LatigoAmigo

That image is in a .jfif format, and I think this site prefers images be in a .jpeg format, like this...

Three phase power comes in different voltages and configurations, so if the voltage is higher than what your machine is rated for that could be the problem.

It's a mini, roughly 12 x 5 x 8 in. Here it is next to its predecessor.

You can resolve that issue with a fume extractor. I picked one up about a year ago for about $2k and it has performed flawlessly.

I just finished this mini handbag and am wondering if it might market better to men or to women. So tell me what you think… is this bag a murse or is it a purse? Any comments will be appreciated.

I use "neoprene sponge foam rubber" (from Amazon) and always tack it down with glue first so it stays in place, because when I sew the leather pieces together it puts a lot of pressure on the rubber. Here I've used 1/8 inch thick foam rubber on a cross-body strap (bag still under construction).

@scrapyarddog Lovely color and a great design. Very nice work. Can you share what the inside looks like?

"Leather Braiding" by Bruce Grant was combined with "How to Make Cowboy Horse Gear" to create "Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding." Here is a PDF version of that book for your enjoyment. Check out page 68 for starters. Encyclopedia_of_Rawhide_and_Leather_Braiding.pdf

Because there are so many types of leather and tanning processes, there could be more than one correct answer to your multiple choice questions. If you seriously want a response to these (too) many questions, you might try to target them to the various categories on this forum.

I'm intrigued. Why is the source of this thread so important?

Golden chips.

What I like about Illustrator for pattern making is the "offset path" feature along with the ability to create my own pattern brushes, plus I find the layers feature invaluable. You might be able to "buy" a copy, but I have only found Illustrator available by subscription.

Looks like you've tried it all. Tokonole gives me a smooth, sealed edge, and I've learned to be happy with the results, so it works for me. This is the foot of a bag made with California Latigo from The Hide House.

Warm up the oil (I set the bottle of neatsfoot oil in a pan of warm water for 20 minutes) before you apply it, then only apply in light coats... you don't want to saturate the leather. Then give the oil a few days to soak in and work its magic. You should see good results.

From their website: We’re very excited to announce that we now carry Toko Pro! A new edge slicking and burnishing compound that’s nearly identical in comparison to Tokonole.

In the last ten years I've used chrome-tanned leather almost exclusively, I've had to deal with this issue. You can get some of the heavier weights to take an application of beeswax, and it can look pretty good, but the look doesn't last long. Chrome-tanned leather is not absorbent like veg-tan.

So much work with such great results. You asked for a critique, and so I will say (although this is a really small detail) that the applique used to attach the side strap really caught my eye because the start and finish make the braiding look incorrect. But overall... a really beautiful saddle.

I was thinking about your project. I've done a little braiding, and found this "Easy Braiding Soap Recipe" I thought you might be interested in. It came from Australian Plaiters and Whipmakers Association website (which may no longer exist). You will need: A pot, a spoon, and your stove A cheese grater One (standard size) 4.5oz bar of pure Ivory soap One and a half cups of water One pound of lard A sturdy container with a lid that seals (to store your braiding soap in after you’ve made it) 1. Grate the bar of soap into the pot with the water slowly, over medium to medium low heat, while stirring often. Bring the water to a low boil then back down again several times while stirring in order to dissolve the soap as completely as possible into the water. 2. Add the lard and stir it in until it is creamy and there are no lumps left. Be careful at this step to not let the solution boil. 3. Carefully pour the mixture into your storage container. Continue stirring your plaiting soap about once every half hour until it starts to cool enough that it becomes difficult to stir. Then seal the lid on, and wait overnight for the mixture to become firm. When you are not using your braiding soap, always keep the lid on.

Oh yeah, you do have a choice. But if you pick Zen don't fall asleep at the wheel.

Weaving/braiding/stitching can become a meditation, something to look forward to. It can bring peace.

As long as the finished look is what you are going for, sounds like you know what works best.

A hard question to answer without knowing more about the product. I hand sew and find that sometimes I've pulled the thread "one to many times" and have had it break unexpectedly. You'll probably have to waste some with a little trial and error. Some hand sewers add wax to their thread to keep in from fraying and to keep the friction to a minimum. Of course the size of the stitching holes will factor in along with the temper of the leather. Good luck.

Not sure if this will help, but I found this store locator on Jacquard's website. https://www.jacquardproducts.com/retail-stores

Looks great!

Unless of course you could afford a diode laser. CO2 Laser--$3,500; Diode Laser--$35,000.