Northmount

Where the outside plate says 220, I would say it is very likely single phase. If it said 208, then I would say it is 3 phase. These are standardized descriptions. For the equipment to be sold in North America, it had to meet these standards. A 220 VAC motor will have quite low winding resistance including the starting winding, so would approach 0 ohms. Your multimeter should be on the lowest resistance range when you check it. Just went out to the workshop and checked resistance on a 3 hp 220 VAC compressor motor, 1.4 ohms. On a 1.5 hp table saw motor, it is 1.5 ohms. You really can't tell much about the motor other than having continuity or not by measuring resistance. A single phase 220 VAC motor will run when wired across 2 phases of a 208 VAC 3 phase system. It is well within the voltage level tolerances. I have seen many 220 single phase connected to 208 (unit heater fans, pumps, etc.). However, that is not a concern here since you will not be connecting it to a 3 phase system. Just some added info for you to digest. Tom

Spar varnish is normally a very good varnish. Suitable for exteriors that are subject to some moisture and to sun. Tom

You got bad varnish. Varnish may have a strong chemical solvent smell, but not rotten. Needs to cure at 65 F or warmer. Tom

Or use wood bleach, or barkeeps friend, or oxalic acid (all the same stuff). A little stronger than lemon juice. I cleaned up an evil smell from some cheap leather with oxalic acid. Tom

What was the resistance (ohms) between the black and blue? I assume you had the power switch turned on? If so, the only choice is black and blue for 220 VAC. From the 3 phase circuit diagram, it appears the hydraulic pump runs continuously and that the push buttons (item 9) and possibly microswitch 8 on the handle activates the solenoid (10) to switch the hydraulic valve to provide force to actuate the clicker ram. Switch 8 is the end switch to stop the ram at end of stroke. On your home/shop wiring, the 3 conductors from the breaker panel are typically red, white and black plus bare ground. White is neutral and is not needed for 220 VAC. Red is 110, white is 0, black is 110. So the voltage between black and red is 220 VAC. Tom

This is only a shortcut link from your computer. Not the pdf. Please retry. Tom

Use with the matte side up. Pencil or pen works better on the matte side. Shiny side against the leather. Tracing or drafting velum works nice too. Got a part roll when they switched to plotters for drafting printouts. No cost was nice. Tom

The diagram on page 13 of the pdf is for a three phase motor. Item 1 is a manual switch. Item 2 is a thermal overload breaker. When you hook up a 3 phase motor, you hook each of the phase connections to the 3 phase supply. Then do a bump test to see if the motor rotation is correct. If it is not, then you reverse any 2 of the 3 connections to change the direction of rotation. You can prove the continuity with a multimeter set on resistance (ohms). Resistance will be less than 500 ohms. Turn switch 1 on. Test the resistance across the wires. Clip one lead from your multimeter to one of the wires and keep it on that wire. Test the resistance to the other 2 wires. If there is continuity in both of these tests, and the resistance values are relatively the same, you have a 3 phase motor. Tom

What is the info on the motor nameplate? Would help to know if it is three phase or not. Sounds like the cordset is using European wire colours. What kind of plug was on the end, or is it supposedly setup to be wired directly into a box? Tom

Bar C, you have a couple people interested in this equipment. See above posts. Tom

Look at Will Ghormley's website. http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingHOGRig.html Scroll way down til you get to his rust tank and read through it. Tom

Take a look at Ohio Travel Bag, called key plates https://ohiotravelbag.com/shop/search.aspx?term=key plate#f=&p=1&s= These are not removable, but are close to what you are looking for. I think the removable ones fell out of favour due to loosing keys when they loosen up a bit. Tom

Glovers needles are triangular point, harness needles are round point. The triangular shape has sharp edges and that is what is cutting your thread when doing saddle stitching with them. Get harness needles. Tom

Do a search here for rawhide mauls. There are a couple threads about making your own. You need to take the maul apart, figure out where and how to remove the nuts from the bolt. Then all you do is cut a stack of washers basically and put it back together. These other threads will give you more info. Tom

Newspaper ink smears and leaves marks on leather. Then you have to clean it off! Tom

What do you have? Tom

I've used pine, fir plywood, etc. Moisture is not going to change the shape/size all that much. Plywood might de-laminate over repeated usage. You don't need a lot of pressure, so that shouldn't be a problem. Leather does not normally need to be saturated with water. Wood with rough grain will emboss the leather surface, which you may or may not like. Clamping against a smooth laminate will keep the leather surface smooth. You can varnish or wax wood to reduce the amount of moisture it will absorb. You can also use high or low density polyethylene, like kitchen cutting boards. Or UHMW Polyethylene. You will still need some hand or power tools to cut and shape the material. Wood is easier to cut, carve and sand to the desired shape for molds. Handy hand tools would include a coping saw, hand saw, rasp, mallet and chisel, sandpaper, ... Tom

Reduce the size of your picture, then you should be able to post it. Lots of links here and elsewhere on the web about reducing your picture size. Search them out and give it a try. Tom

Their is someone in the Montana area the flies falcons and makes hoods. http://lchoods.weebly.com/about-us.html Tom

I'm surprised. Sold for less than $50 when I bought mine. Tom

Sold by Tandy 5 to 10 years ago. Nice large diameter barrel. Nicely shaped yoke, easy on the fingers. Bought it because of the yoke and barrel diameter. Not because of the fancy work! Tom

more switchable magnets http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=56000&cat=1,43838,47843 Tom

Sitting on the fence doesn't get you anywhere. Pick a machine in your price range that is in good condition and is suitable for your work and fly with it. There is always something better out there, but in the meantime, you will have a machine to use and build your business with. With the experience you gain, you will be in a better position next time to decide what is best for your next acquisition. And you will have had some cash coming in along the way. To me, the important part is servo motor and possibly a reduction pulley set if you are sewing thicker and harder temper leather. And a cylinder arm is more versatile than a flat bed. Tom

If you are taking an LTO, there is no need to pay out early. Better to take the tax write-off and keep the cash you have in hand to keep your business going. Being able to write-off leasing costs is only beneficial if your business is making enough money to use the write-off. If you are just a small part-time business, hardly making it pay for itself, there is no benefit to LTO. Get a good positive cash-flow if you really want to be in business. Tom

Edit is only available for a short period of time, so after it has timed out, just do as you have, adding a post to the thread. No stitch groove for thin leathers. Probably max #69 thread with max #14 needle size. You can get leather tape, or double sided seam tape so you can turn the edges instead of trying to crease. You should be able to use a home sewing machine since you are dealing with very thin material. Maybe 15 stitches per inch. Too close together and the leather will rip along the perforations. You should experiment with some small pieces first. If the fur gives you a problem, you might need to shave the fur along the stitch lines. Do a search here for sewing fur. You will find several posts. Tom