RockyAussie

Honest I wasn............well...... read your subject heading!!!!!!What about a nice level vacume table to hold the leather all down flat and an electric wood planer suspended on an adjustable drop down ...........No i reckon your idea should work OK

Nuther idea... Get that blade and put in some elongated holes about 3/8" to 1/2" long like in an electric knife and set one end up to attach to an electric jigsaw. I think that could be easier and prolong the need for sharpening a lot but would still have to be taken out for sharpening occasionally. Should we patent this? Ha bugger everyone knows now

Well If you got that amount of time on yr hands..... why not get a bandsaw and turn it on its side, nock the teeth off and sharpen it, pully up the hand crank on the wringer. Remember to leave room for a strap folder to feed through the wringer as well. Ha whala. Honest I would do it sept I already got 2 bandknife splitters.

Hi AngieSA, I believe I have one of these in storage. The punch section you see is interchangeable with a lot of other different punches. It operates a bit like a sewing machine and you offer the leather up and just sew along punching holes. One I have does brogue holes (1large and 2small holes). You need to get a cardboard tape made about 1mm thick and 12 or 13mm wide I think and feed it under the gaps in the base. This is for the punches to punch into but not right through and it feeds along with the job.The brass coloured thing adjusts the length of gap from memory. If you need some pics or whatever let me know.

Hi Darren, What machines does this fit onto and how many$? I know that I have found the roller style much better behaved and less need for maintenance than the solid type of feet.

When you put your insole down to the mid sole lift the toe up so it wants to stay up before glueing down the sole. The lack of flex in the sole is I think likely to be an issue that transfers to the straps digging in to much.That 2nd sole should be soft and flexi if even used at all. Look at a well worn sandal and imitate that shape a bit is ideal.

Hi Alex, I am curious if you sorted this problem out. I had not seen this post before. I have several of these mostly in storage but if you need I could have a look a try and let you know how. If it is still not working right please tell me what is happening when you slowly wind it over and if you can send me a picture of the front with needle to hook relationship.Note: a big thing that makes them stitch badly is when the wear foot that the needle goes through is badly worn and angled.This will give a lot of misses in the stitching.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. (unless you wrote those thousand words I'd reckon).

For the sharpening if you have a belt sander or even a disc sander you can do something like in this link following, only difference I do is follow with a hit on the rag wheel and Tripoli polish. Round hole ones only of course.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLHKVj6na6g

Looks in pretty good nick for something of that age. I had one similar once, maybe still do somewhere.The 2 lock nuts have an extended barrel on and are probably done up. As these wear down they can get a little grabby and backing it out may help a bit but check there is no slippery looking bits on the clutch and fine sandpaper off if there is.

How about a couple of different size dowels to make a hefty sam brown stud sort of thing. Just a thought and doesn't need a router just a drill and a sander I'd say.

Sorry Dan that sure is a mystery. The only thing I can think if it is for any use with leather is pressing and rolling up a join seam and the piece at front is to push harder with the other thumb.

Looks very nice. Somethin wrong here I'm starting to think I want one.

Hi YinTx , having read through the link from Bill, I thought best to mention the fraying edges that let most of this construction down normally. Years ago I made up fabric to not fray by spraying some watered down PVA wood glue onto the back of taffeta fabric. This worked Ok, but after a lot of searching we found in Italy a fabric manufacturer that makes up for many leading brand names called Tabru. If you decide to at some stage go up the fabric route here is the link. Address to Nino Aiello and ask for some polyster Tes Jacq for use in wallets. They are normally good for samples. Check if they have an agent there first.http://www.tabru.eu/en/company.html

YinTx Now I've seen your pocket pics I think your giving yourself a fair bit of grief going right to particularly the outer edge. I for years have done fabric lining in the pockets but keep in mind if using leather pocket lining that is stitched to the top as well, there is no need for the pockets to all go to the outer edge. They hold cards not coin. If the back longest pocket goes to the edge all the rest will be contained anyway. Hope that helps the stitching probs in future.

Thank you Gritty Rustic for your contributions with regards to marketing, but I'm curious about what the purpose is in expressing your feeling on a world wide forum about a member that many members use free patterns and advice from - and as I see often - thank them for. We mostly all have something to give here, and to start something like this is not very nice for the value of some free advertising I think. I assume that is what this is for or ......................

Hi Maia, in the past I have done shoe repairing and also shoe making and and now do mostly leathergoods production. Although I still own a couple of large finishing machines I have found this Multitool sander to be very useful. The 2 in the pictures below I have put into production, get 2 or 3 days a week full on sanding and they give very little trouble. If you were starting off I believe you could save a lot of money but trying this method. Only thing is you have to make up yourself a method of extracting the dust. I have been thinking of getting another new one a little more advanced and posting a how to do it on here . If you are interested to see more please let me know. Best regards Brian.

These letter's are pressed in normally with the aid of an embossing press and the letters are held in a holder normally with screws. These would normally be supplied with the machine. Here is a couple of example pictures.Last pic shows the magnesium block method.

Also Josh if you have not already check out this link https://ohiotravelbag.com/catalog/handbag-hardware/clasps---and---locks.aspx#f=&p=1&s=

Not recent like in maybe 10 years. I checked with a supplier here Marish Accessories this morning and he hasn't done any Amiet in about 10 years or so. That's Australia mate, They want to now build up manufacturing and there's very little suppliers except for the cheap junk. We need more competition soooo help where you can. A lot of hardware we get out of Japan but it's not cheap, if I had an idea of the product style you're wanting to make and numbers I may be able to get some samples in our next order.

Yes Amiet may be OK, if you like that check then this link http://www.homalocks.co.uk/catalogues.html Hope that helps Brian

This looks to me like they have used as you said letterpress types. The ones shown are either burne in on a black foil has been used.If you want to see some pictures of any lettersets let me know. this link may be helpful - http://www.belltype.com/index.html

This is a method I developed some time ago for marking lines onto firm veg tan leather. It shows how I convert a clicker knife made up for the purpose and by doing so am able to line mark the product on an average of 15 to 20 seconds per piece. The following pdf file shows most of the steps to make.The two pictures show examples of the end results. Line marking with a clicker press method.pdf

BTW your advice on the rectangles and sliders at the Buckleguy is spot on. Re the extension method it helps when people are buying as presents as they can get it shortened quite easily. And for getting older and slower, well so long as your getting wiser that's OK .

Best of luck and I'm up in Rocky. You have tried Maclace I assume?