doubleh

I bought an Osbourn round knife earlier this year. The factory edge was much too blunt to put a good edge on so I clamped it in a vise, using soft jaws of course, and went to work on it with a flat file. When I got it filed down to the bevel I wanted I used diamond hones followed by a ceramic one to put an edge on it and finishing up with stropping with red rouge. It will slice printer paper with ease now.

I say it is whatever floats YOUR boat. Stamping leaves mine sitting very low in the water but that's just me. If you like it go for it. I am working on a border stamped holster, the first ever for me. I am not too enthused about it as it's been in the works for well over a month now but I did have a respiratory bug to deal with during that time. Maybe sometime this week, or next, I'll get back to it.

Great little box.. Woodworking is another of my hobbies and I like seeing nice work.

I agree with chuck.. No need for me to elaborate more on the subject.

It depends. I use the end nippers some and other times grab the head of the rivet with a pair of parallel jawed pilers and drill out the back side. The nippers can sometimes leave a mark. Nippers are fast way.

#3 on what is a jerk needle. That is a new one for me.

I use Chicago Cutlery kitchen shears. I believe my wife got them at Walmart.

Nice work. I have never done an inlay but bought a lizard skin last year. It's 'laying' but not "in". One of these days I'll make up my mind what I want to do with it.

Those are NICE.

I have done the same but either outside where the breeze would carry the overspray away from me or a canister mask when inside. I have asthma so I'm not taking any chances.

It looks pretty good but to my eye it would be better if your inlay followed the outer curves of the holster. Also it appears that you drilled the holes. Drilling is OK if you then run a stabbing awl thru the holes to make them diamond shaped. That is what I do with thick leather. It makes it much easier and and you can't tell the holes were drilled.

WOW is my input. Color me jealous. I used to draw but essential tremors has taken that ability away even with medication. I can still do fairly well with a swivel knife but I am seriously slow. I don't know that I could have managed just the swivel cuts in 9 hours. Your daughter is a lucky person and should be VERY proud of that.

Looks good to me and if the customer is happy I would be too.

Since all the leatherwork I do is tooled expansion is what I get. The only thing I ever dye is a holster and I don't know if it causes them to shrink or not as they get dunked in water and then a saran wrapped gun shoved down in them and let dry.

Hey, that is cool. Looks real.

My personal opinion is that vaseline has place on leather. You can fix your swivel knife problem with simply applying less downward pressure while cutting.

Cute little thing.

It need sealing or the pissants are going to carry it off.

That is a lot of stamps. I glued some left over two-by stuff together, ran it through the table saw to clean it up, drilled holes in it, and glued a piece of 1/2" plywood to the bottom to close the holes. Then I applied two coats of Min-Wax poly varnish to it and it's held up for many years.

12 ounce thickness, it certainly should keep your pants in place. I don't know that I would like one that heavy duty.

It would be resolene for me. I have never used the leather balm but know that resolene will do the job.

I was going to recommend Pliobond cement as I used to use it to glue asbestos gaskets and then the material that replaced the asbestos to the cement lining inside steel pipe used used in waterflood lines in the oilfield. This is some seriously good cement. I haven't purchased any in years and just looked it up and it's prices. I am going to stick with Barge's and Weldwood contact cement. Neither have ever failed me in leatherwork and both are much more affordable than Pliobond.

Looks good.

Thumbs up on your project.