums
Pretty fair job for doing new stuff. Two things stand out. Bevelling is choppy. Either was still too wet, or need more practice to get it smoothed out. Can run over it with a modelling spoon to smooth it out. Second item is the raw edges of the leather needs to be burnished. See http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101 for a tutorial. Keep working at it. Practice makes perfect. And, welcome to the forum! Tom -
As the leather heats up, it gets hard, warps, and chars. As plastic heats up, it wrinkles and burns, not just char. In both cases, sample held in open air. If held against a table top, tests won't be as effective. Tom