chrisash

To be fair unless you buy from a mainline dealer in your country you can expect little or no support regardless of whatever country you buy in, also returning goods is near impossible due to costs involved,, but thats why main dealers have a healthy price well beyond many hobby budgets At least it is new so spares should be available and no more difficult than old singer 29's a nd their clones that are near impossible as discontinued many decades ago

The bigger knife on the cricut maker states it will cut leather at 2.4 mm though not sure the torque required to cut that on the 3D printer some stepper motors i guess will have more power than others

Just found these handy drag knife video's on YT on how to make your 3D printer cut out leather designs or Acrylic. Far quicker than using Laser tech by the looks of it First one just uses a drag knife available from CRICUT ads on eBay though the one shown is the short knife there is a deeper one available, CRICUT do make a leather cutting model as the "maker" but at £300 this seems a far cheaper option Second video is using a 3D printer with a Dremel attached and used to cut acrylic and other hard surfaces

I often use my Swann Morton super tool on leather, much thicker blade than medical scalpels and the Xacto knives, so don't bend see https://www.scalpelsandblades.co.uk/range_23_swann-morton-supatool-blades-and-handles.php

@Spyros great post, I often think Glitz and that often used phrase " Buy once" that is thrown around every other post, is just fine for the rich to say, but often the lower cost items will do a very good job, although you will never get someone who pays $200 for a stitching chisel to agree that a $50 makes just as good slit in leather. some prefer to spend hours sharpening round knifes other are happy with a Stanley knife each to their own and financial situation

When i was in the navy we tended to used this knife "Green River" and sheaths similar to this one but made from Harness leather, the knife and spike (not this sharpener) were deep in the sheath and held firm, must admit i like your D ring safety measure

There is so much talk about poor blade quality and the need to keep polishing the blade, I do wonder what difference it makes to the average (if there is such a thing) leather worker who cuts out one item maybe a day rather than the professionals who may spend all day cutting out, after all, many but not all would probably just cut out one Wallet, or Bag, maybe a couple of belts in one go so how blunt would a knife get in that process

I disagree. I know the Family type brushed servo is popular in the US i guess mainly because it was the first servo, but the brushless more modern servos give far better torque at low speed and easy to set up, have more control setting available if needed and needle positioning for only a small price extra There is a good video on YouTube comparing the brushed motor to the brushless showing the difference in torque But each to there own i guess

YouTube is your best friend look up things like https://www.youtube.com/c/JHLeather/videos

Afraid Artisan's are just like every other manufacturer on the planet earth, you have to run it as a business and that includes marketing / advertising costs. make up a selection of your goods and try and sell them to a third party like retail shops that show a interest in your product. they then do the marketing / advertising for you but it costs you as you sell at a lower rate so they can make the mark up to cover their overheads Include a label fixed to your good explaining your story on how or why you made and designed this item and you may find the shop customers search you out if they are happy with there purchase from the shop Every retail outlet is full of items they did not make but just brought in to sell and make a few bucks

Have had a 201 for a few years and never had reason to make button holes but must say amazed at that attachment which i never new existed and also found one for pattern stitches as well from the 50's, it says a lot of how clever those guys at singer were in the past. Still keep the 201 as it sounds like poetry in motion when used and no wonder they called it the Rolls Royce of machines back then

Intrigued to find out how you get a 99 or 201 to sew buttonholes, Prey tell

To make the big bucks on anything, it's generally agreed that you need to spend heavily in Marketing to your intended sector, to get people needing to buy your product, and then price is only a minor point This is what the brands attempt to do, from the obvious ones like Hermes, LV and Swiss army knives, some brands are new like say "Superdry" and others like fashion designers who come up with this years fashion and consequently get publicity and talked about If you don't market your brand, you will never get the big bucks, as only very few people know of you and few talk about you to others Lastly dont make one item make three or more at the same time and reduce all the setting up time

I used to do commercial embroidery with Barudan, Brother and Toyota machines and they all could manage up to about 1mm plus a bit of soft leather. the skill is in the design to stagger the stitching holes far enough apart to not perforate the leather and at the same time not ruin the design and then use a very strong stabiliser on the back. When i did it a good few years ago we never used the automatic stitching patterns but maybe now days with companies like Wilcom they might have a settings for using leather i just don't know

Buy a fretsaw and use thin 3 ply

Ebay is your friend for Bonded Nylon thread, size 69 to 138 depending on thickness of leather and if design look wanted also bobbins etc otherwise info@sieck.de / or https://www.sew-europe.co.uk/product-category/parts/singer-parts/singer-29k-29u-parts/ apparently many singer parts fit the Adler

Many if not most starting out buy second-hand industrial machines which are in your price range, have a look on Ebay or other sites, I would guess German sites might have more machines than Danish based upon the population numbers. On EBay just type "Industrial Sewing Machines" On your first post you mention thick thread, most industrials only go up to 138 thread, to use thicker thread you eed a harness type machine which i think would be out of your price range. here is a link to thread sizes https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

241-2 Industrial High speed. Balanced rotating hook. Automatic lubrication. Max. stitch length = 5 1/2 to the inch. For sewing heavy and extra heavy weight fabrics. 16x257 (2270)

Might well be a stupid answer, but how about pressure washing it with water, with the lance held at a angle so the pressure is not directly into the leather but at say 45-60 degrees. Might do less damage than other means

First you need to read this thread through to the end, which will assist your choice

Nice work

One simple check is the foot pedal you use to control the machine speed, on all machines there is a link between the motor and the pedal, and on the pedal the connection is onto a 4-6 inch bar, if you move the connection to the far end of the bar it gives you more sensitive control

Wizz would probably be the best person to ask and have knowledge of the spares availability of the 29-4

I think its for the Riza Papers used to roll the tobacco

Pay the extra and get a more model one or even a new one, they have spares available. though bases are quite valued in the UK and can be sold for anything from £100-200 on there own. I have heard that the Amish community in the US make and sell some spares for the early models at quite expensive prices