TonyV

You can round the corners if you wish. Modify it any way you like and make it your own. Change the dimensions, rearrange pockets, sew th long line. It's your template now, do what you want. I think those top corners might look better radiused.

You need both. Definitely. But a 12 oz requires less work to use IMO.

Nice! I've tried that same pattern with mules foot stamp but I'm not nearly that good.

I dye 1st, then NF to refresh the leather from the drying effect of the dye. The oil acts like a resist, so I would wait another day or so, then try re-dyeing it by hand. I don't know if you can save it as smoothly as you want to, but you have a learning opportunity here.

yes, that's a bit pricier than the Craftool tools. But Barry King has a strong, well-earned reputation for very high quality and excellent results. As for whether to antique or not, totally your choice. Use a couple practice pieces to determine what it looks like with or without antique.

I sometimes pull the needles out through the layers at the last stitch, tie a square knot very close and tuck it in between the layers, then tap the leather to make the knot disappear. It's invisible, there is no glue and square knot is unlikely to come undone. It doesn't work on all projects, but a sheath is a good candidate.

I like your idea of saving the rawhide. That's some tough stuff. Whacking a shader with a 120 y.o. mallet sounds like fun. OTH, if you do decide to replace any rawhide pieces, you could use some rawhide dog treats. Moisten it in water just until it's pliable, but don't soak it too much, you don't want it soggy (sort of like casing leather) then cut to shape, remembering that it will shrink as it dries. You should be able to restore any damaged pieces that way. But either way, I think the rawhide stack might benefit from some glue or shellac.

Nice quiver, and a great start. Now comes the bow case, wrist guard, finger tabs or gloves and any decorative or other functional items you heart desires. Leather fletching, perhaps?

Envious Recovering from shoulder surgery, I won't be able to lift a long gun for a few months. I did take a grouse with my .22LR revolver a couple weeks ago tho.

Brands, cuts and bruises all give leather a certain character which some people admire., while others abhor. To each his own, utilize the scars to good effect and you will come closer to pleasing most of them. Chrisash, ear tags have been used in N. America for decades. And branding has not been totally abolished in Europe. Tatooing inside the lip is also used here, as well as RFID chips, especially on high value stock. Ear notching is still used on some stock, as well.

Nice patina! A well-used article was much appreciated by your late MIL. Please accept my condolences as well. I made a similar cup for my daughter for her graduation. The box stitch was a learning experience.

Yes, great option, but handsewn looks so much cleaner and professional. Definitely bespoke.

My thought as well. My 1st idea was vinegarroon, until I read the OP Pro Dye and NFO. Does pro dyed in the use some ferrous compound? So if not that, is there some stray piece of steel embeded in the leather? Anything ferrous in the thread?

Love it!

Nice quiver Chuck! Happy shooting.

Are you sanding the edges before burnishing?

I like it!

Quite a unique collection and exquisite work!

The tracing lines will mostly disappear within your tooling, or can be worked into it. I have fouled up tracings before and simply traced in what I wanted over the same piece. My mistakes were only noticeable when I looked for them. Give it a shot. At the very least you'll have a good practice piece.

Beautiful work!

Horse butt, I'm told, is about the best for holsters. Your strip size limits the size of the holsters you could make, though. That weight would be good for lined holsters.

If you want to stain it black, first stain it blue. The whole thing. Then put black on top of the blue. It will give you a deeper black tone. Find an inconspicuous spot to test it on first. Bonus pint, you get to utilize the spilled ink!

Beautiful dress holsters, worthy of any celebration.

That's much better stitching than any I've done on my machine. Almost makes me want to try to practice with it more, maybe get some decent work out of it.

I've found that adjusting the stitch length is how to use it on thicker leather. Longer stitch length for thick material, short stitch for thin stuff. The stitch control is that little bolt on the underside the arm. A little turn is a fairly big adjustment. I can't sew good straight lines with the patcher, so no good for presentable leather work, but I do use it for repairing various things, from my denim jeans to the dog's seat cover in my truck, a pair of sneakers, etc.. In that regard it has actually paid for itself and its place under the bench. But I have made a few little things, a hatchet sheath, a key fob a knife sheath. They came out ok, just not ready for prime time. I don't believe it is intended for production, only repair. And for that, it works just fine (once you go through the learning curve and tinkering phase). Even my lousy hand stitching is better than the patcher, not because it doesn't sew, but because it is so difficult to control the work piece with one hand while the other hand is cranking the handle. If it were motorized I would have both hands available to manage the work piece and it would perform much better.