Tugadude

I visit several times a year and every visit is rewarding. They have closeout stuff that can't ever make it into a catalog or the web. Several tables outside where you can find bargains. Belt blanks, wallet backs, hardware, etc. A huge box of remnants sold by the pound is awesome for smaller projects. Discount sides in multiple colors and types. Tools galore and very friendly, helpful staff. Jeff, in particular helps me a bunch. I you are into beads and/or jewelry this is also your place. If passing by, stop! You won't be sorry.

Who suggested that paint? It is water soluble and not suitable at all for what you are trying to achieve. It is basically a thick, watercolor paint. Fine for artwork, not coating leather edges.

Tokonole comes in clear and pigmented versions so it can be used to add color to edges. My experience with beeswax is that it can be sticky if over-applied. Blending in some paraffin might help. Resolene or Mop-N-Glo works good if you want glossy edges.

This is a pictorial on how to terminate handlebar tape that details a method similar to what is described above. http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/pdf/original_twineforsite.pdf The hooks are called fish hooks or open hooks, sometimes other names. Google brass fish hook wallet clip. You'll find lots of sources.

Good luck in your recovery! I am a fellow cancer survivor. Attitude helps, but my faith sustains me. Right now I am cancer-free but the doctor is reluctant to use the word "cured". So on it goes until the next blood test. Keep on keeping on friend!

Personally I would use a chisel, a very small one if you have it. The diamond-shaped chisels do have bigger tooth profiles as compared to many pricking irons so go with as small as you can. If using a pricking iron, just don't allow it to cut all of the way through. Just a light tap, to mark the line only.

Very nice! It has a soft, supple look to it and I like the way the flap will protect against anything, rain, dirt, etc., entering the sides.

This happens to me sometimes, particularly on thinner leather and with Fiebing's Oil Dye. I think it is just a natural phenomenon. I am in the construction products industry and believe me, you wouldn't believe what can happen to products like concrete while they are drying. Concrete tends to shrink, but curl up around the edges, not too dissimilar to what you are experiencing, albeit quite a bit less! I agree with wetting and slicking the backside. Should it stretch you can always cut it square again.

Tandy website shows one type, Tanner's Bond.

I use the Tandy double-sided tape and have experienced a little gumminess, but it didn't affect the look of the stitch. I don't think time has much to do with it but I could be wrong. Tandy has two types of adhesive tape if I remember. One is more aggressive than the other. Don't remember which I use.

Yes, both have generously put up free videos on youtube and I highly recommend them. Hope I can get over to your side of the pond someday. I envy the fact you got to see Nigel's presentation in person. He has helped countless people in their development, most of whom he'll never know.

There are also many types of "boxes", from tubs or pill boxes, boxes with flaps, boxes with nesting lids, etc. I second Mike's recommendation and also recommend you look at Nigel Armitage's youtube video on box stitching. He reveals a special clam made for doing square or rectangular boxes. It is very informative.

1mm Tiger with around 6 or 7 spi sounds like the ticket

Helps to know what kind of seat. Is it a "mattress" saddle? How much of the stitching will show? Post a pic for the best responses. And remember strength is important too, so don't sacrifice durability for looks. Are you machine or hand stitching?

Welcome! As was pointed out, your stitching on the black belt isn't even on the distance from the edge. Invest in an adjustable groover. You don't need to cut a groove, just lightly scratch the leather. All you want is a consistent line. If you have a compass for drawing circles that can work. Wing dividers are like a compass and are the preferred way to scribe a line for stitching. It feels good to make something that actually works, doesn't it?

First of all, you are always going to find someone you believe is more talented than you, so don't sweat it. Second, I agree with Rodney, your work looks great. I think once you get past the cool looks, the wallet is sort of gimmicky. At least to me. Not saying they aren't well thought out, but I'm not a coin purse guy and I am skeptical that the coins are going to lay so nice in the wallet compartment. Maybe they do. Not a fan of their bags at all. So it just goes to show you, taste is very personal and that is why variety is so important. BTW, I play golf. When I hit a good shot, I am very happy. I don't think to myself, "yeah, but Tiger Woods would have hit it better. Don't compare. Aim high but be the best you can be.

I recommend you try Springfield Leather Co. They may not have the hardware but certainly have all of the dyes, glues and goops you need. They have a website where you can check the hardware. Plus, like Weaver, they support this site!

Very helpful templates! I'd not seen them before, thanks for sharing.

First of all, it is helpful to use a set of wing dividers or an adjustable groover to make straight lines that are the same distance from the edge and perpendicular to the edge. Yours seem to vary and are not 100% straight. Having done that, you then begin the punching. You will seldom have a project where the punches fall out perfectly. You will have to cheat somewhere in the line of stitching, resulting in a stitch or two that are either closer together than the rest or slightly farther apart. I prefer closer as I think it is less noticeable. So on the next one, get your lines perfect first, then align the punch on the lines and see if that helps.

Super Sheen is indeed a topcoat. As name suggests it is glossy. It also imparts some water resistance, so that is nice. As far as "don'ts", I don't know of any. I guess it probably shouldn't be used on really oily or waxy leather, but you probably won't want to anyway.

Hard to tell, but it looks like the dye is a bit streaky. I have had luck applying the initial coat in a circular fashion followed by linear strokes. Make sure to wipe the dye in one direction only, no cross-hatch patterns. I then apply carnauba or similar in a circular manner, and buff fairly firmly. This removes any excess and helps with uniformity. Glad your wife could use the project, you had a lot of work in it!

Nigel Armitage's website gives details on virtually all of the popular stitching irons or chisels out there along with SPI, recommended thread size, etc. For a wallet like that, I'd be in the 3mm range on the chisel along with 0.6mm thread. A good start would be the Craft Sha irons with 0.6mm Tiger thread. I would order a 2 prong and a 6 prong for starters. The 2 prong will help going around curves. If you have square corners, review Mr. Armitage's "hinge" technique in his stitching videos.

I have some leather that resembles the one you showed. If I had to guess, I would say it is faux-distressed, meaning it has a finish sprayed onto the surface that makes it look weathered or distressed. Mine has the little black spots and they can be felt, so they must be embossed somehow. The leather I have was sourced at Springfield leather, is about 3-4 oz. max. and is definitely chrome-tanned.

That is similar to what is typically called a rolled edge. Personally I think your leather is thin enough and soft enough to not need an awl, curved or not.