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PastorBob

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Everything posted by PastorBob

  1. I have done it for affect. I normally just slick 'em. Less work and I like the look of a nice slicked edge.
  2. Love that pebbling on the outer piece. One of the hardest things to carve is a perfect circle. Yours looks pretty good. Nice job.
  3. yes. It is entirely personal preference. TG and Tokonole have the same results. I find Tokonole works best. YMMV. Edge Kote completely covers the leather. I use that if I have a bad seam or uneven finish to hide the imperfections. Again YMMV.
  4. Looking good so far. Can't wait to see the progress.
  5. Make sure to share your cover when finished. Would be great to see it.
  6. I got the TG first and used it on edges of veg tan leather, burnishing with a hand burnisher. When I started using exotics and chrome tan leather, I switched to Tokonole, using a swatch of canvas to burnish. Now I primarily use either the tokonole or just plain dye with a hand burnisher, then finish up with canvas. Just seems easier than having to apply edge kote. I didn't have much luck with it.
  7. Yep. Before I even burnish. Sometimes I burnish just using a dye. Sometimes with Tragacanth Gum, sometimes with Tokonole. As for the corners, I bought a cheap set of radius knives from Amazon. they are cheap and seem to work okay. I have also traced around a skoal can, then cut the corner with a Japanese skiving knife or utility knife. Either way, I can't get them perfect so I sand them down on my combo sander I purchased from Harbor freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-sanders/stationary-belt-disc-sanders/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-61728.html). Below is a video describing the method I use when cutting free-hand (skoal can method) Not affiliated with the video...informational purposes only. Hope this helps.
  8. The second image appears to be something used on the bottom of a purse or briefcase as feet, to prevent the leather from contacting the ground.
  9. Beautifully done. Great job.
  10. The best source comes from the master artisan, Al Stohlman. Get Volume 2 below. Can order from Springfield Leather or on Amazon. It shows you exactly how to do it.
  11. Thanks for sharing the LOOONG process of learning with us. It can be frustrating, especially as you get started. Been there, done that. Still have quite a few projects going to the scrap pile from time to time. Great work. As Dwight mentioned, the edges and stitching lines are what most folks notice. I will take the top piece of a project and make sure the edges are good and straight and that all corners have the proper radius on them and the bottom piece it attaches to is larger (cut it a little bigger). At that moment, I will punch through the top layer with my stitching forks. I then glue it together, punch the holes in the bottom layer using the holes punched in the top layer as a guide. Then I will cut/sand the bottom piece edges to match the top. When done sanding the edges, it looks like one piece of thick leather. You can't see the seams between them. Then I do the slicking. Hope this helps. Wish I could afford a pair of Ipod Pros, if so, i would have you make me a case for them. Great work!!!!
  12. Welcome to the forum! Typically the imported natural veg-tan leather is much lighter in color. They add additional chemicals during the tanning process to speed it up. It is typically less expensive than, say, the US tanned leather. You will find that tanneries such as Hermann Oak and Wickett / Craig leather has a tannish color to it and appears to be much richer. The imports are normally very slick on their hide surface, where the others will have a little more texture. In my early days, I purchased the imports to save a little money. It is fine for small projects and you can make it work for carving and stamping. When I took the plunge into the better leather, it was truly obvious in how it worked when carving/ stamping vs. the import. In a nut shell, color really doesn't determine the quality, it is more about the tanning process. Also, if leather is stored where UV rays can get to it, that will darken the leather as well. Hope this helps.
  13. That's awesome. I am sure mama loved it. Was it any more difficult to stitch than veg tan?
  14. Awesome to see that level of talent and skill. Just amazing! Quite the tool selection as well. Those boots will last 2 lifetimes.
  15. Go to this link. It is the section of the forum for listing equipment. Good luck with sale. https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/79-machinery-cuttingleatherworking/
  16. Wow. That's is a piece of art all by itself. Love the contrasting colors of the walnut and maple. Nicely done.
  17. Welcome from SW Missouri. You will find much useful information here.
  18. Another one to add to the to-do list. Some impressive results. Thanks for sharing!
  19. Beautiful! nice attention to detail. Now I need to by another 1911 before making my own double holster. Decisions, decisions...
  20. Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.
  21. I always wet mold mine. Haven't tried it without.
  22. Just looked up distance from house...Sheridan is closer by 100 miles, coming in at a 15 hour drive and 1100 miles. Sounds like a bit more than a long weekend. Would love to go someday. Glad you had a good time and were able to meet some of the legends in the field.
  23. Thanks @Tugadude. I am familiar with that one, just not the one he described. This one is useful too. I just don't do much letter stamping...I normally carve the letters.
  24. This is one of my favorites...typically less than $10 each Alec Bradley Prensado - Robusto size
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